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I have a problem

He will be due his booster vaccine in a couple months and it be nice to have him all ready and neutered for summer to join the others. I'm going to aim to get him booked in for next week or maybe the week after.

Edit: I just checked my records Lambchop isn't due his booster shot until July but Lucky and Laceys booster shot is a month before Lambchops..
 
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Don't forget that it will be a couple of months after neutering before you can safely start to bond, otherwise hormones will affect the bond.
 
Also don't assume that Lucky and LC will accept a trio bond, esp as Lacey is an unspayed doe and Lucky will consider her his partner. It's easier to bond two females and one male. I tried to bond an established m/f couple with Stakki, and my older (usually docile) male tried to kill him every time I attempted it. All three were neutered but those hormones stay very strong.
 
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I've had m/m/f trios before with no issues. I usually have more problems with 2 girls. Current aim of a m/m/f trio isn't working, though - so it all depends on the individual rabbits.
 
so it all depends on the individual rabbits.

I think this is true for all bondings, regardless of numbers. IME the Rabbit’s characters are far more significant than their genders. IME the hardest bonding and the one least likely to remain stable is a Doe/Doe bond. People often say two neutered Bucks can’t be bonded. This has certainly not been my experience. The easiest bonds I have done over the last 26 years has been between neutered Buck/neutered Buck. IME it’s always the Does who are the awkward ones.
 
I've had m/m/f trios before with no issues. I usually have more problems with 2 girls. Current aim of a m/m/f trio isn't working, though - so it all depends on the individual rabbits.

I agree with that too. My experience with rabbits all depends on the individual rabbits, even if one rabbit doesn't bond it may just ignore the other and be fine to keep them together. Sometimes bonding processes can include a bit of fighting or chasing to start with but calm down after a short while much like a pecking order as long as the fighting is not severe or likely to cause serious harm. I used to know somebody who would put rabbits together until they became bonded with one another although rabbits were monitored during those times and it worked well.
 
One of the ways I would start my bonding is to place one bunny in a protected area like a large dog create so the two bunnies can get acquainted with one another without risk of fighting and do that for a few days at least and swap liter trays around. Rubbing my hands up and down one bunny to another would also help to share the scents with one another.
 
Just to clarify that is placing only one bunny in a dog create while the other bunny in on the outside of the crate. I thought I would mention that just encase its misread as two bunnies being in the dog crate..
 
The machines used to run blood profiles are essentially ones that NHS hospitals use but adapted for veterinary use - they are not the sort of thing that you install at home. Blood samples for those tests can legally only be taken by a qualified vet. It's not just about eg a urine sample result. It also takes years of training to be able to examine and diagnose any animal.You still need to consult a vet, and even then it can take time to get to the bottom of things.

I hope you manage to get an appointment tomorrow morning. Once you find out what's going on, then you can look at ways to manage it in future.

I am sure I could learn how to use one of them and even adapt one if needed. I've done some amazing things with machinery and computer related things that some may say takes years of training I've done in less than a couple of weeks. :D These days you need qualifications just to press a few buttons. If I were 20 years younger I would have changed my career path to train as a vet. I'm a fast learner. Having one of those machines would really help.
 
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