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Bonding Rabbits All Ended in Squeals!
- Thread starter rob699
- Start date
Rescue Centres taken from Rabbit Rehome
WORCESTERSHIRE
Hopper Haven and Littlefoot Sanctuary
Redditch Rabbit and Guinea Pig Rescue
Tel: 01527 545983 / Website / View Rabbits
RSPCA Kidderminster
Kidderminster
Tel: 01562 638897 / Website /
Worcestershire Animal Rescue Shelter
Hawthorn Lane, Deblins Green, near Malvern, WR13 5DB
Tel: 01905 831651 / Website /
Danemere Animal Rescue
The Common Farm, Plough Lane, Tibberton, Droitwich, WR9 7NG
Tel: 01905 345655 /
RSPCA small animals Worcester
12 Sansome Place, Worcester
Tel: 01905 841354 / Website /
WORCESTERSHIRE
Hopper Haven and Littlefoot Sanctuary
Redditch Rabbit and Guinea Pig Rescue
Tel: 01527 545983 / Website / View Rabbits
RSPCA Kidderminster
Kidderminster
Tel: 01562 638897 / Website /
Worcestershire Animal Rescue Shelter
Hawthorn Lane, Deblins Green, near Malvern, WR13 5DB
Tel: 01905 831651 / Website /
Danemere Animal Rescue
The Common Farm, Plough Lane, Tibberton, Droitwich, WR9 7NG
Tel: 01905 345655 /
RSPCA small animals Worcester
12 Sansome Place, Worcester
Tel: 01905 841354 / Website /
"Just another question, can a female spay be quite dangerous for a rabbit?"
There is a small risk with regards to the GA and from infection after the op - this would be true for any animal or indeed any human having his/her belly cut open. The best advise I can give is to find a vet who has done lots and lots of spaying rabbits and to keep a very close eye on the wound after it is done. I'm sure other members or indeed the vet can advise you further on "bunny aftercare" but my answer is "yes" there IS a risk in having this op done but the benefits of having it done outweigh this risk.
There is a small risk with regards to the GA and from infection after the op - this would be true for any animal or indeed any human having his/her belly cut open. The best advise I can give is to find a vet who has done lots and lots of spaying rabbits and to keep a very close eye on the wound after it is done. I'm sure other members or indeed the vet can advise you further on "bunny aftercare" but my answer is "yes" there IS a risk in having this op done but the benefits of having it done outweigh this risk.
"Just another question, can a female spay be quite dangerous for a rabbit?"
There is a small risk with regards to the GA and from infection after the op - this would be true for any animal or indeed any human having his/her belly cut open. The best advise I can give is to find a vet who has done lots and lots of spaying rabbits and to keep a very close eye on the wound after it is done. I'm sure other members or indeed the vet can advise you further on "bunny aftercare" but my answer is "yes" there IS a risk in having this op done but the benefits of having it done outweigh this risk.
how very well put!!!
If I were you I would get her spayed asap. As she might be pregnant, you need to get her spayed really soon or wait until after all possibililty of pregnancy has passed. Tell you vet that she might be pregnant and he will tell you how many days after conception he is prepared to do an emergency spay on.
honeybunny
Wise Old Thumper
Just to add a male can remain fertile for up to 6 weeks after neuter..and I really hope the poor little thing isn't pregnant...
well even if your rabbit didn't get her pregnant, it sounds like she may have already been mated by the previous owner's rabbits if she was in a group of 4 - or had he seperated the sexes?
Like honeybunny says - your boy will be fertile 6 weeks AFTER his neuter too, so keep them seperate.
You really need to find a good vet to get this girl spayed this week - or there will probably be babies in 4 weeks time, and she's really too young to cope (and note - she can get pregnant again immediately after giving birth, so keep them seperate still)
A good rabbit vet will use isofluorane gas anaesthetic, which is much lower risk than what they use for cats and dogs, will give post-op painkillers, and will do invisible stitches, as rabbits are notorious for pulling them out (and wearing a collar isn't ideal as rabbits need to eat their squishy poops) - Never starve a rabbit before surgery, and do keep them warm and try to encourage them to eat and drink from a dish afterwards - or it's back to the vets in a day because rabbits MUST keep eating constantly (hay hay and more hay).
You will still need to get your boy neutered even when she's spayed, as she's unlikely to tolerate being mounted constantly.
Like honeybunny says - your boy will be fertile 6 weeks AFTER his neuter too, so keep them seperate.
You really need to find a good vet to get this girl spayed this week - or there will probably be babies in 4 weeks time, and she's really too young to cope (and note - she can get pregnant again immediately after giving birth, so keep them seperate still)
A good rabbit vet will use isofluorane gas anaesthetic, which is much lower risk than what they use for cats and dogs, will give post-op painkillers, and will do invisible stitches, as rabbits are notorious for pulling them out (and wearing a collar isn't ideal as rabbits need to eat their squishy poops) - Never starve a rabbit before surgery, and do keep them warm and try to encourage them to eat and drink from a dish afterwards - or it's back to the vets in a day because rabbits MUST keep eating constantly (hay hay and more hay).
You will still need to get your boy neutered even when she's spayed, as she's unlikely to tolerate being mounted constantly.
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Help Bonding Rabbits
Wonder if anyone can help me I have been trying for 3 months now to bond an existing spayed female Poppet (just over 1year old) to a baby male (he's 5months old). Boris Think I have done everything all wrong and feel like just giving up - it's so stressful !
It's a long story...brought Boris home (he was 8 wks old) and put him straight into another hutch in another room and let Poppet through to sniff about, next day let them both out together in the spare room - didn't go well and they had a fight which we broke up immediately. Continued to keep them in separate rooms but Poppet would come through and sit beside his hutch and watch him (poop and pee all round the hutch). Decided to move Boris into her room but still in separate hutch, unfortunately he managed to get out and they had another fight which lasted 10 mins (I was in another room) - each had a couple of bites but there was more of Poppet's fluff on the floor than Boris's.
Moved Boris back into the other room....they have had another fight (about 6 wks ago)...still upsets me to think about it coz we weren't in the house at the time.
Boris got neutred 2 wks ago now so think this will be my last attempt at trying to bond them....
Just want to know if I am on the right tracks or if after 2 fights they are never gonna get on....can anyone help at my wits end
Cheers guys
Wonder if anyone can help me
I have been trying for 3 months now to bond an existing spayed female Poppet (just over 1year old) to a baby male (he's 5months old). Boris Think I have done everything all wrong and feel like just giving up - it's so stressful !It's a long story...brought Boris home (he was 8 wks old) and put him straight into another hutch in another room and let Poppet through to sniff about, next day let them both out together in the spare room - didn't go well and they had a fight which we broke up immediately. Continued to keep them in separate rooms but Poppet would come through and sit beside his hutch and watch him (poop and pee all round the hutch). Decided to move Boris into her room but still in separate hutch, unfortunately he managed to get out and they had another fight which lasted 10 mins (I was in another room) - each had a couple of bites but there was more of Poppet's fluff on the floor than Boris's.
Moved Boris back into the other room....they have had another fight (about 6 wks ago)...still upsets me to think about it coz we weren't in the house at the time.
Boris got neutred 2 wks ago now so think this will be my last attempt at trying to bond them....
Just want to know if I am on the right tracks or if after 2 fights they are never gonna get on....can anyone help at my wits end
Cheers guys
Good post :thumb:
I have no previous experience of bonding rabbits and as a result would imagine others will be able to help you far better than I. However, I would *think* that bonding two rabbits is a gradual process whereby you would keep them close yet seperated for a while (just to get them used to each others smell and such) before letting them loose together??:?
I think that you are very probably on the right track in allowing them to share a room but with one in hutch but I am not too sure how long you would keep doing this for before "risking" them loose...
I would also imagine that Boris is likely to be calmer now neutered so maybe you will have more luck this time??
Sorry I can't help you more but all the very best with it. TP
I think that you are very probably on the right track in allowing them to share a room but with one in hutch but I am not too sure how long you would keep doing this for before "risking" them loose...
I would also imagine that Boris is likely to be calmer now neutered so maybe you will have more luck this time??
Sorry I can't help you more but all the very best with it. TP
I had two a male neutered and introduced a female about two months after his neuter. She was unneutered but I didnt think it would matter. They fought and I tried again and they fought again and she ended up with stitches. I thought it wouldnt then work but got her neutered as you just should. Then tried again and instant success!!!
whilst they had lived next to each other all that time they didnt meet after the original fight. The key (I think) is to GET THEM NEUTERED!!!! Wait a while then try
whilst they had lived next to each other all that time they didnt meet after the original fight. The key (I think) is to GET THEM NEUTERED!!!! Wait a while then try
to sum all of the posts on sucessful bonding that there have been:
male & female generally work best than visa versa although this is not fool proof
They should be neutered and have plenty of time for hormones to die down (usually 2 weeks plus, more if male to un/recently neutered female)
Do it on 100% neutral terretory in a space big enough for some room if fights break out but small enough that they don't hide......about 6ft by 4 ft is idea.
have at least 1 litter tray per bun
throw in some tasty green a good diversion tactic
humping and chasing is normal don't intervene, biting and locking on not do intervene but be well prpared (i.e. oven mitts, wrap up well & possibly use a broom or a water pistol.
try not to panic or be stressed. The more tense you are, the worse they will be.
male & female generally work best than visa versa although this is not fool proof
They should be neutered and have plenty of time for hormones to die down (usually 2 weeks plus, more if male to un/recently neutered female)
Do it on 100% neutral terretory in a space big enough for some room if fights break out but small enough that they don't hide......about 6ft by 4 ft is idea.
have at least 1 litter tray per bun
throw in some tasty green a good diversion tactic
humping and chasing is normal don't intervene, biting and locking on not do intervene but be well prpared (i.e. oven mitts, wrap up well & possibly use a broom or a water pistol.
try not to panic or be stressed. The more tense you are, the worse they will be.
I have actually found its best not to use a litter tray during bonding. One rabbit tends to claim ownership of it as a safe place to sit and because as they are trained to defecate in it they inadvertently 'mark' it as their territory. This can lead to disputes if the other rabbit approaches the litter tray.
This only seems to work with actual 3D objects, newspaper on the floor seems to be fine.
This only seems to work with actual 3D objects, newspaper on the floor seems to be fine.
Do you actually want your female rabbit to have babies or not? I'm just wondering why you tried to bond two un-neutered rabbits of the opposite sex as this obviously will leave open the potential for her to get pregnant.
Personally I'd recommend getting your girl done asap as this will avoid possible unwanted kits and also it cuts out the need to wait six weeks after the male neuter as she obviously cannot get pregnant.
Personally I'd recommend getting your girl done asap as this will avoid possible unwanted kits and also it cuts out the need to wait six weeks after the male neuter as she obviously cannot get pregnant.
