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just some advice please

M

maggiebuns

Warren Scout
hi, i'm new here, just looking for some advise, i have two male house rabbits and have had to split them up a week ago,:cry: due to snuggles being very hormoanal,and coco trying to get away from him. i'm worried that they may start fighting if left together, they are booked in at the vets next friday to both be neutered, my question is will i have to re-bond them if so, how long should i leave the re-bonding after neutering,
 
maggiebuns said:
hi, i'm new here, just looking for some advise, i have two male house rabbits and have had to split them up a week ago,:cry: due to snuggles being very hormoanal,and coco trying to get away from him. i'm worried that they may start fighting if left together, they are booked in at the vets next friday to both be neutered, my question is will i have to re-bond them if so, how long should i leave the re-bonding after neutering,
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ive got 2 males. how old were they when you seperated them?
 
maggiebuns said:
hi, i'm new here, just looking for some advise, i have two male house rabbits and have had to split them up a week ago,:cry: due to snuggles being very hormoanal,and coco trying to get away from him. i'm worried that they may start fighting if left together, they are booked in at the vets next friday to both be neutered, my question is will i have to re-bond them if so, how long should i leave the re-bonding after neutering,
Click to expand...

Hello

You are very wise to separate them for now as entire Bucks can inflict serious injuries to one another.

You may well be able to rebond them. I'd leave any attempt to do so for at least 4 weeks after their neuter to allow them to fully recover and for their hormones to settle down.

I would keep them as far apart as possible in the meantime as if they wind each other up, even if they cant get at each other, then rebonding may well prove to be MUCH more difficult.

Good luck :)
 
coco is 5 months and snuggles is 6 months,they did have the run of the house until i split them up, now coco's downstairs and snuggles upstairs, i have had to block the stairs off as coco likes running up and down them, snuggles tried to follow him down but got stuck on the 3rd step down and coco the little monkey sat just a few steps below him as though to say you carn't catch me, they are both live wires :lol:
 
maggiebuns said:
coco is 5 months and snuggles is 6 months,they did have the run of the house until i split them up, now coco's downstairs and snuggles upstairs, i have had to block the stairs off as coco likes running up and down them, snuggles tried to follow him down but got stuck on the 3rd step down and coco the little monkey sat just a few steps below him as though to say you carn't catch me, they are both live wires :lol:
Click to expand...

ok mine are 14 weeks.
 
It might be easier for the rebonding if you keep an area of the house completely bunny free that will be your neutral zone, that will be where the bunnies will initially live when you rebond them, which will also give you a chance to neutralise the other areas.
 
blue_vix said:
It might be easier for the rebonding if you keep an area of the house completely bunny free that will be your neutral zone, that will be where the bunnies will initially live when you rebond them, which will also give you a chance to neutralise the other areas.
Click to expand...

thanks blue vix, i could shut my bedroom off its quite a big room, neutralize it, then do you think i should put both cages in there to start with, so they can see each other after they have recovered from the neutering
 
blue_vix said:
It might be easier for the rebonding if you keep an area of the house completely bunny free that will be your neutral zone, that will be where the bunnies will initially live when you rebond them, which will also give you a chance to neutralise the other areas.
Click to expand...

Excellent advise
 
maggiebuns said:
thanks blue vix, i could shut my bedroom off its quite a big room, neutralize it, then do you think i should put both cages in there to start with, so they can see each other after they have recovered from the neutering
Click to expand...

It is essential that you have somewhere which is neutral, if you put both in their individual cages in this room it will become unneutral.

The space should be only used when both are in the area together in the same space.

It is best to bond in one go on totally neutral territory in a small area, this is particuarly important with 2 males. I would leave at least 4 weeks, ideally longer before you bond to allow their hormone levels to decline.
 
janice said:
It is essential that you have somewhere which is neutral, if you put both in their individual cages in this room it will become unneutral.

The space should be only used when both are in the area together in the same space.

It is best to bond in one go on totally neutral territory in a small area, this is particuarly important with 2 males. I would leave at least 4 weeks, ideally longer before you bond to allow their hormone levels to decline.
Click to expand...

thanks janice for your advice, i have a small downstairs toilet, after reading what you said i think that will be the best option, i am just hopeing that they will re-bond, as snuggles seems to be missing coco's company he's become a lap-bunnie with my daughter he follows her everywhere where she sits he sits, if she comes downstairs he's waiting for her, coco on the other hand totaly oppersite he just binkys all round the living room :lol:
 
Maybe a little bit weird of me suggesting it.
But I can remember a member of the dutch rabbitforum, who's had a similar problem. They accepted each other, but deu to their hormones they were chasing each other. She also was afraid of fighting, so she parted them, took them to the vet and got them both castrated.
She didn't parted them after the castration. She put both of the buns in one cage, while they're were recovering from the anaesthesia. So they have support form each other, for they were in the same funrable situation.
Maybe it's a bit drastic. And for her it worked, and it's not a fact that it should work for other rabbits. But it's just additional info.
 
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