Summer housing consideration - would love your thoughts.

Sorry to hear you lost your guinea pig :( it's very difficult making decisions when you are feeling so sad. You mentioned a tunnel/burrow, I have done this. I wanted to build a proper warren in our (tiny!) garden, but my partner drew the line at a burrow! So we (ok, mainly he) dug a hole in the garden outside of the run, placed a very large plastic container with a hole in the side in there and attached a tube which went inside the run. Unfortunately after all our efforts they didn't really use it. We dug it up recently and filled it in, but I wish we had left it. We filled it in as I was very sad after losing one of our rabbits and we decided to get another fairly quickly, I was worried that the burrow would be full of water and the new rabbit would go down and drown (I'm a catastrophist - or a rabastrophist!!) On retrospect, I think they would have used it more if there were more than one entrance/exit. I'd love to know if other people have done this and how they got on.
I know it's not for everyone, and I've mentioned it before on this forum, but we have a hole in the wall of our house, there's a tube attached that leads to their run and a t junction to their hutch, so the rabbits have the house and the garden 24/7 it works for us but it means that our dining room is now a giant hutch ;)
 
This was our set-up as it was being put in place. The run then continues around the garage. The runs also have lids.111225112716-1053.jpg120123-1.jpg120124-2.jpg
 
Could the shed have a wooden floor? If so, could it be raised a few inches on legs? That might stop the wonky concrete being a problem. You would have to think about whether rabbits could get out from underneath the shed, maybe put boards or wire around the base? Or raise the shed a bit higher, 5 or 6 inches maybe, secure the sides and back to the run, and make a lovely large hidey hole.
 
@Omi you are amazing. Thank you.

The issue with the concrete is access - there has been a porch built on the side of the house since the concrete was laid many years ago, there is no way I can get one of the rolly/mixer things round and down the steps and along a shail path.
I thought plastic was more durable but didnt think of condensation.


The tube between the shed and the run is as it will need to travel down a slope to where the grass is. I will see if I can get a good enough photo today when down there.


Thank you again.
Depending on how wonky/big the concrete area is, might self-leveling concrete be an answer? You just mix is and pour over the wonky area and let it spread. But I don't know if it'll work for very big areas
 
Hi, this forum and its members are amazing.

So the dining room is now Dads bedroom so could not be a giant rabbit hutch - :)

I have measured up and the concrete are - stepped and slightly wonky is 120inches by 57 inches - OH could make risers to ensure it was stable and I have seen the plastic thingymabobs that you can rest a shed on. You can see the stepped and wonky concrete below.

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Then the play / run area is on the buttercup bit but down approx 4 feet so OH said he can build bunny steps. The photo is stood down on the buttercup bit looking back to where I would house the shed.

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and for interest this is the bit that the gpigs are going on, in a hutch and one of the runs I posted a photo of earlier. It is the grassed area.

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Just looked at it all and boy do we have some work to do. This garden used to be mums pride and joy but she has been gone 18 months and wasnt capable before that. I am all a bit overwhelmed - but hey ho we will build and they will be okay.

As previous thank you so much for your help and feedback. I am so very grateful.
 
I am beyond gutted. I have had Kanga vaccinated today, and I have (so tearfully) booked him in for castration.
Just out of interest I checked with Rabbit Rescue North West and they wont rehome to me as my shed is only 6 x 8 feet and not the 60 square feet they want. It is only 48 square feet.
 
I am beyond gutted. I have had Kanga vaccinated today, and I have (so tearfully) booked him in for castration.
Just out of interest I checked with Rabbit Rescue North West and they wont rehome to me as my shed is only 6 x 8 feet and not the 60 square feet they want. It is only 48 square feet.
Surely they include the space of a permanently attached run as well? Or a second level within the shed? Otherwise, I can't see them rehoming many rabbits at all.
 
Surely they include the space of a permanently attached run as well? Or a second level within the shed? Otherwise, I can't see them rehoming many rabbits at all.
Completely agree. My shed is that size and several different rescues have never said it's too small to rehome to. The opposite in fact, they have praised the accommodation available. And in my view it also definitely isn't, especially with the attached run. Out of interest did they say where the 60 sq ft comes from? As Shimmer says they won't find many people able to offer that.
 
I'm sorry, C&D, that really sucks. I understand rescues having such strict guidelines, but I still think they should take these things on a case-by-case basis. I could adopt from our local rabbit sanctuary because they would be living outside. Maybe you could call them and see if they would be willing to look more into your accommodation?

Sending vibes for a healthy, safe operation for Kanga
 
Completely agree. My shed is that size and several different rescues have never said it's too small to rehome to. The opposite in fact, they have praised the accommodation available. And in my view it also definitely isn't, especially with the attached run. Out of interest did they say where the 60 sq ft comes from? As Shimmer says they won't find many people able to offer that.
They said they are following RWAF guidelines. I have said I will remeasure tomorrow but I am not sure how to fix a run without it being on a different level - you can see that there are steps on the photo. Other levels do not count just floor level.

This is taken from their website
Our recommended living area for 2 average sized rabbits (and they should be kept at least in pairs) is a single enclosed area of at least 3m x 2m by 1m high. This can include the sleeping quarters, and makes up a footprint (accessible area of the ground or floor) of 3m x 2m.
It’s important for the rabbits that this 3m x 2m footprint is in a single block of space because it allows them to display positive behaviours, for example, to run rather than just hop.
The upper floor of a two-storey hutch does NOT count towards the footprint. Similarly, whilst raised platforms, tunnels and other connected areas are great for enrichment and are actively encouraged, they do not count towards the footprint.
For those who prefer imperial measurements:
  • 3m=9’10”
  • 2m=6’7″
  • 1m=3’3″
Please note that the 3m length is important as this allows the rabbits to run and not just take a few hops. We sometimes see 60sq ft of space being referred to as the minimum guideline, but this does not always meet the minimum guidelines, for example 8ft x 8ft would be 64ft, but there is not a 3m length in that set up.
 
They said they are following RWAF guidelines. I have said I will remeasure tomorrow but I am not sure how to fix a run without it being on a different level - you can see that there are steps on the photo. Other levels do not count just floor level.

This is taken from their website
Our recommended living area for 2 average sized rabbits (and they should be kept at least in pairs) is a single enclosed area of at least 3m x 2m by 1m high. This can include the sleeping quarters, and makes up a footprint (accessible area of the ground or floor) of 3m x 2m.
It’s important for the rabbits that this 3m x 2m footprint is in a single block of space because it allows them to display positive behaviours, for example, to run rather than just hop.
The upper floor of a two-storey hutch does NOT count towards the footprint. Similarly, whilst raised platforms, tunnels and other connected areas are great for enrichment and are actively encouraged, they do not count towards the footprint.
For those who prefer imperial measurements:
  • 3m=9’10”
  • 2m=6’7″
  • 1m=3’3″
Please note that the 3m length is important as this allows the rabbits to run and not just take a few hops. We sometimes see 60sq ft of space being referred to as the minimum guideline, but this does not always meet the minimum guidelines, for example 8ft x 8ft would be 64ft, but there is not a 3m length in that set up.
Their wording has been copied directly from the RWAF website. I also checked a couple of other rescues and the RSPCA has also now got exactly the same wording. I think this must be new, as I don't remember the RWAF having these requirements previously. ARC, a large rescue in Twickenham has lesser requirements. We could actually comply with the RWAF requirements here as we have a long section of the run for them to be able to run, but it doesn't match the diagram of the area as shown on the RWAF site.

I am surprised by this and consider it will be hard for most people to be able to comply.

Do you have other rescues close to you? It would be worth finding out their requirements if so.
 
I would have thought that an attached run would count as it's still 'floor' level, even if it's effectively a step down. Their website shows a set up with long tunnels as the access between the shed area and run.

You could also look at a private rehome. 2 of my current 3 rabbits were private rehomes, both very well cared for and neutered, although one (the stray) was done prior to it being picked up in the local park. One was vaccinated and came with the certificate. If you are careful and are prepared to walk away if it doesn't seem right, it can work - and saves them going into rescue further down the line. I looked at the photos they posted quite carefully - the spaces they were in were clean, large, and there was obviously hay around, so I was happy that there shouldn't be any avoidable health issues. They were also very fluffy (like yours) and were well groomed. When I visit to pick up an animal, I always leave the carrier in the car so that I have to go back to the car to either fetch the carrier or drive away without the rabbit - it makes refusing it an easier option if things don't seem right, particularly if it means bringing an infection into your home.
 
Thank you both, Shimmer I would be rubbish at walking away - I know I would I would probably come home with a llama, rabbit, 7 ducks and the persons daughter!
However on a serious note leaving the carrier in the car is an excellent plan.
Thank you Omi, I will have a look
 
If you take the carrier in with you, you feel morally obliged to fill it. Leaving it in the car gives you breathing space and a 'this isn't going to work for me, thank you,' is a lot easier. It also avoids further cross contamination if you don't know just what you are walking into.
 
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All measured and sent to rescue - they will either say yes or no.

My B+Q basket is soooooo scary! So far a single cat flap and two rolls of wire have been delivered, the rest is either still in the basket or on its way. I dont want to pay out in a rush if I have time to wait - ie no additional bunny coming.


Thank you again for reading.
 
I hope Kanga realises just what he has started!

I reckon your design looks great. I am interested to hear what the rescue says about it.
 
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