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whie liquid in rabbits cage, any idea what it is?

Yerr i dont have a run. And i have started giving them wayyyy moreeeeee hay so hopefully its all good in the hood. THANKYOU SO MUCH FOR ALL THE ADVICE, i really needed it.
 
Yerr i dont have a run. And i have started giving them wayyyy moreeeeee hay so hopefully its all good in the hood. THANKYOU SO MUCH FOR ALL THE ADVICE, i really needed it.

That's really good, hay is so important for their health and happiness, make sure they have unlimited and top up with fresh hay at least every day, more often if you can.

Are they indoor or outdoor? If they are indoors then they dont really need a run, as you can just let them run about the room, providing you bunny-proof or tuck away any electrical wires first.
 
That's really good, hay is so important for their health and happiness, make sure they have unlimited and top up with fresh hay at least every day, more often if you can.

Are they indoor or outdoor? If they are indoors then they dont really need a run, as you can just let them run about the room, providing you bunny-proof or tuck away any electrical wires first.

they are indoor rabbits and i do let them out. once one of the rabbits opened the cage herself and started biting a wire but we caught her before she could get hurt luckily, she is a very cheeky and clever rabbit.
 
they are indoor rabbits and i do let them out. once one of the rabbits opened the cage herself and started biting a wire but we caught her before she could get hurt luckily, she is a very cheeky and clever rabbit.

My rabbits have bitten through all sorts of wires and not once have been hurt, so dont worry too much about that, its more that you'll have to keep replacing wires. Obviously ones like extension cables are more of a risk. You can bunny proof the room, it should be fairly easy to do. I found it easier to just move electrical items to places the rabbits couldnt get to the wires, but you can also use NIC panels (like people use to make c&c cages) or puppy pen panels to block areas of the room off. Here is an example where I blocked off the printer, the cables are all behind a second set of panels as well, in case a bun gets over the first set.
SAM_0749.jpg



Its important to let the buns out for a good few hours a day, I'd say an absolute minimum of 6, more if you have one of the commercial cages, as the commercial cages (the ones that look like giant hamster cages) dont meet the welfare guidlines by the RWAF and RSPCA if used on their own, so rabbits shouldnt really be shut in them at all. If you have one of these it would be best to get them a pen to use as a run, like this:
SAM_0608.jpg

You can see the blue base of the 120cm commercial cage in that one.
Or even just use a pen on its own:

SAM_2225.jpg


SAM_2221.jpg


Or you can even have them free-range 24/7, which of course is preferable :)
 
My rabbits have bitten through all sorts of wires and not once have been hurt, so dont worry too much about that, its more that you'll have to keep replacing wires. Obviously ones like extension cables are more of a risk. You can bunny proof the room, it should be fairly easy to do. I found it easier to just move electrical items to places the rabbits couldnt get to the wires, but you can also use NIC panels (like people use to make c&c cages) or puppy pen panels to block areas of the room off. Here is an example where I blocked off the printer, the cables are all behind a second set of panels as well, in case a bun gets over the first set.
SAM_0749.jpg



Its important to let the buns out for a good few hours a day, I'd say an absolute minimum of 6, more if you have one of the commercial cages, as the commercial cages (the ones that look like giant hamster cages) dont meet the welfare guidlines by the RWAF and RSPCA if used on their own, so rabbits shouldnt really be shut in them at all. If you have one of these it would be best to get them a pen to use as a run, like this:
SAM_0608.jpg

You can see the blue base of the 120cm commercial cage in that one.
Or even just use a pen on its own:

SAM_2225.jpg


SAM_2221.jpg


Or you can even have them free-range 24/7, which of course is preferable :)

my rabbits have a double decker cage and they do have a LOT of the time outside (they never stop biting the cage bars) they probs reach about 6-7 hours oustide of the cage each day. When i am out sometimes it goes down to about 3 hours a day. what happens if they dont get out enough?
 
my rabbits have a double decker cage and they do have a LOT of the time outside (they never stop biting the cage bars) they probs reach about 6-7 hours oustide of the cage each day. When i am out sometimes it goes down to about 3 hours a day. what happens if they dont get out enough?

If rabbits don't get enough exercise they can get overweight (which comes with a whole raft of other dangers), can get joint and muscle problems, behavioural problems (they get bored, frustrated, depressed and can become aggressive), etc.

http://www.rabbitwelfare.co.uk/ahutchisnotenough.htm <-- this website has things that explain why rabbits shouldn't be shut in small cages :)
 
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If rabbits don't get enough exercise they can get overweight (which comes with a whole raft of other dangers), can get joint and muscle problems, behavioural problems (they get bored, frustrated, depressed and can become aggressive), etc.

kk thx, I'll get them out as much as possible ever day. thankyou.
 
Those double cages are deceiving. They look to give more room but the hole for the ramp take up a lot of the space. It would be fine to have them in longer in the day if there was a metal puppy pen attached :) I have 4ft tall ones off eBay and they were £32 in p+p :wave:
 
kk thx, I'll get them out as much as possible ever day. thankyou.

Sounds good :) not sure if you saw the link Pebblesetc posted above, that links to the minimum size caging rabbits should have, so use that as a guide (with free-ranging being instead of a run).

The cage-biting is a sign that they are frustrated and are bored, so I'd see if you can give them more space and maybe more enrichment too, things like digging boxes, tunnels, boxes to jump on and hide under etc, and that should help.

3 hours out means they are spending 21 hours in their cage, that is a long long time, a bit like you being stuck in the cupboard under the stairs all day. The good news is that once you have bunnyproofed a bit they should be able to stay out when you are not home, meaning they will get more exercise. Alternatively you could give them a bigger permenant area, a pen for instance, and then you wouldnt have to worry about having them out as much.

edit: once they eat more hay they will be less bored too, so thats good.
 
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Sounds good :) not sure if you saw the link Pebblesetc posted above, that links to the minimum size caging rabbits should have, so use that as a guide (with free-ranging being instead of a run).

The cage-biting is a sign that they are frustrated and are bored, so I'd see if you can give them more space and maybe more enrichment too, things like digging boxes, tunnels, boxes to jump on and hide under etc, and that should help.

3 hours out means they are spending 21 hours in their cage, that is a long long time, a bit like you being stuck in the cupboard under the stairs all day. The good news is that once you have bunnyproofed a bit they should be able to stay out when you are not home, meaning they will get more exercise. Alternatively you could give them a bigger permenant area, a pen for instance, and then you wouldnt have to worry about having them out as much.

edit: once they eat more hay they will be less bored too, so thats good.

yehhh i give them lots of hay so their probs not as bored anymore. but yehh i'll see if i can get them a pen to run around in or i'll just bunny-proof the room like you said and let them out when i go. but i probaly wont be going out AS much any more (not that i was going out loads), because they're good time spenders.

the arent really biting the cage too much now, beacuse of the hay i think. they eat it all day long. i was gonna put them in a room at first, but beacuse they were new rabbits i didnt want to scare them, and i was gonna move them into a room on their first birthday but now thinking about it, it might just start all over again; they'll be really scared and stay still forever, literally! or will it be okay?
 
yehhh i give them lots of hay so their probs not as bored anymore. but yehh i'll see if i can get them a pen to run around in or i'll just bunny-proof the room like you said and let them out when i go. but i probaly wont be going out AS much any more (not that i was going out loads), because they're good time spenders.

the arent really biting the cage too much now, beacuse of the hay i think. they eat it all day long. i was gonna put them in a room at first, but beacuse they were new rabbits i didnt want to scare them, and i was gonna move them into a room on their first birthday but now thinking about it, it might just start all over again; they'll be really scared and stay still forever, literally! or will it be okay?

Good that they are eating their hay, as the owner of 2 dental bunnies I cant stress enough how important it is to get them eating lots of hay.

Do you mean so they have their own room? That would be great, and it means that you could have it free of things like electrical wires, so you shouldnt need to bunnyproof much in there. They should be fine in there, I'd do it as soon as the room is ready, as the extra space will be fantastic for them, and a lot of the damage caused by too little space is done when they are young, so you'd be able to rest easy on that account too. What I would do is put their current cage in the room, and put them in it, and then open the door so they can come out of their own accord when they are ready - then they still have the familar cage to go back to when they wish.

One thing though, clean out the litter tray the day before you move them, and add extra litter so it will last two-three days, and then dont clean the litter tray until at least a day after you've put them in the room, as the litter tray with their wee and poo in it will help them remember where they need to go back to to wee. Then when you clean it, for the first few days I'd keep a small bit of the dirty litter back and pop it back on the clean tray, again as a reminder, so the tray still smells 'right' to them. They may lose their litter training a bit, or choose a new place where they want their litter tray, but this should make it less likely.
 
Good that they are eating their hay, as the owner of 2 dental bunnies I cant stress enough how important it is to get them eating lots of hay.

Do you mean so they have their own room? That would be great, and it means that you could have it free of things like electrical wires, so you shouldnt need to bunnyproof much in there. They should be fine in there, I'd do it as soon as the room is ready, as the extra space will be fantastic for them, and a lot of the damage caused by too little space is done when they are young, so you'd be able to rest easy on that account too. What I would do is put their current cage in the room, and put them in it, and then open the door so they can come out of their own accord when they are ready - then they still have the familar cage to go back to when they wish.

One thing though, clean out the litter tray the day before you move them, and add extra litter so it will last two-three days, and then dont clean the litter tray until at least a day after you've put them in the room, as the litter tray with their wee and poo in it will help them remember where they need to go back to to wee. Then when you clean it, for the first few days I'd keep a small bit of the dirty litter back and pop it back on the clean tray, again as a reminder, so the tray still smells 'right' to them. They may lose their litter training a bit, or choose a new place where they want their litter tray, but this should make it less likely.

Wow, thats a lot of info that i need to take in. thankyou SOOOOOOOO much for the advice, their room is ready soon (a couple weeks to about a month (we need to transfer all the stuff coz it is a used room) it'll be ready in) and hopefully they'll be best in there.
 
Wow, thats a lot of info that i need to take in. thankyou SOOOOOOOO much for the advice, their room is ready soon (a couple weeks to about a month (we need to transfer all the stuff coz it is a used room) it'll be ready in) and hopefully they'll be best in there.

Sorry, sometimes I ramble :lol:

Basically, put their cage in there with them at first, dont clean the litter tray too much for the first few days, and you may see a loss of litter training whilst they mark their new territory.
 
Sorry, sometimes I ramble :lol:

Basically, put their cage in there with them at first, dont clean the litter tray too much for the first few days, and you may see a loss of litter training whilst they mark their new territory.

Dont woz its fine x, the more the better, hopefully they wont lose THAT much litter training coz one of my rabbits is really really restless and it was quite hard to teach her. Thankyou sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo much for all the advice, no vet would give you that much and that sort of advice thankyou again:thumb::D:D:D:D
 
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