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general advice for new baby

hi all,
I recently have reserved a gorgeous female netherland dwarf female. She will be my first non rescue rabbit and the first rabbit i have from a baby. She will be living outdoors and with 2 other rabbits. She will be vaccinated and possibly microchipped. I will also have her spayed but was wondering if anyone new any particularly rabbit experienced vets to get her spayed at around hertfordshire and any advice about that aswell would be appreciated. I have always had mine neutered/spayed but i understand it is abit riskier with a bunny of her size. Any advice especially with getting her spayed would be much appreciated, many thanks
 
Firstly she will need to be quarentined well away from you current two Rabbits for at least a week. Also, be aware that if your current two Rabbits are bonded, the smell or sight of a new Rabbit can upset the bond leading to squabbles and potentially fighting. This is called ‘referred aggression’

I would advise you get the new Rabbit Vet checked and vaccinated ASAP. The Nobivac Myxo RHD Plus vaccine can be given from the age of 5 weeks.i would get the Vet to confirm gender too. It is not unusual for baby Rabbits to be mis-sexed by Pet Shops and Breeders.

Find out the exact diet the new Rabbit is used to and do not make any changes until she is about 12 weeks of age. Any dietary change must be done gradually over a period of about 10 days.

As long as a Doe is healthy and weighs at least 1kg they can be spayed at 5-6 months of age. Some Netherland Dwarfs might only just get to 1kg when fully grown. But a Rabbit Savvy Vet will be able to take every precaution possible to insure a spay is still possible as the risks of uterine adenocarcinoma developing by the age of about 5 years, sometimes even younger, is still greater than the risks of a spay.A Buck can be castrated as soon as his testicles descend, this usually occurs at about 14-16 weeks. Bucks can remain fertile for up to 6 weeks AFTER neutering.
Some Vets will spay from 4 months but personally I think that’s too young. Not relevant for you, but just as general information Giant Breeds mature more slowly. I have Giants spayed from 8-10 months.

Netherland Dwarfs are especially prone to Dental malocclusion. So this is something to be mindful about

As they are a brachycephalic breed they are also more prone to respiratory tract problems

IMG_2197.jpeg


The best source of information about all matters relating to the care of Rabbits can be found on the Rabbit Welfare Association and Fund’s website. There is also a section about locating a Rabbit Savvy Vet in your area.


Good luck with your new addition 😀
 
Firstly she will need to be quarentined well away from you current two Rabbits for at least a week. Also, be aware that if your current two Rabbits are bonded, the smell or sight of a new Rabbit can upset the bond leading to squabbles and potentially fighting. This is called ‘referred aggression’

I would advise you get the new Rabbit Vet checked and vaccinated ASAP. The Nobivac Myxo RHD Plus vaccine can be given from the age of 5 weeks.i would get the Vet to confirm gender too. It is not unusual for baby Rabbits to be mis-sexed by Pet Shops and Breeders.

Find out the exact diet the new Rabbit is used to and do not make any changes until she is about 12 weeks of age. Any dietary change must be done gradually over a period of about 10 days.

As long as a Doe is healthy and weighs at least 1kg they can be spayed at 5-6 months of age. Some Netherland Dwarfs might only just get to 1kg when fully grown. But a Rabbit Savvy Vet will be able to take every precaution possible to insure a spay is still possible as the risks of uterine adenocarcinoma developing by the age of about 5 years, sometimes even younger, is still greater than the risks of a spay.A Buck can be castrated as soon as his testicles descend, this usually occurs at about 14-16 weeks. Bucks can remain fertile for up to 6 weeks AFTER neutering.
Some Vets will spay from 4 months but personally I think that’s too young. Not relevant for you, but just as general information Giant Breeds mature more slowly. I have Giants spayed from 8-10 months.

Netherland Dwarfs are especially prone to Dental malocclusion. So this is something to be mindful about

As they are a brachycephalic breed they are also more prone to respiratory tract problems

View attachment 1115


The best source of information about all matters relating to the care of Rabbits can be found on the Rabbit Welfare Association and Fund’s website. There is also a section about locating a Rabbit Savvy Vet in your area.


Good luck with your new addition 😀
Hi there,
Thank you so much, hopefully as my two are quite calm and reacted well when introduced to each other they should be alright, could I ask with quarantine for a week is that for the vaccine to kick in? I was definitely going to book that in asap but do you think a few day after getting her would be too soon? Her breeder will give us change of food and will advise on what she has already been eating hopefully.
I have also heard that in some cases dwarfs don’t make it over 1kg, if that’s the case would it be too high risk for anaesthetic? And also thank you so much for the links I think I may have a couple in mind to speak to about her spay and have read up on the dental issues so I will make sure she always has plenty to chew but thank you so much that all really helped 😁
 
Unless strongly advised not to do so by a Rabbit Savvy/ Exotics Vet I would always get a Doe spayed. Even if she remains very small, the risk of UC is still far greater than the GA risk.

The vaccine takes 21 days to establish a full immune response.



Referred aggression between bonded Rabbits is always a potential when a new Rabbit arrives, regardless of how well established the bond or how easy going the Rabbits appear to be.

With Nethie congenital dental problems a good diet based on 80%-90% hay, whilst still essential, will not prevent dental problems occurring. It might reduce severity though. And a good diet is always essential for good gut health


Quarantine is necessary to allow the new Rabbit to settle in and to make sure there are no signs of health problems such as ‘Snuffles’ or gastrointestinal issues. Baby Rabbits have a delicate GI tract and the 8-10 week of age period is a critical time as this is when the PH if the stomach changes and the bacterial flora in the cecum can be disrupted. Stress caused by being taken to a new home can trigger GI tract upsets. There are also certain contagious gut problems that baby Rabbits are more prone to eg Coccidiosis.

I always give a new intake a one off 28 day course of Fenbendazole (Panacur) as a means of EC control.


Do speak with a Rabbit Savvy Vet first though.
 
Unless strongly advised not to do so by a Rabbit Savvy/ Exotics Vet I would always get a Doe spayed. Even if she remains very small, the risk of UC is still far greater than the GA risk.

The vaccine takes 21 days to establish a full immune response.



Referred aggression between bonded Rabbits is always a potential when a new Rabbit arrives, regardless of how well established the bond or how easy going the Rabbits appear to be.

With Nethie congenital dental problems a good diet based on 80%-90% hay, whilst still essential, will not prevent dental problems occurring. It might reduce severity though. And a good diet is always essential for good gut health


Quarantine is necessary to allow the new Rabbit to settle in and to make sure there are no signs of health problems such as ‘Snuffles’ or gastrointestinal issues. Baby Rabbits have a delicate GI tract and the 8-10 week of age period is a critical time as this is when the PH if the stomach changes and the bacterial flora in the cecum can be disrupted. Stress caused by being taken to a new home can trigger GI tract upsets. There are also certain contagious gut problems that baby Rabbits are more prone to eg Coccidiosis.

I always give a new intake a one off 28 day course of Fenbendazole (Panacur) as a means of EC control.


Do speak with a Rabbit Savvy Vet first though.
Thank you so much for your help,
I will quarantine her inside for maybe 7-10 as I definitely know the stress of GI stasis. I also have always got all my rabbit spayed and neutered as it is definitely the right thing to do, I think I just want to definitely make sure she is in the right hand when the time comes. My rabbits are also always fully vaccinated when I have them too. I will try to stay aware of referred aggression and if any happens I do have space to separate them and hopefully rebound them one they have calmed down and I can fortunately say all of my previous duo/trio bonding has all been successful so am hoping it goes smoothly with these bunnies. I’ll make sure I mention the dental problem to be checked every time we are at the vets and I’ll make sure to stay on top of checking that myself.

I had a look at the panacur that you recommended, do you buy the syringe type one?
She will be quarantined but hopefully during that time I won’t discover any heath issues as she is coming for quite a high quality breeder. Would you advise to have her vaccinated a few days after getting her or would it be too stressful? And will definitely phone up a few vets about her spay.
Thank you so much for your help 😁
 
Thank you so much for your help,
I will quarantine her inside for maybe 7-10 as I definitely know the stress of GI stasis. I also have always got all my rabbit spayed and neutered as it is definitely the right thing to do, I think I just want to definitely make sure she is in the right hand when the time comes. My rabbits are also always fully vaccinated when I have them too. I will try to stay aware of referred aggression and if any happens I do have space to separate them and hopefully rebound them one they have calmed down and I can fortunately say all of my previous duo/trio bonding has all been successful so am hoping it goes smoothly with these bunnies. I’ll make sure I mention the dental problem to be checked every time we are at the vets and I’ll make sure to stay on top of checking that myself.

I had a look at the panacur that you recommended, do you buy the syringe type one?
She will be quarantined but hopefully during that time I won’t discover any heath issues as she is coming for quite a high quality breeder. Would you advise to have her vaccinated a few days after getting her or would it be too stressful? And will definitely phone up a few vets about her spay.
Thank you so much for your help 😁

I use the Panacur 10% liquid which contains the same active ingredient as the paste, Fenbendazole. It is more economical and easier to give the correct weight specific dose, 0.2ml/kg/day which is 20mg/kg/day. I buy it from here


It says it’s for dogs, puppies and kittens but it’s perfectly safe for Rabbits. It’s just that it’s only the paste formulation that has gone through the species specific testing to be able to be sold for a named species. It’s much harder to give a weight specific dose using the paste.

A reputable Breeder should already have vaccinated the Rabbits they sell. Personally I’d be very, very wary if the breeder hasn’t done this and even more concerned if none of the Rabbits are vaccinated. I would establish what the situation is. RHD is rife nationwide. I would want the new Rabbit to be Vet checked and vaccinated ASAP if she hasn’t been done. Personally I wouldn’t buy from a Breeder who did not vaccinate.

Have you seen the health documentation for the Rabbit you are buying ? This should include details of her parents and grandparents as a minimum. There should also be proof of a pre sale Vet check.
 
Panacur 10% liquid (for cats & dogs) is easier to dose accurately, especially at the lower levels you are looking at. I find the syringes of paste fiddly and very variable in what they dispense - as well as a lot more expensive.

Hay is the best thing to keep teeth and guts in good condition. Chewing hay has a different action to eg chew 'toys'.

My preference is to have a rabbit vaccinated before they come to me. Failing that, maybe on the way home....less stress from another journey and they get health checked at the same time. Quarantining then allows time for the newbie to settle in to the new surroundings and schedules, and for any latent issues to show themselves.
 
I use the Panacur 10% liquid which contains the same active ingredient as the paste, Fenbendazole. It is more economical and easier to give the correct weight specific dose, 0.2ml/kg/day which is 20mg/kg/day. I buy it from here


It says it’s for dogs, puppies and kittens but it’s perfectly safe for Rabbits. It’s just that it’s only the paste formulation that has gone through the species specific testing to be able to be sold for a named species. It’s much harder to give a weight specific dose using the paste.

A reputable Breeder should already have vaccinated the Rabbits they sell. Personally I’d be very, very wary if the breeder hasn’t done this and even more concerned if none of the Rabbits are vaccinated. I would establish what the situation is. RHD is rife nationwide. I would want the new Rabbit to be Vet checked and vaccinated ASAP if she hasn’t been done. Personally I wouldn’t buy from a Breeder who did not vaccinate.

Have you seen the health documentation for the Rabbit you are buying ? This should include details of her parents and grandparents as a minimum. There should also be proof of a pre sale Vet check.
Thank you for that link I will look into buying that, the breeder has said they will give me all the the parents and grandparents details and I am able to see the parents too, so far I have quite a few weeks before I am able to pick her up so I will make sure I ask a lot of questions about her parents health and the vet check.
 
Panacur 10% liquid (for cats & dogs) is easier to dose accurately, especially at the lower levels you are looking at. I find the syringes of paste fiddly and very variable in what they dispense - as well as a lot more expensive.

Hay is the best thing to keep teeth and guts in good condition. Chewing hay has a different action to eg chew 'toys'.

My preference is to have a rabbit vaccinated before they come to me. Failing that, maybe on the way home....less stress from another journey and they get health checked at the same time. Quarantining then allows time for the newbie to settle in to the new surroundings and schedules, and for any latent issues to show themselves.
Thank you I think that panacur sounds good and I will give it too her during the quarantine.
With the hay I will make sure she also always has plenty so hopefully that will contribute to preventing it.
Vaccinating on the journey back sounds like a great idea too me. I will definitely look into booking that for her once we know what time we will be picking her up
Thank you so much for your help 😀
 
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