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Cost of molar tooth burring

Mapes

New Kit
Hi there, I am looking after a rescue bun (cross breed of possibly dutch or lionhead, approx 2-3years old, probably male, vet wasn't sure). Took him for annual vaccinations yesterday to a main highstreet vet (UK) and during his health check, the vet noticed a lower molar is slightly long (no soreness/redness or infection). I've been quoted £300-400 to have it corrected under GA. Most pet insurance I've looked at doesn't cover teeth trimming/burring. This seems a lot, especially as they've warned me he could need it repeated anywhere between every 3-6 months!! I have only been caring for him for 2 months with no knowledge of his previous medical history. He isn't the biggest hay eater/fussy with hay despite having lots of access but is happily eating everything else. Only sign of a tooth problem is he occasionally grinds his teeth. Do you think I've been over-quoted or is that just the price of it? I want to do what's best for him but as a first time rabbit owner, I'm nervous about committing if at some point I can no longer keep up with the £1.6k potential annual dental fees. Any help/reassurance would be hugely appreciated as feeling a bit lost.
 
Welcome to RU - I'm glad you found us. I'm pleased you've taken this bun on & are researching how to give him/her the best life.

I'd say the above outlined by your vet is the worst case scenario - yes some bunnies do require very regular dental work but they are in a minority. I've had many a bunny health check where minor dental spurs have been noted but never actually needed treatment. It will need tight monitoring...looking for a change in what he eats (or won't eat) & poop quality. It may be your bun hasn't found the hay of his dreams - obviously important for dental wear & digestive health. grass is good for teeth too if you can get any. What else does he eat?

I think the estimate you got for a dental is high, especially from a vet unable to sex your rabbit. If you can share your geographical option members may have recommendations for you. Its beneficial (though sometimes difficult) to find a vet experienced with rabbits or an exotics vet as they are the ones with a decent amount of rabbit training- regular vets have very little time dedicated to rabbit care on their syllabus
 
That quote does seem to be very steep. The intervals between dentals can vary a lot - from a few weeks to once a year, ime. It's worth getting it done before there are any other symptoms caused by that tooth. Weight loss and gut stasis are fairly common when a rabbit can't eat properly. Hay / grass is the best option for tooth health. I would look at slowly reducing / removing other things from the diet if they are not contributing to the tough fibres that are needed to keep the teeth worn down.

Is he your rabbit or does he belong to the rescue still? If he belongs to the rescue and you are fostering, they would be responsible for the bill. They would also have their own preferred vets. If the vet you used can't determine the gender of an adult rabbit, I would query how rabbit savvy they are.
 
Firstly I would strongly advise that you try to find a more Rabbit Savvy Vet. I would not want a Vet who could not determine the sex of a three year old Rabbit to be treating my Rabbit. If you are in the UK there is some advice about how to find a Rabbit Savvy Vet here:


With regards to Dentals, how frequently they might be needed will vary on an individual case basis. Things that can influence when/if further Dentals are required are whether the Dental problem is related to genetics, Rabbits that have flat faces ( brachycephalic) are more prone to developing Dental problems. Diet- Rabbits should have a diet that is at least 85% hay. So if the Rabbit is a poor hay eater we need to consider why. Are we feeding too many pellets for example.

Vet Practices all have their own pricing rates. The amount you have been quoted sounds to be high, but I have heard of people being charged a similar amount.

No insurance company will cover a pre-existing condition ie one that has occurred prior to the policy being taken out.
 
Thank you so much for your replies. My sister took him on from a rescue centre. Her guinaepigs didn't get on with him very much and she hasn't got the space to keep them separate, so we stepped in to help with the hopes of him being happy here with us. He scoffs down appropriate leafy veg, and rabbit nuggets but ignores the Timothy Hay mix despite presenting it in various ways (inside cardboard tubes/wicker balls, in a feeder etc). He's currently eating a softer hay mixed with herbs as of this afternoon, so that's promising!! We are in Cardiff in the UK. I have looked up rabbit savvy vets on the rabbit welfare website today so will get in touch with them asap. He's an incredibly friendly and chilled out bun, so hate the thought of him being in pain! Will get a second opinion as need to trust the vet will do a good job (I had a chincilla die under GA when I was younger so I'm a bit wary unless it's necessary and would like the vet to be confident with rabbits!). Thanks again for your replies x
 
Thank you so much for your replies. My sister took him on from a rescue centre. Her guinaepigs didn't get on with him very much and she hasn't got the space to keep them separate, so we stepped in to help with the hopes of him being happy here with us. He scoffs down appropriate leafy veg, and rabbit nuggets but ignores the Timothy Hay mix despite presenting it in various ways (inside cardboard tubes/wicker balls, in a feeder etc). He's currently eating a softer hay mixed with herbs as of this afternoon, so that's promising!! We are in Cardiff in the UK. I have looked up rabbit savvy vets on the rabbit welfare website today so will get in touch with them asap. He's an incredibly friendly and chilled out bun, so hate the thought of him being in pain! Will get a second opinion as need to trust the vet will do a good job (I had a chincilla die under GA when I was younger so I'm a bit wary unless it's necessary and would like the vet to be confident with rabbits!). Thanks again for your replies x

Rabbits and Guinea Pigs should not be kept together, so it’s just as well that you now have the Rabbit😀. Not only is there a risk that the Rabbit might accidentally injure the Guinea Pigs, the two species also have different ways of communicating.Also, Rabbits carry a bacteria in their nasal passages (Bordetella) which might not cause clinical disease in the Rabbit if it were to be passed on to a Guinea Pig it could be very serious, it can cause fatal pneumonia.Rabbits need a companion of their own kind 😀

I would suggest you bookmark this site as there is a vast amount of information relating to the care of Rabbits

 
Rabbits and Guinea Pigs should not be kept together, so it’s just as well that you now have the Rabbit😀. Not only is there a risk that the Rabbit might accidentally injure the Guinea Pigs, the two species also have different ways of communicating.Also, Rabbits carry a bacteria in their nasal passages (Bordetella) which might not cause clinical disease in the Rabbit if it were to be passed on to a Guinea Pig it could be very serious, it can cause fatal pneumonia.Rabbits need a companion of their own kind 😀

I would suggest you bookmark this site as there is a vast amount of information relating to the care of Rabbits

Amazing thank you! Yes, I think they all made it very clear to each other and to my sister that they were not going to put up with each other! Thoroughly enjoying learning more about rabbits, he has such a character already!
 
I have my mini lop rabbit. He’s only 6 months old and he already had his first spurs when he was 5 months (month ago) and now he’s grown them back. Him being a mini lop I strongly think that this is because of his jaw plus he doesn’t eat as much hay as my other two rabbits. I used to give him Alfalfa hay, now turn to 50% Timothy 1st cut and Orchard hay. But still spurs are back. I have been quoted £420 for GA and teeth burr. I’m worried that this will now will happen every moth and we just can’t afford £420. I’m not sure what to do. The last thing you want is put only 6 month rabbit down because of the spurs. I’m honestly crying even thinking about it.
 
I am sorry you are dealing with this in a young bunny.

I am not in UK, so cannot compare costs. However, I had a dental bunny who was a Netherland Dwarf rabbit who needed dentals, though his started to be every six months when he was a a few years old and as he aged they became more frequent.

You may need to reduce your bunny's pellets/nuggets to encourage him to eat more hay. However, eating hay requires a different chewing action than eating pelleted food,/nuggets so eating hay may be uncomfortable for him. Regular pain meds may be an option to encourage more chewing.

Some members on here have had teeth extracted, though I never pursued this option.
Conscious burring can be done depending on the lication of the teeth requiring burring and the bunny's disposition.

Sending vibes you can find a solution.
 
Flat faced rabbits and lop ears do make a rabbit have a predisposition towards dental issues, I'm afraid. 5 months is very young for it all to start though, so I would assume there's a history of this from his breeding line.

I would also suggest that £400 a time is quite expensive, but it has been about 10 years since I had any rabbit dentals done. I would suggest asking for a referral to a rabbit specialist. They may be able to offer more advice and to tweak how the teeth are burred so that intervals between treatments can be extended. Diet is also very important. Long, tough fibres in grass / hay are what rabbit teeth are designed to eat, and to keep them worn down as they constantly grow. Getting him eating a hay-only diet may help, if he's able to tolerate it. Keep an eye on his weight on a weekly basis to make sure he's eating enough. It can really help to reduce the spur formation and is definitely worth trying.

The interval between dentals can change over time, especially as he is young and still growing. My rabbits were at the older end when they had dental treatment, and the interval between gradually got longer - from about every 6 weeks to maybe twice a year.

A referral to a rabbit dental specialist would need x-rays doing initially so they can fully assess the teeth and roots to determine the best way forward with treatment. Removal of cheek teeth is a very specialist job and has other consequences as it changes how the other teeth grind together. Front teeth (incisors) can be removed if necessary, and rabbits cope well with this with just minor modifications to how their food is presented, but it sounds like the spurs are on the cheek teeth. When I used a specialist referral, the prices were the same as my usual vet - so it's worth asking.
 
That price range (£300–£400 under GA) is, unfortunately, pretty normal in the UK for rabbit dental work. Rabbits need a full anaesthetic for molar burring, which is why costs run high. Repeat dentals every few months are also common for buns with existing malocclusion — it’s not your fault, and it often comes from genetics or poor diet in their early life.

A few things to consider:

Get a second quote from a rabbit-savvy vet (RWA-accredited if possible). Some practices are significantly cheaper than big high-street chains.

Improve hay intake — trying different cuts, brands, or mixing in forage can sometimes slow the tooth growth.

Teeth grinding can be a sign of discomfort, so it’s good you’re looking into this early.

You’re not being overcharged — but you should check alternative rabbit-specialist vets before committing. Many owners do find more affordable options this way.

You’re doing the right thing by trying to understand the costs upfront.
 
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