hello
unfortunately to start with, that hutch is far too small for any rabbit to be locked in for any period of time. it would either need a 8ft run (minimal imho since the hutch is 4ft to begin with)attached to it with permanent access at all times, or it would need to just be scrapped. a much better option is a shed, or at least a 6ft wide hutch (with a run attached) to live in. rabbits are animals that need space to move, they are not "small" in that sense. I wouldn't feel comfortable housing a rabbit in that hutch, unless it was used as a base with 24/7 access to a room (if indoor) or a large run.
usually rabbits are recommend to have a 6ft (long) x 2ft (wide) and 2ft (high; per level)
https://rabbitwelfare.co.uk/rabbit-housing/why-hutch-not-enough/
the hutch is also chicken wire, which isn't very sturdy at all. foxes have been known to break in, I've heard the rabbits destroying it themselves. you'll need to upgrade it to some stronger welded mesh.
your best bet for bonding would be getting both neutered when they are of age, probably 4 months or so when the testicles show. after that you must wait 8 weeks to allow hormones to settle. after that, you can begin the bonding process. you can not just put them together, and they must be neutered.
having a rabbit neutered removes so many "annoying" behaviours such as spraying, humping, aggression. it makes them an overall nicer rabbit and then they're not a slave to their hormones. finding a rabbit savvy vet is crucial, as many will give out wrong advice. rabbits should not be starved before surgery, should have metacam (pain relief) after for a few days, a post op check within a week, and shouldn't be given a cone unless deemed necessary. having anything around a rabbits neck is highly stressful for them, they hate it.
once that is out of the way, I personally swap cages every day so one cage doesn't become theres, and they can smell the other rabbit. having them side by side is a very good idea.
you will need to bond in a small, yet neutral space, where neither of them have been. you can't bond them in the whole of the kitchen, too much space will cause fights. I used their carrier to bond in to begin with as its a small space, I can intervene if they're fighting but they also have to interact. once they would sit in the cage together with no issues for 20 minutes, I went to a bigger space of a 60cm x 60cm pen. after this they lived together and every week I'd give them more space, now they share a hutch and pen combo.
another thing, please please get them vaccinated for RHD1, RHD2 and myxi. they're deadly diseases and while no vaccine is foolproof, it gives more of a chance of surviving on the small chance they can catch the virus.
if a bunny stops eating for a few hours - vet ASAP. this is usually known as GI stasis, its worth a read up on. it will kill a rabbit within 48 hours if not treated.
its also worth having a bunny medical kit at home, I'd always recommend gauze, pet safe antiseptic, critical care, syringes and pro-c probiotic (found at P@H). the gauze and antiseptic came in handy when my bunny hurt herself, and I needed something to secure and wipe the wound in between the time it took to go to the vet.
rabbits can also be litter trained, which is handy for cleaning out. I'll link some links below for you to read up on
diet is very important too, please do not feed any treats with corn or milk or unnatural sugars in. these are not good for bunnies, its best to find more natural treats such as cranberries or dried forage etc. basically, if its made artificially with no natural ingredients, avoid.
rabbits without a correct diet often then suffer from dental disease, where their back teeth overgrow and begin to cut into the tongue & mouth. this will need to be treated under a general anaesthetic via a rabbit savvy vet. a rabbits diet should be 80% hay, its incredibly important. a lot of people here buy their hay from
https://www.timothyhay.co.uk or
https://www.hay-and-straw.co.uk
good quality pellet is important too, DO NOT feed muesli of any type. the rabbit will pick out what they like and not have a balanced diet which is incredibly important. I'd also say avoid any with fancy colors in as these colorants are not any use to the rabbit and are just made to draw an owner in, to look fancy. Burgess Excel & Science Selective are the top pellet brands, ticking all the boxes for nutritional value and are good for your rabbit. I'd recommend feeding those. you should get some food from the breeder, so its best to slowly phase out the old with new once they have been in your care for a few days.
usually its recommend 1 table spoon of pellet per KG of weight. bunnies under 6 months require junior pellet to give them more nutrients and calories to help them grow. usually I use what the average adult weight will be, and feed them that. so I'd suggest perhaps 1 & 1/2 tablespoons for a netherland dwarf.
veggies can be given too, make sure to check of they're safe and introduce them slowly. once being introduced slowly they can be given them daily, a ball about the size of their head will do. make sure to shake it up and offer variety and not 1 type for weeks on end.
https://www.saveafluff.co.uk/rabbit-info/safe-foods-for-rabbits
I think that's mostly all I have to cover, here are some links & sites that contain good information.
https://rabbit.org/faq-litter-training-2/ : information on litter training
http://myhouserabbit.com/rabbit-care...ur-pet-rabbit/ : information on litter training
https://rabbit.org/faq-spaying-and-neutering/ : information on spaying and neutering
https://www.vets4pets.com/pet-health-advice/rabbit-advice/neutering-your-rabbit/ : information on spaying and neutering
https://www.saveafluff.co.uk/rabbit-info/neutering-spaying-rabbits : information on spaying and neutering
https://rabbitwelfare.co.uk/rabbit-care-advice/rabbit-friendly-vets/rabbit-friendly-vet-list/ : rabbit friendly vet list
http://myhouserabbit.com
https://rabbit.org
https://rabbitwelfare.co.uk
https://www.saveafluff.co.uk
http://www.therabbithouse.com