Summer housing consideration - would love your thoughts.

[Cuthbert&Dillon]

I have bought a run for the gpigs - I really dont think they will be going to my grandsons house. They will have some sort of hutch malarky and be house pigs in winter.

To Kanga and his needs.
I was going to buy the same run. https://www.kctdirect.co.uk/collections/pens-runs/products/kct-4x3m-walk-in-chicken-pet-run and put chicken wire underneath.

I have seen videos of people making underground box/tubes to make a warren. I thought that might be a good idea with a rabbit tunnel / runaround tube back to the main run and a smaller hutch in that.
I am worried about his fur - he is long haired (but we are getting a routine of trimming/hair care) but I dont want him to get matted again with mud.

As he is alone - I know I need to do something but am in right mess having just lost a gpig to castration with an exotic vets. I wondered for now - until 1. I am brave enough to do this to him. 2. to give him time being a bunny, if I could have him as indoor at night and outdoor during reasonable days.

If I have the above run with a chicken wire bottom but a fox proof side wire, and chicken wire roof do you think I would be able to move it when the grass is no longer good.?

Also can anyone tell me if this plant is poisonous to either gpigs or rabbits please, I think it is but would like it confirming. The area I have in mind for Kanga is full of it and if this needs removing I would rather start now before the weeds and the chicken wire on the bottom of the run make it hard work.

I promise I will think of a pal for Kanga but I really can not face it at the moment. My bridge rabbit Dillon also had issues on being castrated and was a long time poorly. I know its the best thing but he isnt fit enough yet either.

Thank you for reading any thoughts would be cracking.

 

[tonibun]

Personally I would just give him time to be a happy Bunny for now, Boys cope much better alone than females. Regarding the plant, it might be Buttercup which is poisonous but I am not sure if it is that or something else. Sorry you have lost a Guinea during neuter, how old was he?

 

[Omi]

Firstly the plant is a Buttercup, Creeping Buttercup I think. If so it will spread vigorously via runners. It is difficult to remove completely and you will need to remove the root. Buttercups are said to be toxic for rabbits (not sure about piggies, but would be wary). I would describe them as harmful to rabbits, but that doesn't mean to say that in very small quantities they would kill a rabbit. But certainly they are best removed as best as you can. . They will probably need more than one attempt to get rid of them completely. They are very persistant.

The run is a nice shape and size, but the hole sizes seem large to me and so yes, you would need to reinforce it against predation. We have used weldmesh rather than chicken wire as it is much stronger. Why are you wondering if you would be able to move it? The weight of it? Would you have a hutch inside it or is it purely as a run?

Giving him time to be a bunny and be happy is great. No need to rush with a neuter unless or until you want to bond him with another bunny. It is considered to be harmful for a rabbit's respiratory system to move from inside to outside and back again during the winter and they would find it difficult to regulate their temperature. You don't know where Kanga was living , nor for how long before you rescued him, but I would imagine he has developed a winter coat. Does he need to go outside before the weather warms up?

 

[Cuthbert&Dillon]

Personally I would just give him time to be a happy Bunny for now, Boys cope much better alone than females. Regarding the plant, it might be Buttercup which is poisonous but I am not sure if it is that or something else. Sorry you have lost a Guinea during neuter, how old was he?

Thank you Tonibun, I will make a start on clearing the buttercup - there is loads but that being said I have time between now and April.

Graham piggie was approx 1 year old - Duncan and Graham came from rescue so I am not sure how old he was. Duncan has been fine and now lives with 3 girls - ursula who was used to breed for pets, and jasmine who was used to make snake food. and Ratty she is a girl no one wanted as she looked to Ratty! Ratty is younger than the others but I am not sure how old any of them are. Rescue said around 2/3 for Usula and Jasmine, under 12 months for Ratty. Duncan around 2/3
I got Duncan and Graham when my son and grandson lived here. My grandson wanted piggies. They moved out 2 weeks after the boys came home and now "havent room" - good job I think they are marvellous (pigs and relatives!)

 

[Cuthbert&Dillon]

Firstly the plant is a Buttercup, Creeping Buttercup I think. If so it will spread vigorously via runners. It is difficult to remove completely and you will need to remove the root. Buttercups are said to be toxic for rabbits (not sure about piggies, but would be wary). I would describe them as harmful to rabbits, but that doesn't mean to say that in very small quantities they would kill a rabbit. But certainly they are best removed as best as you can. . They will probably need more than one attempt to get rid of them completely. They are very persistant.

The run is a nice shape and size, but the hole sizes seem large to me and so yes, you would need to reinforce it against predation. We have used weldmesh rather than chicken wire as it is much stronger. Why are you wondering if you would be able to move it? The weight of it? Would you have a hutch inside it or is it purely as a run?

Giving him time to be a bunny and be happy is great. No need to rush with a neuter unless or until you want to bond him with another bunny. It is considered to be harmful for a rabbit's respiratory system to move from inside to outside and back again during the winter and they would find it difficult to regulate their temperature. You don't know where Kanga was living , nor for how long before you rescued him, but I would imagine he has developed a winter coat. Does he need to go outside before the weather warms up?

Thank you Omi, I will dig the area to try and remove. Thank you for your help.

I liked the run as I can sit in it too without impacting on the space. I am going to use different grade wire for the sides but chicken wire for the base and top. Moving - I didnt think the run was big enough to cope with a whole summer of bunnying and eating. I thought to pick it up and move it across the garden to fresh grass.
I am not sure about a hutch as anything other than a weather shelter but you have me worried about coping with the in and out doors.


I dont know if Kanga has a winter coat - its been shaved in parts at the vets. I am sorry but I dont know how to tell if its a winter coat as I have never had a kanga bunny before. It seems really thin and fine?

He wont go outside until the weather warms - I want the pigs to go outside first as they will have a hutch and there are 4 of them - here they have the lounge, dining room and kitchen, but when we move they will just have their c+c run. Kanga has the whole house. The pigs area is grass so wont need the buttercups clearing. I really am unprepared for a bunny! I was going to do a small orchard and soft fruit area - not a kanga pad!
Thank you Omi for your help.

 

[Shimmer]

The plant looks like a buttercup, which would need removing if they have access to it. My preferred method is to dig them out individually as they do spread rapidly in Summer. It's a boring job, but necessary. The soil is quite soft at the moment, so weeding is a little easier and you can get all the roots out to stop it spreading.

The run is a good size for you and the furries. My only comment is that chicken wire isn't predator proof if you have eg a determined dog or fox, especially if it's the bigger holes mesh. I would look at reinforcing the bottom 2-3' with the addition of some small mesh weldmesh. It could be fitted at the same time as the chicken wire, or fastened on the frame etc with metal cable ties, which won't get chewed like plastic ones will. It's not a big job if you are setting it all up from new anyway. It would also keep curious cat paws out, as they have a tendency to swipe at small furries.

 

[Shimmer]

I'd missed the bit about moving the run....it's huge at 3mx4m - not something you can casually just lift. Once it's settled, I would leave it where it is. You will need at least someone at each corner to shift it again, and bedding it on to a new site will be a pain unless you have a bowling green flat surface and no obstacles to go around. Just moving a standard wooden run on a standard lawn takes a lot of effort, 2 people and some planning to make sure there are no gaps under the edges.

Just over a year ago, my daughter and I moved an unwanted 3mx2m polytunnel from one allotment plot to another straight down one lane - it really wasn't easy, even after we ended up recruiting another 2 people. The structure is not made for moving in its entirety, and it's quite unstable once it's off the ground. Your run is of similar construction, but twice as big.

 

[tonibun]

Thank you Omi, I will dig the area to try and remove. Thank you for your help.

I liked the run as I can sit in it too without impacting on the space. I am going to use different grade wire for the sides but chicken wire for the base and top. Moving - I didnt think the run was big enough to cope with a whole summer of bunnying and eating. I thought to pick it up and move it across the garden to fresh grass.
I am not sure about a hutch as anything other than a weather shelter but you have me worried about coping with the in and out doors.


I dont know if Kanga has a winter coat - its been shaved in parts at the vets. I am sorry but I dont know how to tell if its a winter coat as I have never had a kanga bunny before. It seems really thin and fine?

He wont go outside until the weather warms - I want the pigs to go outside first as they will have a hutch and there are 4 of them - here they have the lounge, dining room and kitchen, but when we move they will just have their c+c run. Kanga has the whole house. The pigs area is grass so wont need the buttercups clearing. I really am unprepared for a bunny! I was going to do a small orchard and soft fruit area - not a kanga pad!
Thank you Omi for your help.

I think Omi meant over the winter. Moving Bunnies in and out in cold weather is not good. I can't seem to get the photo of the run.

 

[Cuthbert&Dillon]

Thank you @Shimmer I will start project buttercup as soon as I can.
Flat bowling green lawns would be my dream. They are sloping and were the raised beds from mum doing proper gardening. There will be a base but I will certainly rethink the need to move.

The sides will be heavy duty wire, the top and bottom will be chicken wire. - thank you for this.

@tonibun - thank you, has the picture come through now. ? Sorry.

 

[tonibun]

Thanks and yes I can see the photo. I hate to say this but I have known Rabbits bite through chicken wire and pull it up from under the framework. The grass will soon become muddy and you won't like it. Are you thinking of putting a hutch in this enclosure as a shelter?

 

[Cuthbert&Dillon]

Thanks and yes I can see the photo. I hate to say this but I have known Rabbits bite through chicken wire and pull it up from under the framework. The grass will soon become muddy and you won't like it. Are you thinking of putting a hutch in this enclosure as a shelter?

I really do not know, I found Kanga and dont want to give him up, I am having a massive change with having to move in with Dad to look after him. I want something that will give Kanga and the gpigs something that will enrich their lives. I have a large space to play with and a husband that can make anything out of wood but I honestly do not know what I want or what Kanga needs. He can not be a house rabbit as he will be limited to just one large room. He can not have access to downstairs as Dad has equipment and very poor mobility and I would fear for Kanga getting either stood on or run over with a chair. I have until the start of March to get my ideas together and give him something worthy of calling home. Sorry I dont mean to be negative Tonibun just I was not expecting to have a bunny - or my grandsons gpigs.

 

[Omi]

Complete change of ideas, but could you get a shed for him? That would give him space, security and he (and food, litter tray etc) would be warm and dry in the winter. It would also give you time to consider what, if anything, extra you would want to add on eg a run accessed via a cat-flap.

I also think it's perfectly sensible not to have him inside under the circumstances.

 

[Cinnabun14]

I don't know very much about rabbits, but Kanga seems like a real escape artist! I considered something similar for our bunnies when we rebuild, and I was very worried they would dig under a run like that. So far we plan on a small shed in a hardware cloth (I think ya'll call is meshweld?) enclosure. Because Kanga is such a ninja he might need a fence around that as well, but idk if that would be overdoing it!

I found this old thread to be extremely helpful, full of really good hutch/shed and run ideas:
https://forums.rabbitrehome.org.uk/...housing-needed-please-for-rabbit-expo.163558/

 

[tonibun]

Complete change of ideas, but could you get a shed for him? That would give him space, security and he (and food, litter tray etc) would be warm and dry in the winter. It would also give you time to consider what, if anything, extra you would want to add on eg a run accessed via a cat-flap.

I also think it's perfectly sensible not to have him inside under the circumstances.

This is what I was thinking also. Will Kanga be outside all year round? Even if you can't afford a shed you can pick up a second-hand playhouse very cheaply then attach it to an enclosure. We are trying to advise you to save you spending money on something unsuitable.

 

[Cuthbert&Dillon]

Thank you all, a shed is perfectly doable - we also have a concrete base to put it on - when I have removed all manner of rubbish. If outside all year he will need a pal, he can not be in a shed on his own all year that is not acceptable.
From the shed I can also run one of those tube things to an outdoor run.
To use your wisdom some more, what about a shed with the run that I had in mind with better mesh - there are foxes.
Thank you again.

 

[tonibun]

That sounds great then. Of course he should have a friend if he is going to be outdoors. I am not sure about the run.

 

[Cuthbert&Dillon]

I am sorry to ask so many questions but this is a big important job and I really value your help.

Okay, so given that a shed is a better option to a hutch, please can I have your views on this one. It is 8ft by 10ft - enough for 2 bunnies? https://gardendealsdirect.com/colle...-shed-grey-anthracite-wood-touch-texture-copy

I have gone for plastic as I am getting older, I thought it would wash down easily, the location will be north facing but against two house walls but still cold. The base is concrete - but will be wonky - I am not willing to spend to even the wonky concrete up. There is a nearby downpipe from the house I can gutter this shed into.
I would need to put a tube into the side but this would then mean that Kanga had space to run - but there is a twisted hazel tree in this area - is that dodgy please?

Thank you again. If I ever meet you the first pint is on me! (and the second, and the third.......)

 

[Omi]

I don't think you need such a large shed. We have an 8x6 shed. Two bunnies in there currently, but we have had 4 in there and I reckon it was plenty large enough. I would also not get plastic. You could have an issue with condensation, plus if there is the slightest opportunity for bunnies to nibble they will take it. Why would you need to wash the shed down? We got our wooden shed from here https://www.tigersheds.com/garden-sheds/8x6-sheds/ We got the cheapest one, which is very similar to the one for £374.99.

We have had it for at least 12 years now and it's like new. The secret though is installing it correctly from the outset. So if I were you I would reconsider getting the concrete absolutely level. There will be a strain on the shed if it's wonky. It also needs to be put together very accurately, sttrictly in accordance with the instructions. The wood outside should also be treated with a pet-friendly product. It's also best to line the inside walls with a very thin ply. This provides insulation and also prevents the bunnies nibbling the wooden shed walls. We did not take the ply right the way down to the floor. This was so that we could lay an offcut of lino on the floor, taking it up the sides a few inches all round and slightly overlapping the end of the ply. We then got some mesh, cut long strips which are stapeled all the way round, over the join of the ply and lino. This makes it impossible for the bunnies to nibble the wood or the lino.

We have a cat-flap rather than a tube, but either would be great. It depends which would fit the best with the space available. I would also put any run onto concrete and then you can be absolutely sure that bunnies can't dig out and predators can't dig in. When deciding on a run, you also need to consider how the tube will connect into it.

Are you asking about the Twisted Hazel because of toxicity? If so, absolutely no problem. The leaves and the bark are very rabbit friendly.

If any of the above is unclear (some of it was difficult to describe), then just ask for clarification.

 

[Cuthbert&Dillon]

I don't think you need such a large shed. We have an 8x6 shed. Two bunnies in there currently, but we have had 4 in there and I reckon it was plenty large enough. I would also not get plastic. You could have an issue with condensation, plus if there is the slightest opportunity for bunnies to nibble they will take it. Why would you need to wash the shed down? We got our wooden shed from here https://www.tigersheds.com/garden-sheds/8x6-sheds/ We got the cheapest one, which is very similar to the one for £374.99.

We have had it for at least 12 years now and it's like new. The secret though is installing it correctly from the outset. So if I were you I would reconsider getting the concrete absolutely level. There will be a strain on the shed if it's wonky. It also needs to be put together very accurately, sttrictly in accordance with the instructions. The wood outside should also be treated with a pet-friendly product. It's also best to line the inside walls with a very thin ply. This provides insulation and also prevents the bunnies nibbling the wooden shed walls. We did not take the ply right the way down to the floor. This was so that we could lay an offcut of lino on the floor, taking it up the sides a few inches all round and slightly overlapping the end of the ply. We then got some mesh, cut long strips which are stapeled all the way round, over the join of the ply and lino. This makes it impossible for the bunnies to nibble the wood or the lino.

We have a cat-flap rather than a tube, but either would be great. It depends which would fit the best with the space available. I would also put any run onto concrete and then you can be absolutely sure that bunnies can't dig out and predators can't dig in. When deciding on a run, you also need to consider how the tube will connect into it.

Are you asking about the Twisted Hazel because of toxicity? If so, absolutely no problem. The leaves and the bark are very rabbit friendly.

If any of the above is unclear (some of it was difficult to describe), then just ask for clarification.

@Omi you are amazing. Thank you.

The issue with the concrete is access - there has been a porch built on the side of the house since the concrete was laid many years ago, there is no way I can get one of the rolly/mixer things round and down the steps and along a shail path.
I thought plastic was more durable but didnt think of condensation.


The tube between the shed and the run is as it will need to travel down a slope to where the grass is. I will see if I can get a good enough photo today when down there.


Thank you again.

 

[tonibun]

I don't think you need such a large shed. We have an 8x6 shed. Two bunnies in there currently, but we have had 4 in there and I reckon it was plenty large enough. I would also not get plastic. You could have an issue with condensation, plus if there is the slightest opportunity for bunnies to nibble they will take it. Why would you need to wash the shed down? We got our wooden shed from here https://www.tigersheds.com/garden-sheds/8x6-sheds/ We got the cheapest one, which is very similar to the one for £374.99.

We have had it for at least 12 years now and it's like new. The secret though is installing it correctly from the outset. So if I were you I would reconsider getting the concrete absolutely level. There will be a strain on the shed if it's wonky. It also needs to be put together very accurately, sttrictly in accordance with the instructions. The wood outside should also be treated with a pet-friendly product. It's also best to line the inside walls with a very thin ply. This provides insulation and also prevents the bunnies nibbling the wooden shed walls. We did not take the ply right the way down to the floor. This was so that we could lay an offcut of lino on the floor, taking it up the sides a few inches all round and slightly overlapping the end of the ply. We then got some mesh, cut long strips which are stapeled all the way round, over the join of the ply and lino. This makes it impossible for the bunnies to nibble the wood or the lino.

We have a cat-flap rather than a tube, but either would be great. It depends which would fit the best with the space available. I would also put any run onto concrete and then you can be absolutely sure that bunnies can't dig out and predators can't dig in. When deciding on a run, you also need to consider how the tube will connect into it.

Are you asking about the Twisted Hazel because of toxicity? If so, absolutely no problem. The leaves and the bark are very rabbit friendly.

If any of the above is unclear (some of it was difficult to describe), then just ask for clarification.

I fully agree. I have 2 Rabbits in a 7x5 wooden shed. They come out into a slabbed area. I use a high puppy pen to keep them in which has a door for me to access. You could open it up onto a grassed area but here the grass has mostly died down. It all depends on the space you have to work with. If you have a wonky base you can adjust the bearers so you have a perfectly level foundation, otherwise a shed will leak. My big shed which is 12x8 is not on concrete, just bearers and I have had it 12 years now. On concrete it will soak up moisture. These things are not easy.