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  • Please Note - Medical Advice

    Please keep in mind that posts on this forum are from members of the public sharing personal opinions. It is not a replacement for qualified medical advice from a veterinarian. Many illnesses share similar symptoms but require different treatments. A medical exam is necessary for an accurate diagnosis, without which appropriate treatment cannot be given.

    You should always consult your vet before following any suggestions for medication or treatment you have read about. The wrong treatment could make your rabbit worse or mean your vet is unable to give the correct treatment because of drug interactions. Even non prescription drugs can do harm if given inappropriately.

    We are very grateful to members who take time to answer other members questions, but please do be clear in your replies that you are sharing personal experience and not giving instructions on what must be done.

    Urgent Medical Advice: If you need, or think you might need, urgent medical advice you should contact a vet. If it is out of working hours phone your vet's normal number and there should be an answer phone message with instructions on what to do.

Helping my aging bunny Recover <3

bunnyp

New Kit
Hi everyone,

This is a tough post for us, we are dealing with the aftermath of visiting the vet for our 8.5 y/o beloved dwarf.

The vet has diagnosed her with severe arthritis, and sore hocks from being a free roam bunny. There are some other issues going on, and vet suspects it could be cancer related.

Regardless of the reasons, the vet is asking me to consider compassionate euthanasia for my beloved baby girl. We just started metacam 2x/day and have made significant cozy improvements to living arrangements.

I dont know if this is the right place to post, so I'm sorry if it is not. How do I navigate making this decision, and how can I make the end of her life as happy and pain free as possible. She is very lively, happy to see us, you almost wouldnt know anything is wrong. I'm not ready to make this decision, unless her life becomes severely impacted, but I don't want to be selfish either.

Help from other rabbit owners who might understand what this is like :( and any advice on making the end of her days and beautiful as possible
 
If you don't feel the time is right, you don't need to make a decision to PTS just yet. It can be made at any time - there isn't a right or wrong answer if your rabbit still has an acceptable quality of life. Keep talking to your vet. There are treatments for arthritis (metacam is usually the first to try) and sore hocks (Inspector Morse is an expert on this). If she's mobile, eating well, maintaining her weight (weigh weekly), weeing and pooing normally and looks bright, then keep an eye on her and act on any deterioration. Some people are not able to give ongoing care or afford the vet fees, so may feel PTS is compassionate at an earlier stage to prevent suffering. Some rabbits don't cope with hands-on treatment. Some conditions may warrant a PTS sooner rather than later. Every case is different.

My own experience is that you know when the rabbit has had enough. You can tell when the spark is fading and they are enduring life rather than enjoying it. I aim to work with my vet to keep them comfortable on their own terms until the spark fades. Rabbits can often cope with a wide range of disabilities and the effects of old age and still have a decent quality of life, especially if their owner cares enough to continue to support them through the changes.

If you've not had it done recently, it may be worth getting a full blood profile done. It gives a good idea of how the major organs are performing and the general state of health. It can then be used as a basis for what may or may not be appropriate for future treatment options. It's not a big procedure but gives useful information.
 
There are several other options to manage the pain of arthritis, not just metacam. As well as other pharmacological options there are complimentary treatments too






Sore hocks frequently occur secondary to arthritis. The severity of the sore hocks varies too. How this condition is managed depends on the specific clinical presentation. Treatment must include analgesia. Antibiotics might be needed and the hocks might need to be dressed daily.



What makes your Vet think that your Rabbit might have cancer too ? Is your Rabbit spayed ? If not is it that the Vet suspects uterine adenocarcinoma ?


As stated by Shimmer if you believe that she is not yet at the stage where-by euthansia is appropriate you don’t have to agree with it being done. I would certainly want to make sure that all other options are discussed and that the Vet is ‘Rabbit Savvy’. Not all small animal Vets are very up to date with their knowledge about Rabbits.

 
Thank you both for your replies, honestly this is exactly why I joined the forum!

I do feel like while our vet today was great, she simply doesn't know my bunny like I do and we aren't done yet.

She mentioned cancer because Bunny is eating and drinking a lot, but she is at an all time low weight (approx 1.45 kg), down from 1.68kg in March during a GI stasis scare. The vet also said bunny has a slight head tilt and that her teeth are beginning to overgrow. She seemed heavier to me in recent weeks, up until this week where she did start to show signs of stress and isn't going to her hutch so much. She is on the thin side and I can feel her bones moreso, so the vet has had me double her pellet intake to see if we can put some of that back on.

I do think we are having a bad week from the stress, and she might not actually be losing that much weight. She does eat and drink a lot, and I am going to purchase a scale to do my own weekly weigh-ins. Her appetite and energy are normal, she asks for pets and love and is her usual self, though you can see the discomfort from her sore hocks (they have not yet ulcered but were on the verge) and she won't lay down as much.

While we waited for the vet I was bandaging her and administering Vaseline to create a barrier from any urine (due to incontinence that vet believes is related to the arthritis). She seemed to tolerate it for several hours and even loaf. I don't know if my bandages actually helped, because there was new scabbing today that was not previously present. We are going to pickup an antibiotic ointment that has been ordered from the vet tomorrow as well.

Her living quarters include rug carpeting and lots of cozy blankets, plus pee pads everywhere to prevent any new issues from being in urine by accident. I am currently changing these several times a day to keep up with her and prevent infections. We also just ordered flat litterboxes and will switch to those, and I have almost tripled my cleaning.

My main concerns are:

  • Vet said I should not bandage her hind paws because she is concerned about moisture being trapped, but I've read this is a viable and comfortable solution.
  • Bunny is limping at times and not weight bearing properly, as she is uncomfortable and likely in pain though I'm not seeing a huge difference in behaviour from the metacam we have administered thus far (no extra loafing/relaxing, just the typical amount and lots of sitting). Could this just be because she is wired to hide her pain?
  • If there are kidney issues, I could be making them worse with the metacam. Does anyone have any suggestions from experience that I can bring up to her vet?
  • I am going to look into the laser therapy, but I've also read massaging helps. Should I try to massage her spine and hind paws?
My current care plan is to keep up with her daily needs, and watch her waste products, food intake, and weigh ins. In an ideal world, I want to make her as comfortable and happy as possible, and have her go naturally.

Thank you so much for reading and helping us <3
 
Some ideas:

Has your vet considered EC? It's a parasite that causes issues with eg kidneys and neurological symptoms (like head tilt and hind leg weakness). It's excreted in the urine and reinfection by contact is common. Treatment is a 28 day course of oral Panacur to reduce the parasite loading (I use 10% dog & cat liquid version) and an NSAID such as Metacam (which she's already on) to reduce the neurological damage. It's cheap & easy to do if it's not contraindicated. You can get Panacur online with no prescription.

Rabbit teeth grow continually. It's not uncommon for issues to develop later in life and require spurs burring or crowns reshaping under general anaesthetic. Often it needs to be repeated at intervals, although that could be anything from monthly to anually. Keeping to a mainly hay / grass diet improves tooth wear and may help to reduce the gap between dentals. Readigrass is higher in calories & protein, so may be an option if you are trying to keep her weight up. You could also introduce additional syringe feeds of one of the recovery powdered food that you make up into a syringeable liquid. Adding a bit of eg baby food apple puree can help it flow better. Old Metacam syringes are a useful starter kit (they have a wide opening), although I tend to use 10ml or 20ml syringes.

Carpet / rugs can be quite harsh on rabbit feet and cause sore hocks (think carpet burn due to delicae skin & thin fur). Some people use flat fleece blankets, old duvet covers etc to cover them, or deep pile hay. Slippery floors can put rabbits off moving around, which also isn't good. Charity shops are a good source of duvet covers, curtains & similar which can be used as flooring.

Gardening potting bench trays make easy access litter / hay trays, if you have the space. Also helps to stop the floor underneath from being ruined by urine soaking through.
 
Kidney function would show as part of a full blood profile, as previously suggested. It's useful as a base line starting point for an older rabbit that is requiring additional treatment & procedures.
 
Some ideas:

Has your vet considered EC? It's a parasite that causes issues with eg kidneys and neurological symptoms (like head tilt and hind leg weakness). It's excreted in the urine and reinfection by contact is common. Treatment is a 28 day course of oral Panacur to reduce the parasite loading (I use 10% dog & cat liquid version) and an NSAID such as Metacam (which she's already on) to reduce the neurological damage. It's cheap & easy to do if it's not contraindicated. You can get Panacur online with no prescription.

Rabbit teeth grow continually. It's not uncommon for issues to develop later in life and require spurs burring or crowns reshaping under general anaesthetic. Often it needs to be repeated at intervals, although that could be anything from monthly to anually. Keeping to a mainly hay / grass diet improves tooth wear and may help to reduce the gap between dentals. Readigrass is higher in calories & protein, so may be an option if you are trying to keep her weight up. You could also introduce additional syringe feeds of one of the recovery powdered food that you make up into a syringeable liquid. Adding a bit of eg baby food apple puree can help it flow better. Old Metacam syringes are a useful starter kit (they have a wide opening), although I tend to use 10ml or 20ml syringes.

Carpet / rugs can be quite harsh on rabbit feet and cause sore hocks (think carpet burn due to delicae skin & thin fur). Some people use flat fleece blankets, old duvet covers etc to cover them, or deep pile hay. Slippery floors can put rabbits off moving around, which also isn't good. Charity shops are a good source of duvet covers, curtains & similar which can be used as flooring.

Gardening potting bench trays make easy access litter / hay trays, if you have the space. Also helps to stop the floor underneath from being ruined by urine soaking through.
Thank you!

No the vet did not mention EC, I'm just reading about it now and it does seem to be a viable option. We did a urinary test, and nothing came up, should this have showed?

Do owners put their pet rabbits on a round just to rule it out since its over the counter? Or would this cause possible issues. I will definitely ask her vet too, but I'd love to have some context.

I've asked about grinding her teeth down, and the vet was also concerned about putting Bunny under anesthesia at this age. I asked if we should do a dental xray, as opposed to just the oral, and the vet then said I should reconsider my priorities to make her life more comfortable as opposed to extending her life and causing more possible stress for her.

I've heard that carpeting can be rough on her, but she does actively choose the carpeted areas over the blanket covered areas. She does not sit on any of the hardwood in the house though. I'm hoping that if one was more comfortable than the other, she would show me by picking her blanketed areas? I will regardless pick up some extra sheets to put in her fav carpeted spot, but I'm just wondering what signs to look out for that I know it is working and shes responding well.

I will also look into readigrass thank you! Right now I've not limited any food from her and I give her anything she asks for. She does eat her grass, but she prefers her greens and pellets. I know that this could cause more issues - I feel like I am trying to play whack a mole and address anything imminent.
 
If you are not happy with your vet at this point, you can ask for a referral to a rabbit specialist, or look for one that you can register with via the RWAF website. Many vets don't have much training or experience in treating rabbits. Finding a rabbit-savvy one can make a big difference and may not cost more than your current vet. Ask about pricing eg for a standard consult, xrays, bloods, dentals, metacam, etc when you ask about their experience. I always 'interview' my vets before I let them loose on a rabbit (or cat / dog). I've used Frances Harcourt Brown in the past for specialist rabbit issues, but she's not practicing now. I would say she's 'retired', but I don't think that's entirely true. :LOL:

 
There's a good search facility on here if you want to look back at how others have dealt with issues such as pododermatitis (ie sore hocks), EC, dental issues, etc.

Button top right of the screen in the green banner
 
If you are not happy with your vet at this point, you can ask for a referral to a rabbit specialist, or look for one that you can register with via the RWAF website. Many vets don't have much training or experience in treating rabbits. Finding a rabbit-savvy one can make a big difference and may not cost more than your current vet. Ask about pricing eg for a standard consult, xrays, bloods, dentals, metacam, etc when you ask about their experience. I always 'interview' my vets before I let them loose on a rabbit (or cat / dog). I've used Frances Harcourt Brown in the past for specialist rabbit issues, but she's not practicing now. I would say she's 'retired', but I don't think that's entirely true. :LOL:


Oh yes, this is also a main issue for us. We have seen around 10~ vets throughout Bunny's life and while some have been better than others, there is a huge shortage of rabbit savvy specialists here in Canada. The one we were able to meet with today was familiar with rabbits and that was a bonus for us, but pet rabbits just aren't that common in my area or the surrounding 300km, so her experience can only vary so much.

I even mentioned what I thought might have been a seizure to her, but I was also unsure if Bunny just lost her footing and couldn't get back up and she did not bring up EC. I would very much want to do a round if it won't have adverse effects to rule it out.

Thank you so much for writing to me, I've been researching like crazy and I will do everything I can to bring my little bun back to full health. <3
 
You already got great advice from others, so I will just add my positive vibes you can manage her health issues until she and you are ready to say goodbye.
 
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