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I've seen it all now.

It is always great to read your posts and see how much you care for Benjie. your comment about his behaviour at the vets reminded me of a half wildie pair I once had, one boy would flatten himself into the table, the other would do the same, but then at completely random moments would try to leap or run/climb to freedom :shock: :lol: after the first consultation we always dealt with them on the floor. I did tell the vet they were a bit wild but I don't think she expected that :lol:
 
It is always great to read your posts and see how much you care for Benjie. your comment about his behaviour at the vets reminded me of a half wildie pair I once had, one boy would flatten himself into the table, the other would do the same, but then at completely random moments would try to leap or run/climb to freedom :shock: :lol: after the first consultation we always dealt with them on the floor. I did tell the vet they were a bit wild but I don't think she expected that :lol:

Thank you for your reply & experience Zoobec. Full & part wildies are different to care for than a full domestic bun. I ask the stupidest questions eg how does a rabbit even know what to eat when they come out of the stop, because they've had so little contact with the mother, & have been totally abandoned when they come out? Also a vet nurse had done research comparing wild rabbit behaviour with domestic rabbit behaviour - conclusion - not much difference.

From observing my single domestic buns, they have had different "hard wiring" (I have to reprimand destructive behaviour, & show them a non destructive way they can be rabbits!) They seem to learn as young kits by watching very closely & copying. Benjie has the full "hard wiring" to dig front & rear motion to perfection. Thumper only had the front end motion so I had to demonstrate the back end motion, stooping down so I looked as if on all 4's. He "got it" 1st time7 had a whale of a time making scrapes thereafter. On one occasion I was moving some plants, dug the holes & Thumper had a great time digging lots of holes nearby. I then poured water in the bottom of my holes. Thumper copied by weeing in his holes. It was the only time he did it, as I never dug holes with him again. Same when I raked the moss out of the lawn. He watched & raked all the moss out in his run very fast with his nails! He then noticed that it made the grass stand up & had a feast!

I think you may know that flattening is a response to a predator when they're in the open & can't get down a burrow, often to a predator overhead - BOP. Thinks " lie totally still, merge into the background, get rid of the rabbit "profile", & hope they don't recognise you as potential prey".
Most predators use predominantly vision to localise prey, & use hearing & smell to know that there's prey in the vicinity.
Vets are very disadvantaged because they cannot help but smell of the previous animals they've seen. So as far as rabbits are concerned the vet is human but has invisable predators with him. Rabbits trust smell & hearing above vision. David is brilliant, he never towers over Benjie = predator in the air, butleans back away from him.

I once watched a cat interested in Thumper when he was in his run. I knew Thumper was safe & I was ready to intervene if the cat made a further move. Thumper froze into a statue. Cat looks away,hoping that the "frozen prey" will do a runner, then looks back to see what's happened. Thumper remained a "statue". It was very effective because the cat was only a couple of yards away, but gave up interest after 3-4 attempts to get him to move.

While on this subject I've very strong feelings against "trancing rabbits" by turning them belly up in our arms. Trancing immobilises them completely whatever we do to them, & is the last ditch stand when actually caught hoping the predator thinks they're dead, Of course the other last ditch stand is screaming (which even turns my stomach) - hoping the unexpected loud noise will make the predator drop them. I've seen all this in domestic rabbits. The scream was when a rabbit got a narrow strap round his rear leg ran but couldn't get free from it.
 
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I am going to re-read your thread later but notice you say wild rabbits don't drink - that is interesting as I wondered about the rabbits on the Downs where there is hardly any food and no water. I've resurrected the thread regarding amounts of pellets started by Mervinius. One of our Vets used to examine rabbits on the floor, she is no longer at the practice, but it does make sense. Lots of info to sink in!
 
I am going to re-read your thread later but notice you say wild rabbits don't drink - that is interesting as I wondered about the rabbits on the Downs where there is hardly any food and no water. I've resurrected the thread regarding amounts of pellets started by Mervinius. One of our Vets used to examine rabbits on the floor, she is no longer at the practice, but it does make sense. Lots of info to sink in!

I live on chalk downland too Tonibun, & it's where most of the local warrens are. I got to know them very well over the years & noticed water sources initially wondering where prehistoric man got their water from, sometimes over 2 miles from the nearest permanent water souce. I once read that wild rabbits avoid water because they can't afford flooding in their burrows. Before he was seriously ill, Thumper was a grass eater + a bit of fresh veg. He never drank water in his lfe - got all his fluids from fresh plants.
 
A last tip about getting dill seeds into a pellet form. My recipe.
1 teaspoon of dill seeds ground to a fine powder. (Some electrical grinders can't manage small seeds, some do, so I use a pestle & mortar.) We need a binder, so I grind an equal volume of his SS pellets to a fine powder. (critial care pwder is quite gelatinous but I haven't tried it)
Mix the 2 then add water with a syringe because we don't need much until it's the consistency of modelling clay. Leave for 20 mins. The pellets absorb a lot of water so it goes crumbly again. Add more water to modelling clay consistency again. get a small amount & sqeeze it into pellet size, & let dry a few hours until it's "pickable upable". Some rabbits can manage a mush. Benjie can't & it gets in the end of his nostrils.

Benjie has done his usual Spring diet change. Not keen on anything. He always goes off his weeping willow twigs when the 1st leaves start to come out, & sure enough there are always a few bushes of early hawthorn coming into leaf & he scoffs both leaf & twig with gusto. (Much better fibre & what he's used to) This is normal Spring behaviour for Benjie. :D
He's had a couple of days of lying much more comfortably. You've guessed it. Dill seed laced pellets are uneaten! Maybe he doesn't need them ????

In fact his diet has been "normalising" over the last 2 weeks. :D A gradual introduction of a bit of fresh sticky Willy & dandelion. He's sleeping for longer with much less snoring.
So there we are - tentatively "home & dry" from nerves, snuffles back under control,snoring very quiet & able to sleep without waking himself up. eye discharge stopped with new fur growth. Gut reasonable, poops could be better, but I'm sure that back to his normal fibre will improve poops a lot. Hock sores - stage 1 - small bald patch, skin intact & fur cover from surrounding fur, don't need treating apart from trying to get them to lie on soft bedding, & good nail care, just vigilance. This is common if rabbits "cradle alot" because of abdominal pain & can't take the weight off the hocks properly. It is better not to put creams on them at this stage because creams prevent cover by surrounding fur.
Chin now furry again. I'm really impressed with the calendula cream BUT it can only be used on intact skin more to prevent breakdown or where you are absolutely sure there is no infection.

There's a lesson here for us all. Psychological stress can be purely that a rabbit feels more predator prone. Stress of any sort slows down the gut & drops the immune response so a chronic infection like snuffles an reactivate.

Terminal care is understandably a topic which is painful to think about.
It's far from giving up, it's battle royal with attention to every small detail to keep our rabbits as comfortable as possible & lower stress levels. It can involve some difficult decisions for us - how far to go? The normal treatment for a blocked tear duct would be a flush, but given Benjie's temperament IMO it would have been have been worse for him, than seeing if infection control & reduction of inflammation worked.
All credit to David-vet Abx Injections every 3 days were far less stressful than daily oral meds for Benjie. We got away with it despite Benjie's bleeding tendancy.

Different decisions would have been made for rabbits who are more "layed back", which I think applies to most rabbits!!
I strongly recommend Beccimarie's old threads about Casper & Poppy both had osteomyelitis - Casper jaw & Poppy advanced osteomelitis of the face. Abx couldn't work without extensive surgery to remove dead bone as is explained on the tread. It's astounding how long both rabbits lived with good quality of life, just by attention to every detail to relieve their suffereng & minimise stress & thinking "outside the box".

I would like to thank everyone who has contributed, which has been a great support to me.
 
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