Outdoor Housing Tips & Examples

[Elena]

This thread covers outdoor housing.

Please note that whatever type of housing you choose rabbits need space! And lots of it!

The RWAF suggests that rabbits have an overall area of 10 ft x 6 ft with a run height of 3ft, or in metric, 3m x 2m and a run height of 1m. This gives an ideal minimum area of 60 square foot. Bigger is better!!

Table of contents:

Part 1 - Links
Part 2a - Hutches
Part 2b - Examples of hutches
Part 2c - Improving an old hutch
Part 3a - Sheds
Part 3b - Examples of sheds (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6)
Part 4a - Playhouses
Part 4b - Examples of playhouses (1) (2) (3)
Part 5a - Runs
Part 5b - Examples of runs
Part 6a - Aviaries
Part 6b - Examples of aviaries
Part 7a - Dog Kennels
Part 7b - Examples of dog kennels
Part 8a - Bike Sheds
Part 8b - Examples of bike sheds
Part 9a - Runaround System
Part 9b - Examples of runaround system
Part 10 - Winter Care (1) (2)

If anyone has links or pictures to add or would like their pictures removed please PM me directly and I'll get it sorted

 

[Elena]

Links:

RWAF A Hutch is Not Enough website

RWAF A Hutch is Not Enough leaflet (pdf)

RWAF The Reality of Small Hutch page

RSPCA Rabbit Housing leaflet (pdf)

Rabbit.org Housing FAQ

Veternarypartner.com article "Why Rabbits Need Exercise"

 

[Elena]

Hutches:

What are they?

A hutch is a wooden structure and the standard idea for rabbit housing. It normally consists of one enclosed area with a wooden door and one larger open area with one or two meshed doors. They are also often available in double or triple heights and with runs attached underneath.

(Photo from www.deemillen.co.uk)

(Photo from Forsham Cottage Arks)

What are the advantages?

Hutches are easy to find. They are usually 2-3 foot high so don't take up much space in a garden.

What are the disadvantages?

Most hutches on the market are far too small. The minimum is a six foot long hutch that is two foot deep and two foot high. There are seven and eight foot long hutches available as well as three foot deep and high hutches. Hutches also need an attached run of at least eight foot by four foot as hutches alone do not provide enough space for proper exercise.

OK, so I want to go for a hutch, what do I do now?

Look for a big, sturdy, well made hutch. It might cost more to find a well made hutch from proper materials but the benefits are that it won't need to be replaced so quickly. Cheap hutches often leak or get chewed, before eventually falling apart. Mesh should also be galvanised and 19 gauge or better. Chicken wire is not substantial enough and can be chewed by both rabbits and predators.

It's often a good idea to lino the floor of a hutch to make for easily cleaning. Some rabbits chew so covering exposed surfaces is also a good idea.

Good companies for hutches are:

• Forsham Cottage Arks
• Kernow Pet Housing
• Ryedale
• The Happy Hutch Company
• The Rabbit Hutch Shop
• Wooden Buildings
• Boyles Joinery

What to look for in a hutch (With thanks to Daniel):

"Joinery Grade Scandinavian Whitewood is fine, the best to use is Joinery Grade Scandinavian Redwood. Most places called them European redwood or whitewood. In terms of hardwoods i have no idea as the price makes it far too much to be worth it.

Redface WBP plywood is fine and cheaper than the stuff B&Q and the alike sell, but both are fine, you need WBP and still it should be treated to use outside.

Mesh wise, Weld Wire Mesh at least 19G, 16G is better. As for the square size, i only use 13x13mm and 25x13mm, 13x13mm is better as it stops flies getting in. Prime Welded Wire Mesh is better because as it’s galvanised before and after the manufacturing progress so double protection. Not all suppliers sell prime mesh.

In terms of how a hutch is built, you want a solid roof, no tongue and groove roofs, no hinges roofs; you need a solid roof to be waterproof.

Plywood should be at least 9mm thick if used for a hutch, floor, roof or walls. Cladding should be 12mm thick and the edges (end gains) of the cladding should be coved to stop moisture soaking in the end gain.

As for treatment, any pet safe treatment is fine however I’ve not found a manufacture of Tanalised Timber that says it’s safe for rabbits. I’m not using it to I get proof it’s safe, I don’t believe in the “my wife had rabbits for years with Tanalised timber so it’s fine and safe to use).

Legs, a hutch should not be built with the side timbers using as legs too, as this means the roof and floor is not supported. The legs should be attached after the frame is made to support the roof and floor.

Insulation, if you insulate the hutch you need to add airflow, so attach vents, at least one vent each side not including the door. Line the inside with plywood to hide the insulation."

 

[Elena]

Examples:

From this thread

From this post

From rabbitdan

From Jenova

From this post

 

[Elena]

Fluffers Hutch and Run Improvement Thread

Thought this may be useful to others who may be thinking of ways to improve their current accommodation, particularly weather/fox proofing. I also wanted a before and after type record to send to new would-be bunny owners as I find pictures offer more encouragement and clarity Many of the alterations can be applied to sheds & wendy houses too :wave:

6ft x 2ft x 2ftx Hutch & run combo (Rydale I believe) bought off ebay started out like this:

Increased height of run by adding a 4 inch plinth around the bottom (now 24 inches) I later found that the other benefit of this is that it provides a wind break for the buns + more shade in the summer Added bolts to doors, lino to hutch floor & painted inside & out:

Winter weather proofing began by adding corrugated plastic to the run lid, making shutters for the meshed hutch doors & an end panel for the run (using exterior ply). The end panel made SUCH a difference, stopped the rain from blowing in & soaking everything & everybun:

2nd end panel and 1/2 front panel for the run were made (the back of the run is against the fence but with a 2-3 inch gap so still plenty of air circulating):

...and finally, a 4ft x 3ft extension was added (we put a door in the front of the existing run soon after it was first acquired for this reason but also so that the buns could hop in and out for supervised free ranging time)

The paint used is Wilkinsons own 'Willow' from their 'Colour your garden' range. It is water based so dries quickly & very easy to use

Please note: This accommodation is used as foster rabbit housing (i.e. temporary) and the MINIMUM size a pair of rabbits should be re-homed to. Larger set ups should be considered wherever possible (even for small breeds of rabbits). Check CVS Ad on WeeklyAds2. Aviarys, sheds or wendy houses with attached runs are ideal and a must for larger breeds such as giants. :thumb:

Stator's ramp

Using decking planks you can make them quite steep, although this example isn't very steep:

 

[Elena]

Sheds:

What are they?

A shed is a garden building for storing items.

(Image from www.shedsworld.co.uk)

What are the advantages?

Sheds provide a larger area, tend to be cheaper for the space provided and are available secondhand. They are also readily available and are taller than hutches providing space for levels and tall toys.

What are the disadvantages?

Due to their size sheds don't work so well for smaller gardens. They may look unsightly although a lick of paint and some ingenuity can make them look beautiful.

OK, so I want to go for a shed, what do I do now?

Look for something that will last. You might want to insulate to help keep it cool in summer and warm in winter. Boarding the inside stops the rabbits from chewing the edges. Many of our members have made second levels with shelves or a hutch. A low hutch with a flat roof can easily be used by putting a smaller stool next to it for a jump up or a ramp to the top. A hutch on legs can also be used by building a ramp up to the smaller doorway.

It's also a good idea to have some space outside so the rabbits can have some fresh air, runs and aviaries can be connected with a cat flap or tunnel. If there are windows in the shed it can be a good idea to mesh these, especially if there are a lot as the shed may get quite hot. You may also want to make a low down barrier that you can step over when you open the door otherwise they may run out!!

Please note that plastic and metal sheds are not suitable as they get too hot in summer and too cold in winter.

 

[Elena]

Examples:

From this post

From this thread

From this thread

From this thread

 

[Elena]

From this thread

From this thread

 

[Elena]

From this thread

From this post

 

[Elena]

From this post

From this post

 

[Elena]

From this thread and this thread

From this post

 

[Elena]

The new bunny shed is finally complete!

It only took nearly four weeks! Here's a little photo diary of the construction...

The before pics...

The shed in pieces...

Building the shed...

There were a few problems. Some of the instructions were wrong for the size I bought. There wasn't enough roofing felt (luckily I already had a roll) and the tacks supplied were useless, so I had to buy better ones. Some of the wood was bent so I had to buy more. I'm sure there were other problems, but I can't remember now!

Painted, added a couple of windows, a cat flap, bolts and a couple of window boxes...

Inside, I made a second floor, put lino on the floor, carpet on the second floor, made a ramp and a ledge so the buns don't fall off, added a large litter tray, a couple of beds and a toy...

I think it looks awesome! Buns have gone from having 68sq feet to 80 sq feet (not including upper level) I think! I'm very proud of my painting and DIY skills!*

*My dad helped a LOT!

From this thread

From this post

 

[Elena]

Playhouses:

What are they?

A playhouse is similar to a shed but designed for children. They tend to have less head room than sheds.

(Image from www.thewoodengarden.com)

What are the advantages?

Like sheds they provide a large area, tend to be cheaper and available secondhand. They are pretty looking as well so reduce the unsightliness of a large building. They are taller than hutches so give plenty of height for toys and levels.

What are the disadvantages?

As with sheds they don't work so well for smaller gardens. They also tend to have less head height than sheds so can be a bit awkward for human visitors!

OK, so I want to go for a playhouse, what do I do now?

As with sheds look for something that will last. You might want to insulate to help keep it cool in summer and warm in winter. Boarding the inside stops the rabbits from chewing the edges. Many of our members have made second levels with shelves or a hutch. A low hutch with a flat roof can easily be used by putting a smaller stool next to it for a jump up or a ramp to the top. A hutch on legs can also be used by building a ramp up to the smaller doorway.

It's also a good idea to have some space outside so the rabbits can have some fresh air, runs and aviaries can be connected with a cat flap or tunnel. If there are windows in the playhouse it can be a good idea to mesh these, especially if there are a lot as the playhouse may get quite hot. You may also want to make a low down barrier that you can step over when you open the door otherwise they may run out!!

Please note that plastic and metal playhouses are not suitable as they get too hot in summer and too cold in winter.

This is a fab step by step conversion of a playhouse into a rabbit home by The Duchess

Part 1:

Hiya.

Just in the process of converting my newest purchase on ebay and having been asked in the past about second floors etc I thought I might post a few pics. Hope they are of some use.

Starting with the skeleton

Took out the perspex and replaced it with weld mesh. The perspex can be kept and made into weather screens. Made a simple frame and added weld mesh to make an internal door that means you can leave the solid door open in good weather. Bunnies will also love being able to see out at floor level.

Put some insulation on the walls - I've found this to work a treat in my earlier version of the same wendy house. The bunnies sailed through the winter. You can use silver backed bubble wrap or Rockwool etc but in this case because of iit's sheltered location I opted for layers of regular bubble wrap. Roof is insulated with Wickes silver backed bubble wrap and works equally brillaintly in the summer or the winter.

I attached some battening to support the skin that is going to be added, plus this gives you something to attach a second floor to.

I cut a hole in the side of the wall for access to the run outside and added battening to frame it out and give strength. It also gives the bunnies something to grip onto. In addition, if they are chewers, you can easily replace attached bits, where you couldn't replace the actual sides of the shed!

Using plywood, I have skinned the whole of the wendy house out to give extra warmth. The bonus is that the little darlings can't chew the uprights or wee in the corners where you can't clean. Also, I find that fluff collects in the sides of sheds so this helps to prevent that too.

I attached an old hutch door (saving me masses of time and swearing) as the closure for the hatch into the run. This time I have attached it on the inside of the wendy house and it will swing up under the shelf and hook open. The last wendy house I did this in, I put it on the oustide but every time I needed to hook it closed I had to climb into the run to do so. Having it inside should make it much easier.

I also attached some more battening in a frame for the second floor, screwing through into the timber I added earlier - nice and sturdy.

I have added skirting board as this gives the little sweethearts something else to chew if they must, it can always be replaced. Put a piece of timber on the shelf frame and covered both it and the entire floor with lino to help cleaning out. Works a treat and saves masses of time. It also helps with insulation.

Lastly added a bit of a rim to the shelf so that things don't fall of the shelf and a little ladder.

That's as far as I have got to date - out there today making the attached run.

Part 2:

So having had a think about litter trays and where to put them, I decided to move the ladder. I had to add more shelving to do this but I am now chuffed with the amount of space I have (or rather the buns) have got. They seem to like it too now they've moved in. Shall be doing the paving and adding their run today and tomorrow so then they'll have a load of outside play too.

Part 3:

So now I am feeling a bit happier about my efforts as I managed to finish the run (except for the 'hardtop') today and the buns can now go outside. Except Mr Monkfish hasn't tried it yet......he doesn't like anything but carpet and is finding the paving a little worrying

It's taken longer than expected because our garden is a bit off square and I had to wangle all of my corners. Still now I can finish off doing the landscaping around them tomorrow, provided the sun doesn't shine too much......

Bunnies watching my hard work and sniggering probably!

And the new pad 'christened' by my little friend Yasmin (10) who is mad about rabbits and has two rescue buns of hers and her mums own. Mr and Mrs Monkfish seem suitably pleased.

Part 4:

Finished the patio outside complete with bunny herb garden and have also done the flyscreens etc (after I took the pictures) so now I can relax.............not.

Well at least Mr Monkfish has actually decided to venture out into the run today so I think it's been a bit of a success......

Helen

 

[Elena]

Examples:

From this thread

From this post

From this post

From this post

 

[Elena]

From this post

From this thread

From this post

From this post

 

[Elena]

From this thread

From this thread:

 

[Elena]

Runs:

What are they?

A run is an enclosed meshed area for rabbits. They usually have four sides and a top. Usually they are made from panels that have a wood frame with mesh inside. There are also metal runs with metal tops and metal runs without tops.

(Image from www.gardencentreonline.co.uk)

(Image from www.trixie.de)

(Image from www.trixie.de)

What are the advantages?

Runs offer a ready made extension to a hutch, shed or playhouse. They are usually easy to find.

What are the disadvantages?

Runs often need extra protection added such as mesh underneath to stop a rabbit from digging out. They also don't offer shelter. They don't usually allow the owner to be able to get in with the rabbits.

Please be aware of a safety hazard with some kinds of runs as detailed in this link.

OK, so I want to go for a run, what do I do now?

Runs should be at least 8 foot long, 4 foot deep and 2 foot high. Taller runs are preferred as rabbits can easily reach 2 foot in the air binkying, some can reach 3 foot plus.

Runs should be meshed underneath, either to the bottom of the run or under turf. It is advisable to connect them to a hutch or similar so that the rabbit has a place of shelter in case of inclement weather or predators which can scare the rabbit to death. Cat flaps and runaround tunnels can be used for this. If making a run make sure to use galvanised mesh and NOT chicken wire as chicken wire can be easily bitten through by rabbits and predators alike.

If using a run without a secure lid make sure the rabbits are supervised at all times in case of a predator knocking the lid off and being able to get to the rabbits.

THIS LINK shows one method of building a run (Please note that in the photos chicken wire is used, please use galvanised mesh instead of chicken wire!)

And another step-by-step of how to make a run by snaisby

Unscrewed all the bits and ended up with lots of long pieces of wood. Cut some of them in half to make the short sides. Mitre cut all the ends (45 degree angle) to make the panels more sturdy. Here's the 'work area' (patio ) with the bits laid out:

Cleaned off the years of algae, screwed and glued the wood into 4 frames for the sides:

Panels finally meshed and bolted together. Measures just shy of 8 x 4ft, 2ft high

lol a mitre joint is a joint where the ends are cut at 45 degrees so they fit together like this:

Knocked it all apart with a hammer (i stood on a rusty nail at this point ow) and cleaned it up

Took a loooong bit of the old conservatory roof plastic

Cut it up with a jigsaw (fun )

Used the thin bits of wood to make a 'lip' around the edge of the run, then inset the plastic panels into it

Hinged the middle of the roof and added rope handles for opening it and for dragging it around the lawn - et voila!

Excuse my family in the background lol!

Really pleased with how its turned out, it has already been rained on and stayed lovely and waterproof!

 

[Elena]

Examples:

From this post

From this thread

From this thread

From this post

From this post

From this post

From this thread

From this post

 

[Elena]

Aviaries:

What are they?

A aviary is like a tall run. They are mainly designed for birds. You can buy them ready made or buy pre-made panels and put them together.

(Image from www.aviaries4u.co.uk)

(Image from www.manorfarmwoodcraft.co.uk)

What are the advantages?

Aviaries have an advantage over runs as they are taller which means they have more head height for owners. This also gives scope for adding in levels and taller toys. As they also come in panels they can be quite flexible. The panels can also be used for building a run.

What are the disadvantages?

In a small garden an aviary may feel imposing and take up space. Aviaries also cannot be moved around like runs can.

OK, so I want to go for a aviary, what do I do now?

Decide whether you want to buy a ready made aviary or panels. There are some sellers on Ebay as well as websites that sell both the panels and the built aviaries. As with runs make sure the panels are built using galvanised mesh and NOT chicken wire. The best runs use 19G mesh or better.

As with runs aviaries should be meshed underneath, either to the bottom of the run or under turf. It is advisable to connect them to a hutch or similar so that the rabbit has a place of shelter in case of inclement weather or predators which can scare the rabbit to death. Cat flaps and runaround tunnels can be used for this. It can be a good idea to create a roof over the aviary with corrugated plastic slightly raised one side to drain water away so that it does not become flooded.

 

[Elena]

Examples:

From this post

From this thread

From this post

From this thread

From this post

From this thread

From this post