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Grass make their poops darker & smaller?

C

chelle

Warren Veteran
Hi all!:wave:

Hope this hasnt been asked recently - else Ive not searched properly!:oops:

My buns have been intro outside lately & been on the grass - theres lots of clover type stuff & some other "furry" type weed thats fgrowing randonly...they have absolutly loved it - Arrabella DID NOT want to come in thank you very much!:roll::lol:

Anywa - noticed their main poops are darker & slightly smaller - would tis be due to the grass?

Not changed their pellets at all,, they could eat abit more hay - but generally eat alot by each morning when i check on them....and they do have excess caetrophs (sorry about spelling?)...

I would reduce their pellets buy Indiana is still abit underweight & so am letting them have a small handful each morning, evening & a few sprinkled to get them into their cage for sleeps! So may be abit much but tyring to get them to gain abit of weight!

sorry - gone abit on......any ideas about darker smaller main poops?:?

Thanks for reading my ramblings!:oops:
 
I bring in handfulls of grass for Bix and Badge and they munch it but it does lead to tiny dark poops. Just make sure they get plenty of hay (roughage) too and make sure they don't go mad!

The spring/summer grass is packed full of nutrition and goodness, but that includes a lot of water. Might make them a bit runny too.

Just keep your eye on them as always :)
 
Thanks Biscuits Mum!:D

Mine have been in the run yesterday eveing for a few hours.....but their poops are still darker today like now?
Is their digestive system that slow?:shock:

Im making sure they eating their meadow & timothy hay.....thanks!:p

Where have all the golden poos gone?:shock::lol::lol::lol:
 
You only need to worry about small DRY pale droppings, not the small dark ones after eating grass. This does not indicate a slow down of the guts at all unless the QUANTITY diminishes. Rabbits can survive on grass alone, hay is just dried grass after all. The reason the waste poops are smaller is because there is less waste fibre, as more of fresh grass is usuable nutrition than when it is dried as hay, water content plays quite a large part. Grass is still very high in fibre and contains abrasive silicates needed for dental wear so don't worry.
Lots of large golden poops if bun is only eating hay is just as good as lots of small dark poops when bun has been on grass - the time for concern is LACK of droppings, or if the golden dry ones become smaller. :):wave:
 
prettylupin said:
You only need to worry about small DRY pale droppings, not the small dark ones after eating grass. This does not indicate a slow down of the guts at all unless the QUANTITY diminishes. Rabbits can survive on grass alone, hay is just dried grass after all. The reason the waste poops are smaller is because there is less waste fibre, as more of fresh grass is usuable nutrition than when it is dried as hay, water content plays quite a large part. Grass is still very high in fibre and contains abrasive silicates needed for dental wear so don't worry.
Lots of large golden poops if bun is only eating hay is just as good as lots of small dark poops when bun has been on grass - the time for concern is LACK of droppings, or if the golden dry ones become smaller. :):wave:
Click to expand...

wow - thats so helpful! Thank you so much!:D
Im alot less worried - theres loads of dark pellets - so none lacking there!:)

So if a rabbit just had pellets & had access to grass - would they be healthy?
I know a rabbit that generally ignores their hay - but has access to grass & muesli mix....
 
chelle said:
So if a rabbit just had pellets & had access to grass - would they be healthy?
I know a rabbit that generally ignores their hay - but has access to grass & muesli mix....
Click to expand...

Depends how much pelleted/muesli feed they are getting and how many plant species are accessible in the grass they have contact with really. The ideal diet for a rabbit is one which is high in fibre and low in nutrients.
Wild buns have access to quite an abundance of forage - from different grass species, to wild plants/weeds, bark, roots, seeds/fruits etc. which of course changes throughout the season. Residential lawns are often just one type of grass lacking in variety and buns in runs have no access often to tree bark, roots and other wild plants that would normally form most of their diet. Muesli mixes are ok provided bun doesn't feed selectively but they are high in carbohydrates and nutrition so really should only be fed in a very restricted way, the rest of the diet should be a good variety of indigestible fibrous plant material.... which a lawn in someone's garden may not be.

I don't feed my buns pellets or muesli mix, but they get a variety of grasses from a locally grown hay, substituted with other hays and an array of dried and fresh weeds, herbs, other safe plants, veggies, and tree bark and leaves from the garden. Variety is key really. :)
 
Thanks prettylupin!:D

I think he would need abit more variety....than he has like oyu say - there is bark there - though the right kind im not sure....and he gets veges....and a little of some meadow hay ....:?

Wow - your buns meals sound like a feast....how do you know what all the grassess & plants are?!:shock:

I didnt grow up here - but would love to be able to give my girls a natural diet thats just right for them.....

Ive 2 dwarf lops - female sisters - who are 3/4 months....they get:
Pets at home junior pellets (ones abit underweight)...
meadow hay ( I bought a bale),
timothy hay (packet stuff - cant find a supplier - buns love it)
Access to run on grass -supervised - a few hours or half a day

Now & then:
Brussel sprout each - no more than one each
Basil leaves (about 4 each-loved them but slight runs)
Flat leafed parsley ( 2 sprigs each - loved too but also got the runs abit)
Excel forage
Dandelions leaves - a large one each

They have had apple, banana when ill after I got them - but I dont generally give them these as I know they not good.

Seems like I intro greens really gradually & they love them but then get upset tums and i give them such a small amount....but surely they need greens & veges?
Can they live on pellets, hay & grass and they will be healthy?

Would you kindly suggest a list or some suggestions of your kind of diet to start off with?

Do you have to keep to a budget?:oops:....Ive not got loads of money - but am happy to grow or resouce as much as poss...

many many thanks!;)
 
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Well they're only 3/4 months old so their guts are still relatively immature and it can take many months for the caecal flora to adapt to a diet high in vegetables and plants, IF the caecal flora is used to something quite different e.g. pellets.
I think at their age you can certainly begin to reduce the pellets in their diet, increase the amount of hay, and slowly begin to introduce veg. I know you say they react with upset tums now, but this is probably a combination of a diet too high in starch (pellets) which means the caecal flora aren't a good balance... and also their age.

All dietary changes must be made slowly, but I would slowly reduce their pellet consumption over several weeks so they are down to an eggcup full each per day, and I would consider slowly blending in a different pellet, one which is higher in fibre, as this will help the caecum indirectly. P@H pellets aren't very high in fibre and renound for causing upset. Something like Oxbow bunny basics, Allen and Page or Science Selective I believe are better. As you reduce the pellets I would try to introduce some new hays. Have you tried the hay samples from the hayexperts? https://www.thehayexperts.co.uk/Hay...le+Pack.23/?osCsid=9kj13krvimtm512rne0mfnmpo1
I get my hay from here (but carriage is expensive unfortunately) but it is wonderful hay: http://www.willowwarren.co.uk/proddetail.asp?prod=trh2
My buns get through two large boxes every 6-8 weeks but they eat A LOT!
A local farm with horse quality hay should do a good sweet green meadow hay by the bale very cheaply. But you will need somewhere to store it and it will take 2 buns a while to get through it.

As you reduce the pellets and up the hay, don't worry about increasing the veg at this point, your bun's caecums will begin to adapt and colonise the bacteria in different ratios due to a faster gut motility. You can now start to try new and more veggies slowly, but only once every 48-72 hours as this is how long it takes for the caecum to react and cause an upset tummy.
Start off with small bits as you are doing, and begin with plants and veggies least likely to cause upset. Do you have an apple tree? Apple tree leaves are wonderful for buns :D Dandelions are great, shouldn't cause upset either. I also feed fresh meadow grass, ribwort plantain, goosegrass/cleavers, sometimes bramble leaves (thorns removed), sow thistles and mallow if I can find them, Hazel branches and leaves, jerusalem artichoke leaves, mint, lemonbalm, marjoram, thyme (many of these grow in the garden and the rest we pick from a safe part of our city cemetery where nothing is sprayed by the Council, or from the New Forest).
Shop bought brocoli or calabrese but NOT cabbages unless homegrown as although one of my buns is fine with them, our lop gets upset from cabbage. Dwarf lops, it seems, do tend to get upset easier with certain veg than other buns... I don't know why :?
The cabbage family - brussels, cabbages, cauliflower, brocoli etc are all renound for causing upset with some buns so I would leave these out for now. Everytime you get upset you set the caecum back a bit in getting a good balance so it's best to stick with the plants less likely to cause upset to begin with. Once caecal flora is well established buns cope better with change.

I'd recommend the TOPS of most veggies - carrot tops, radish tops, pea tops, celery tops/leaves - I feed mine a lot of these. Also coriander, basil, mint, parsley, thyme, marjoram BUT I only buy these from a certain supermarket (Waitrose) as find the chlorine used to wash them in other supermarkets (and to act as a preservative) causes upset especially Tescos! :shock: I soak all shop bought veg in a bowl of water and then rinse it off before feeding. I know others on here find their buns are ok with Sainsburys.
If you have a garden try and grow as much as you can yourself, and if you can find somewhere safe to pick things from the countryside (no dog soiling or chemical spraying or car fumes - so well away from any roads) then take someone with you who knows how to identify certain safe weeds or buy a good book. There are a few on the RWAF shop site.
http://www.rabbitwelfare.co.uk/resources/content/info-sheets/safefoods.htm
This is a wonderful list - my buns love marigolds and nasturtiums!

Take your time, let their tummies adjust slowly, IMO it takes up to age 9 months-1 year for a young bun on the right diet to properly establish a good caecal balance of bacteria. :):wave:
 
Their poops are made up from lots of little sections of grass/hay so the colour varies depending what the eat. You'll even see a difference between eating yellowy hay and green coloured hay :)
 
Thankyou ever so much PrettyLupin for writing so much information! Absolutley amazing info - Ive got lotsa research to do now & lots to learn! Doesnt ever stop - does it!:shock::lol::lol:
I sometimes forget how very young they still are as they have grown so fast - even though they are little still - everyones always syain ghow much they have grown - so of course.....slowly slowly does it!

Thanks you so much - i think i may have to start a scrap book with photos 7 infor with a diet plan on it to get started!:lol::lol::lol: Else Ill forget what all the plants are & what theyve had to eat!

Thanks once again - so so helpful - hopefully I can start weaning them off thier pellest......guess i best wait till they abit older as Indiana is still abit skinny I think....

Will start looking at different pellets too - should I start to put the into adult ones now?

Thanks again!:love::love:

Thanks Tamsin - wow - different poops for different hays!:lol::lol::lol: My gardens gonna look colourful!

Should meadow hay always look greenish if fresh?
Im eagerly awaiting the new harvest in june or july for my buns! :p
 
I guess you could call greenish coloured hay more fresh but it's partly to do with when it's cut and how long it takes to dry. Brownish coloured hay has lots of fibre but less nutrients. Green hay is closer to grass. As long as it smells good it's fine to eat :)
 
There's definitely a distinction between brown hay and golden hay though!
Brown hay I agree is lower in nutrients as it is likely to be dead blades. But golden hay is just as good as green - it has just ripened for longer so later cropped hay which is tougher and golden is the same as the green fresh hay - just as fresh, but riper :D
 
Hi guys!

OK - so good smelling fresh hay thats green or golden it great! well......hoping we have a good harvest near me.....just need ot find a better storage place - last bale got abit wet! - so had to throw aload away....

Hear that timothy hay is sometimes too rich? I though it was good for them - and is there a difference btween this amercan & english timothy hay? Starting to ocst me abit - I buy it by bag and thougha bale would bt better ut reckon the bags we get form the shops are american timothy hay.:?
thanks guys for your help & advice! My buns love their hay - so def want to make sure it stays that way!:lol::lol::love:
 
chelle said:
Hi guys!

OK - so good smelling fresh hay thats green or golden it great! well......hoping we have a good harvest near me.....just need ot find a better storage place - last bale got abit wet! - so had to throw aload away....

Hear that timothy hay is sometimes too rich? I though it was good for them - and is there a difference btween this amercan & english timothy hay? Starting to ocst me abit - I buy it by bag and thougha bale would bt better ut reckon the bags we get form the shops are american timothy hay.:?
thanks guys for your help & advice! My buns love their hay - so def want to make sure it stays that way!:lol::lol::love:
Click to expand...

Hay is best stored somewhere below 40% humidity. We store our boxes in the house in a room above where the hot water pipes run through the floorboards as this keeps the hay nice and dry and low humidity. Any room in the house away from kitchen/cooking smells or wet washing, or a dry garage/shed will be fine.

America tends to get more sun than us so they are able to get two cuts of hay into the growing year for timothy (which is the slowest growing grass), whereas here in UK weather really only allows for one cut - so it tends to be longer and more golden (mature) than the bright green first cuts of American timothy hay. The people I use ship about a 1/3 to 1/2 bale in a large box...
http://www.willowwarren.co.uk/ but it is timothy rich so has other grasses in it too - which is a good variety for bunny.
Timothy hay is never too rich in my book - I don't know where you heard that? :? It's very high in fibre and low in protein which is ideal. :D
 
This is a brilliant thread thanks Tamsin and pretty Lupin I have found it very informative, have answered a lot of questions that I prob would have had to trawel through many threads to get :thumb:
 
prettylupin said:
Well they're only 3/4 months old so their guts are still relatively immature and it can take many months for the caecal flora to adapt to a diet high in vegetables and plants, IF the caecal flora is used to something quite different e.g. pellets.
I think at their age you can certainly begin to reduce the pellets in their diet, increase the amount of hay, and slowly begin to introduce veg. I know you say they react with upset tums now, but this is probably a combination of a diet too high in starch (pellets) which means the caecal flora aren't a good balance... and also their age.

All dietary changes must be made slowly, but I would slowly reduce their pellet consumption over several weeks so they are down to an eggcup full each per day,:) Would you reduce their pellest to an eggcup each a day even though they so young? I just thought they were supposed to get unlimited acces to pellets until 1 years old - Ive not done this - Ive given them about a small handful each a day - plus sprinked into their cage to get them in at night? I though they had to have alot(ish) for their nutrients as they are growing? and I would consider slowly blending in a different pellet, one which is higher in fibre, as this will help the caecum indirectly. P@H pellets aren't very high in fibre and renound for causing upset. Something like Oxbow bunny basics, Allen and Page or Science Selective I believe are better. :)Thanks - I wasnt aware of the fibre content - just the protein - so went on a mission - only to find that all 3 brands oyu suggested was not sold at pets at home where I went....I compared their brand fibre conteb=nt & it was really low compared ot the Excel brand. So - they were on Junior PatH pellets- Ive now got a few scoops f patH adult pellest & have strated to blend them with Burgess Excell (Adults 16+ weeks) - the info on this 2 KG bag is:

Beneficial fibre: 39%
Crude fibre: 19%
Protein: 13%
Oil: 3%
Ash: 5.5%
Calcium: 0.9%
Phosphorous: .51%

Im hopin ghtat the fibre content is good enough? Is the other 3 brands you mentioned (I can try to still find them - I was just rushing yesterday) better than Excel perhaps?As you reduce the pellets I would try to introduce some new hays. Have you tried the hay samples from the hayexperts? Ive seen hay experts - its just about moeny at the moment & theWillow warren I found too a while ago - looks reat but also though abit expensive!:? shame really - as id much rather support someplace like that than a "petshop" type place....https://www.thehayexperts.co.uk/Hay...le+Pack.23/?osCsid=9kj13krvimtm512rne0mfnmpo1
I get my hay from here (but carriage is expensive unfortunately) but it is wonderful hay: http://www.willowwarren.co.uk/proddetail.asp?prod=trh2
My buns get through two large boxes every 6-8 weeks but they eat A LOT!
A local farm with horse quality hay should do a good sweet green meadow hay by the bale very cheaply. But you will need somewhere to store it and it will take 2 buns a while to get through it.

As you reduce the pellets and up the hay, don't worry about increasing the veg at this point, ok....they dont really get much vege at all really - Arrabella has had funny muddy looking large poos the ast few days - they were out in their run for a few hours - so thought perhaps it was too much grass - so have kept them indoors & given them their new pellets - with the higher fibre & lots of hay - which they lie. Her poos are slowly becoming better & more goldeny...but they seem massive still! About double the normal smallpoop Ive seen! Is this normal? These big ones are about 5-7mm long and are abit oblong too?:?your bun's caecums will begin to adapt and colonise the bacteria in different ratios due to a faster gut motility. You can now start to try new and more veggies slowly, but only once every 48-72 hours as this is how long it takes for the caecum to react and cause an upset tummy.
Start off with small bits as you are doing, and begin with plants and veggies least likely to cause upset. Do you have an apple tree? Apple tree leaves are wonderful for buns :D My inlaws have some apple tress....so I can pick them fresh & feed? Could I pick some & dry them to add later to their hay? they would keep the nutrients etc when dried?
Dandelions are great, shouldn't cause upset either. I also feed fresh meadow grass, ribwort plantain, goosegrass/cleavers, sometimes bramble leaves (thorns removed), sow thistles and mallow if I can find them, Hazel branches and leaves, jerusalem artichoke leaves, mint, lemonbalm, marjoram, thyme (many of these grow in the garden and the rest we pick from a safe part of our city cemetery where nothing is sprayed by the Council, or from the New Forest).
Shop bought brocoli or calabrese but NOT cabbages unless homegrown as although one of my buns is fine with them, our lop gets upset from cabbage. Dwarf lops, it seems, do tend to get upset easier with certain veg than other buns... I don't know why :?good to know - thanks!:D
The cabbage family - brussels, cabbages, cauliflower, brocoli etc are all renound for causing upset with some buns so I would leave these out for now. oooh - ok - Ive been giving them half to maybe one bruseel now & then! will leave for abit!Everytime you get upset you set the caecum back a bit in getting a good balance so it's best to stick with the plants less likely to cause upset to begin with. Once caecal flora is well established buns cope better with change. thats helpful - thanks!

I'd recommend the TOPS of most veggies - carrot tops, radish tops, pea topssorry - what are pea tops? I have mangetout growing in my garden - can they eat the hwole plant - leaves, flowers 7 pods? , celery tops/leaves - I feed mine a lot of these. Also coriander, basil, mint, parsley, thyme, marjoram Are herbs like you mentioned part of the less likely to cause upset tums? So a good starting point? Are they able to eat rosemary & english/french lavender?:shock: BUT I only buy these from a certain supermarket (Waitrose) as find the chlorine used to wash them in other supermarkets (and to act as a preservative) causes upset especially Tescos! :shock: I soak all shop bought veg in a bowl of water and then rinse it off before feeding. I know others on here find their buns are ok with Sainsburys.
If you have a garden try and grow as much as you can yourself, and if you can find somewhere safe to pick things from the countryside (no dog soiling or chemical spraying or car fumes - so well away from any roads) then take someone with you who knows how to identify certain safe weeds or buy a good book. There are a few on the RWAF shop site. thanks - will have a look.....
http://www.rabbitwelfare.co.uk/resources/content/info-sheets/safefoods.htm
This is a wonderful list - my buns love marigolds and nasturtiums!

Take your time, let their tummies adjust slowly, IMO it takes up to age 9 months-1 year for a young bun on the right diet to properly establish a good caecal balance of bacteria. :):wave:
Click to expand...
wow = bless them...thats the thing - its difficult to know how to do it & when as they both react differently & in the wild would have porb eaten most things already and adjusted slowly themselves.....I hate it when I try to do the right thing & then they get uset tums - esp. when they seem to love the vege they just ate!:lol::love:

I also wanted to ask - I have alot of bulbs that are bluebell bulds or hyacinth type things - they spreadlike mad and Im always trying to get rid of them - anyway - they are in the lawn in the exact area where their run is going to be when we go away....Im so worried that they will eat these bulds and get sick! We have cut the lawn so you cant see them alot- but I want to dig the whole area up & then relay the grass - but the grass would need time to settle & we go away in 2 weeks time - so would then be worried the buns would dig out with the newly laid soft grass. I thought I could lay some paving slabs over this bulb area & sort out when we get back properly - but you know how buns are - they always find what you trying to hide! Abit concerned as I wont be here to watch them etc - its the neighbour & my sister....just abit worried....any thoughts on this? thanks so so much for this loooooooooooooooooong info youve given me! much appreciated! :love:
 
prettylupin said:
Hay is best stored somewhere below 40% humidity. We store our boxes in the house in a room above where the hot water pipes run through the floorboards as this keeps the hay nice and dry and low humidity. Any room in the house away from kitchen/cooking smells or wet washing, or a dry garage/shed will be fine.

America tends to get more sun than us so they are able to get two cuts of hay into the growing year for timothy (which is the slowest growing grass), whereas here in UK weather really only allows for one cut - so it tends to be longer and more golden (mature) than the bright green first cuts of American timothy hay. The people I use ship about a 1/3 to 1/2 bale in a large box...
http://www.willowwarren.co.uk/ but it is timothy rich so has other grasses in it too - which is a good variety for bunny.
Timothy hay is never too rich in my book - I don't know where you heard that? :? It's very high in fibre and low in protein which is ideal. :D
Click to expand...

excellent! You are a wonderful source of information! Many thanks again!:love::love:
 
chelle said:
I also wanted to ask - I have alot of bulbs that are bluebell bulds or hyacinth type things - they spreadlike mad and Im always trying to get rid of them - anyway - they are in the lawn in the exact area where their run is going to be when we go away....Im so worried that they will eat these bulds and get sick! We have cut the lawn so you cant see them alot- but I want to dig the whole area up & then relay the grass - but the grass would need time to settle & we go away in 2 weeks time - so would then be worried the buns would dig out with the newly laid soft grass. I thought I could lay some paving slabs over this bulb area & sort out when we get back properly - but you know how buns are - they always find what you trying to hide! Abit concerned as I wont be here to watch them etc - its the neighbour & my sister....just abit worried....any thoughts on this? thanks so so much for this loooooooooooooooooong info youve given me! much appreciated! :love:
Click to expand...

Yes it is the bulb part of these plants that are poisonous to buns, the leaves although not exactly safe will not cause a problem if eaten by mistake. Eating the bulbs should be avoided at all costs. I would personally dig them up now and relay the turf before putting the buns over this area if they are digging buns? Mine aren't so I would probably wait for Spring and dig them up then when I knew where they were... but I might also just dig them up now and returf for peace of mind to be honest. They might dig the newly laid grass but I doubt they would dig it all and it would recover with watering and sunshine. Just make sure any new turf has not been sprayed or treated with herbicides or anything when you buy it.
Is there another area you can move the run to in the meantime whilst you are on holiday?

No, I don't personally believe buns need unlimited pellets until adulthood (6-9 months) I don't think it does them any favours. Wild buns don't have pellets provided, as long as you give a good variety of fresh hay and plants/veg you can reduce pellets to an eggcup full by 12-16wks IMO. Others may disagree. We certainly reduced our female rescue bun to NO pellets by time we adopted her when she was only about 5 months old. They do need lots of vitamins and calcium esp when growing to form strong jaws and bones but an eggcup full is quite a lot of concentrated feed. It's up to you anyway. :) I'm probably considered a bit radical so may not be the best person to ask. ;)

Yes if possible I would try the other brands instead of Excel simply because many owners find Excel causes excess caecotrophs and as a result sticky bottoms and messy cages/bedding. Science selective, A&P and Oxbow pellets are supposed to be better for controlling excess caecotroph production which is what occurs with too much starch/carbohydrate (the main component of pellets). However, excel is probably better than P@H which from my experience are rubbish pellets and very low in fibre :(
However, now you are switching you will need to take another couple of weeks switching again if you find the other brands. Have a look online:
https://www.thehayexperts.co.uk/Foo...ective.135/?osCsid=42le8dejomnmuomn2i56mgo512 I get nearly all my bunny supplies from this online shop - Lisa is fantastic :D

Also http://www.bunnybazaar.com/maincategory/Food_and_Hay for Oxbow and A&P pellets. :wave: Another good website.

Large golden poops is perfect! The bigger the better - this is an indication of increased indigestible fibre. Grass makes poops smaller but this is ok as grass is still very high in fibre. The warning poops are small and pale/dry.
Oblong poops sometimes when broken open will show lots of fur inside them - a sudden increase in fibre can stretch the walls of the intestines and scour out fur that bun has been building up (this is my theory anyway!) as a bun I fostered who was on P@H pellets also did this the minute I started getting him to eat hay for the first time it was amazing! If there is no fur inside it is just the tummy adjusting to lots of fibre. It's fine, nothing to worry about. A bun moulting may also pass more fur so daily brushing if possible is helpful to prevent too much ingested.

Yes apple tree leaves and twigs can be fed fresh or dried :) As with any new food - introduce slowly.
Yep all herbs except chives are fine - a good starting point for buns getting used to veggies. Lavender and rosemary are fine but unlikely to be a favourite. Coriander, parsley and basil are often favourites! ;) Mine love thyme and marjoram too. Pea tops are the leaves of the edible pea plants - so yes mangetout/sugarsnap peas - you can feed the whole plant! They love 'em! :love: If we can eat the pods so can they. Avoid flowering sweetpeas - totally different family and poisonous.
Yes the hay I get from willowwarren is rather expensive :oops: but i've spoilt my buns and they won't eat any other hay now! :roll::lol:
 
Thanks you so so much Prettylupin! :D

Thats so kind of you to write so much in response to my many questions! Will swap the pellets once theyve finished this bag of burgess excel I guess! Good to know about the golden poops - however large! Will have a check for fur next time I see a big one!:shock:

Thanks for info reg. apple leaves & herbs & bulb info - feel abit better knowing its specifically the bulbs themselves and not so much the leaves....will poss have to put paving slabs over that area for now as time to do the grass is running out - also means they have a cool area to lay in the heat of the day!:)

Will also check out those links! thanks!:)

Thanks so much again for all your help and advice - cheers!;)
 
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