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Greetings! :)

CinnamonBunny

Young Bun
Hi, my name is Stephanie and I am 16 years old. I am the proud owner of 2, 1 year old guinea pigs called Bradley and Barney. I am currently studying Animal Management at college 4 days a week and I'm looking in to getting a rabbit. Obviously, I don't want to rush in to this decision so I've come here to learn about rabbits, how to care for them, what size hutch/cage they need etc. I've read a few books about rabbits so far, unfortunately they seem to contradict themselves! :? Hopefully I can get a lot more info on here. :)
 
Hello and welcome, hope you find some useful advice here :wave:

Feel free to ask any questions :wave:
 
Hiya! :wave:

Forget the books, they're all wrong! Ask us instead! Hang on a tick...

I posted this on another thread a while back, but hopefully you'll find it helpful too:

Have you considered adopting your bun/s from a rescue centre? There are so many unwanted fluffbundles looking for a good home. There's bound to be a rescue centre near you with somebun special.

http://www.rabbitrehome.org.uk/sear...ze=3&Size=4&County=Cheshire&Submit=++Search++


The most important thing a rabbit needs to keep it happy is another rabbit!! In the wild, rabbits naturally live in large groups, so it's really only fair to keep them in pairs or groups. I definately recommend looking for a pair that have already been neutered and bonded (most rescues do this before rehoming anyway!) as this will work out cheaper and far less stressful in the long run.

Buns also need plenty of space as they're incredibly active. The hutch will need to be at least 6ft long, 2ft high and 2ft wide and ideally 2 or 3 stories high. Do you have a shed at all? A shed makes an ideal rabbit playground, as it's suitable for use in all weathers and predator-proof. You can also add different levels to a shed (a storage chest, chair and low, wide shelves for example) to add space and interest to their environment.

The hutch and/or shed will need a large run attached, so your rabbit can have fun and exercise outside even without supervision. This will need to be predator-proof, including having a secure lid and strong mesh buried beneath the grass to prevent anything digging in, or them digging out. A shallow box filled with sand, soil or compost is a nice addition, as this allows them to dig as they would in the wild.

Everybun needs some good quality toys - tunnels and boxes for hiding in are ideal, and smaller toys they can pick up and throw are important too. Wooden and other natural toys are preferable to plastic as they're less likely to cause harm when chewed, although it's best to buy specialy made bunny toys, or build your own, to insure they're made from rabbit-safe materials.

They will need neutering and vaccinating to keep them healthy, and preferably worming and rearguard as well. Their claws will also need clipping every few weeks too. A great rabbit vet is a must, so feel free to ask them questions before signing up with a practice! Unfortuantely, buns are very good at hiding illness, so you'll need to keep a close eye on them and give them a thorough check every day to insure all is well. If a rabbit stops eating, drinking, peeing or pooing it's seriously ill and will need emergency vet treatment. It's actually a good idea to get a 'rabbit first aid kit' together now, just in case. A small feeding syrienge and a packet or 2 of 'recovery diet' or 'critical care' are must-haves.

To prevent illness, you'll need to keep the hutch scrupulously clean. It's best to 'skip out' any dirty bedding and droppings at least twice a day, then scrub the hutch out with rabbit-safe disenfectant once a week to kill any 'nasties'. Buns pee and poo a lot, so it's best to littertrain them. Do a search for 'litter training' on here for hints and tips.

A limitless supply of fresh hay is essential. Hay should make up around 80-90% of a rabbit's diet, as it's vitally important in keeping their teeth and gut healthy. Pet shop hay doesn't tend to be very good quality, so check out www.thehayexperts.co.uk for a decent selection. Readigrass is usually a big hit! Pellets aren't vital, but most rabbit owners feed them (about an eggcupful a day for a medium sized rabbit) to help cover dietry requirements. It's best to scatter these in the hutch to provide enrichment by encouraging natural 'foraging' behaviour. It goes without saying that they need constant access to clean, fresh drinking water. In my experience buns actually prefer a bowl, but a drinking bottle will do. This needs changing at least once a day - after all, we wouldn't like to drink stale water! Veg is important too, so do a search for different kinds they're allowed.

While you're getting to know them, it's a good idea to hand feed them, at least with their favourite foods. Try not to pick them up from the hutch (many rabbits feel threatened by this, and can become aggressive in order to guard their 'territory') but coax them out into the run with treats before picking them up. Lie on the ground and let them come to you - it's a big confidence boost for a bunny to see you on their level, not as a scary monster towering above them. Don't feel upset or unloved if it takes a while for them to bond with you though - it'll happen in good time.

Sorry for the long post! Hopefully you'll find it helpful anyway!
 
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Hello and welcome! :wave: Good luck in finding the right bunny. I adopted my bunny from someone who could no longer give him all the time and care he needed, and it was one of the best things I've ever done. :love:
 
Thanks everyone!

My rabbits will be house rabbits and I am seriously considering getting rescues, I adopted my 2 guinea pigs from a rescue :)

Unfortunately I don't have much of a garden (it's dog kennels with a little bit of garden at the back.) If I do get rabbits they will have lots of one to one attention and hopefully go for walkies with me lol. I'm looking around to get the best cage I can for them. I was wondering if a rabbit can ever live happily on its own? Or is a pair the best option?

Thanks :)
 
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