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I too live in the US and Never heard of this method of neutering a rabbit and I grew up on a farm. My grandparents had rabbits. So never heard of it being a farm thing either. I am in total shock. Just thinking about it:(

I know that you really love your rabbits. I can tell by all your post and pictures of them. I think that this vet just isn't rabbit savvy. I can tell that you would never want him to be in pain after you were so kind to rescue him. I know that you want the very best for him. Please get a second opinion.
 
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bunnytoes said:
I too live in the US and Never heard of this method of neutering a rabbit and I grew up on a farm. My grandparents had rabbits. So never heard of it being a farm thing either. I am in total shock. Just thinking about it:(

I know that you really love your rabbits. I can tell by all your post and pictures of them. I think that this vet just isn't rabbit savvy. I can tell that you would never want him to be in pain after you were so kind to rescue him. I know that you want the very best for him. Please get a second opinion.
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Alright everyone, I'll get a second opinion... But honestly this might be the only way it can be done. I lost my job and if I don't get another one soon I won't be able to afford to get him neutered at all.
 
courtneydayle said:
Alright everyone, I'll get a second opinion... But honestly this might be the only way it can be done. I lost my job and if I don't get another one soon I won't be able to afford to get him neutered at all.
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Then you can separate him from the girls and wait to neuter him until you have more money. That's what lots of people on here do. No one says 'I can't afford it so I'll use rubber bands or have a non-rabbit savvy vet neuter him and just take the risk, just because it's cheaper.'
 
courtneydayle said:
Alright everyone, I'll get a second opinion... But honestly this might be the only way it can be done. I lost my job and if I don't get another one soon I won't be able to afford to get him neutered at all.
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Good stuff :thumb: it will be better for him to be separate and intact than 'neutered' this way so don't worry about it needing to be done instantly. You can work to save money and have him neutered resposibly when you have the funds :) (terrible autocorrect there it changed funds to guns!).
 
I advise you to separate him for now and keep him unneutered until you can find/afford a vet that can neuter under general anaesthetic.

It's hard to really have an opposite opinion to someone and explain it without sounding like you're having a go at them, but I think all of us here just have the interest of the rabbit at heart and we don't mean to be nasty to you at all. We just want to make ourselves clear. I hope it comes across okay! :wave:

There's nothing wrong with saving up over time and getting him done when you can. In my opinion it's the same with female rabbits too. I would have to find a vet who has done a lot of female rabbits and had a VERY high success rate (99% or higher!) or I would not get them done. Even though most female rabbits gets uterine cancer by the age of five if they're not spayed I would have to find the right vet to do it or I would not do it. But that's my opinion, of course you're entitled to yours. :D
 
I don't understand how banding is even possible on a rabbit????
The holes in the band have to be big enough to allow fitting to the pliers, that hole would be too big to retain a young rabbits testes. Added to that a rabbits 'sack' is more a pair of longways pocket rather than the pendulous pouch of say a ram or bull. The idea of the ring is to cut blood supply, not squeeze the testes. Hence the reason most lambs/calves don't bat an eyelid. Banding something who's testicles aren't er, shall we say free swinging:oops: will be like putting them in a vice and crushing them.
Add to that banding is only suitable (and indeed legal in this country) up to the maximum of 7 days and what your vet is suggesting is nothing short of barbaric. :cry::cry::cry::cry:

I have heard of many ways of castrating a rabbit, but I have NEVER heard of this one. If on farm the only other method I know and I beg you not to use this way either is to remove the testes under local and leave the wound open:shock::shock:

You would not subject your dog to this treatment, the noise would be unbearable, please please please don't do it to a rabbit:cry::cry:
 
courtneydayle said:
Don't worry everyone, banding is completely safe. I've researched it plenty and it's safe. He'll be perfectly safe and in good hands.
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I was a little angry that you had got another rabbit when you didn't even know if you were going to have to separate the girls, and you said you didn't have another pen if you had to.

But I kept quiet... Now THIS???

No no no. Do NOT use banding to neuter your rabbit. They need GA, monitoring and a rabbit savvy vet. Not some hick farm vet who's never dealt with anything smaller than a sheep!!!!

Also, if you don't have a job and are tight on money, why are you taking on more pets and more responsibility? I just don't understand.
 
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I am so glad that you are thinking of going down the humane route. As others have said, if you can't afford to have him neutered under GA by a rabbit savvy pet, then wait until you can, and keep him seperated from the girls. To be honest, if a vet had suggested that method to me, I would have reported him instantly, because it is likely that he is doing this to other rabbits as well :evil:
 
My buns have been separated since july and will remain so til anoither 6 weeks at least. They're fine with it. It might be a bit of a hassle but if you love them they won't mind :)
 
Ouch ouch ouch :shock: Please do not let a vet band your rabbits, they're better of un-neutered than having that done to them, as others have said, their 'bits' are different to other animals it's done to and rabbits will easily go into stasis with pain. Is the vet male? I can't imagine any male suggesting such a technique :shock:
 
Geoff's people said:
I don't understand how banding is even possible on a rabbit????
The holes in the band have to be big enough to allow fitting to the pliers, that hole would be too big to retain a young rabbits testes. Added to that a rabbits 'sack' is more a pair of longways pocket rather than the pendulous pouch of say a ram or bull. The idea of the ring is to cut blood supply, not squeeze the testes. Hence the reason most lambs/calves don't bat an eyelid. Banding something who's testicles aren't er, shall we say free swinging:oops: will be like putting them in a vice and crushing them.
Add to that banding is only suitable (and indeed legal in this country) up to the maximum of 7 days and what your vet is suggesting is nothing short of barbaric. :cry::cry::cry::cry:

I have heard of many ways of castrating a rabbit, but I have NEVER heard of this one. If on farm the only other method I know and I beg you not to use this way either is to remove the testes under local and leave the wound open:shock::shock:

You would not subject your dog to this treatment, the noise would be unbearable, please please please don't do it to a rabbit:cry::cry:
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I was thinking the same thing - I doubt it would work the same with rabbits because their bits aren't like lambs, kids (goats), etc.
 
Banding isn't horrific, it's safe. Girls don't fight- they get on "genetically", and you can "keep an eye on" a boy bun after neuter to see if he's still fertile.

Words. Fail. Me.
 
This is so sad. :cry: Please don't go through with it, he would be better off left entire until you can afford to have it done correctly. This could cost him his life, not to mention the amount of pain he will be in.
 
Hi there how lovely you have decided to own rabbits, im not sure which country you are in firstly though the banding menthod either wont work or your bunny will probeblly die, often at maturity or sometimes later on in life the females will fight anyway so its better to neuter them also rememebr a rabbit lives 8-12 years and most unspeyed females die over age 3yrs because of ovarian cancer. it sounds like your vet is very un rabbit savvy and you defo need a second opinion, only because im not sure how much info you have on rabbits here are a few other things people dont always realise about rabbits

-teeth should be burred if they get long never clipped,
-rabbits diet should be 80% hay/fresh grass/fiberous forage (leaves etc) then a small handful of greens and a small egg cupful each of pellets morning and evening,
-rabbits can be litter trained once neutered.
-after neutereing rabbits must be kept warm as the ga will stop them being able to regulate their temperature
-an average emdium rabbit pair needs a 6x2x2ft hutch and a 6x6ft run as a minimum enclosure size bigger is always better.
-a rabbit who stops eating will be in gi stasis and need immediate vet treatment or death will shortly follow within 24-48hrs due to the nature of -their internal gi system.
-Rabbits should be vaccinated either with the double vaccs once a year or with the individual vaccinations annually for vhd and twice a year for myxi.
-pannacur is a wormer used to treat worms and or ec if given as a 28day dose
-a rabbit will hide illness if it looks it it is generally very severely ill
-fly strike can be prevented using rear gaurd on prescription.
- always clean a litter tray daily and ensure fresh hay to eat.
-bunnies often prefer a bowl of fresh water to a bottle
-a "green" water bottle can be cleaned using rice and water shaken then rinsed out.
-most rabbits hate being picked up because natrually they are prey animals
wire bottemed cages should never be used as they casue feet sores

Hope these help you read up some more information before you go any further in rabbit keeping yes its expensive but worth while when you watch them binky.
 
bunlover said:
Hi there how lovely you have decided to own rabbits, im not sure which country you are in firstly though the banding menthod either wont work or your bunny will probeblly die, often at maturity or sometimes later on in life the females will fight anyway so its better to neuter them also rememebr a rabbit lives 8-12 years and most unspeyed females die over age 3yrs because of ovarian cancer. it sounds like your vet is very un rabbit savvy and you defo need a second opinion, only because im not sure how much info you have on rabbits here are a few other things people dont always realise about rabbits

-teeth should be burred if they get long never clipped,
-rabbits diet should be 80% hay/fresh grass/fiberous forage (leaves etc) then a small handful of greens and a small egg cupful each of pellets morning and evening,
-rabbits can be litter trained once neutered.
-after neutereing rabbits must be kept warm as the ga will stop them being able to regulate their temperature
-an average emdium rabbit pair needs a 6x2x2ft hutch and a 6x6ft run as a minimum enclosure size bigger is always better.
-a rabbit who stops eating will be in gi stasis and need immediate vet treatment or death will shortly follow within 24-48hrs due to the nature of -their internal gi system.
-Rabbits should be vaccinated either with the double vaccs once a year or with the individual vaccinations annually for vhd and twice a year for myxi.
-pannacur is a wormer used to treat worms and or ec if given as a 28day dose
-a rabbit will hide illness if it looks it it is generally very severely ill
-fly strike can be prevented using rear gaurd on prescription.
- always clean a litter tray daily and ensure fresh hay to eat.
-bunnies often prefer a bowl of fresh water to a bottle
-a "green" water bottle can be cleaned using rice and water shaken then rinsed out.
-most rabbits hate being picked up because natrually they are prey animals
wire bottemed cages should never be used as they casue feet sores

Hope these help you read up some more information before you go any further in rabbit keeping yes its expensive but worth while when you watch them binky.
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The OP already keeps meat rabbits.
 
bunlover said:
Hi there how lovely you have decided to own rabbits, im not sure which country you are in firstly though the banding menthod either wont work or your bunny will probeblly die, often at maturity or sometimes later on in life the females will fight anyway so its better to neuter them also rememebr a rabbit lives 8-12 years and most unspeyed females die over age 3yrs because of ovarian cancer. it sounds like your vet is very un rabbit savvy and you defo need a second opinion, only because im not sure how much info you have on rabbits here are a few other things people dont always realise about rabbits

-teeth should be burred if they get long never clipped,
-rabbits diet should be 80% hay/fresh grass/fiberous forage (leaves etc) then a small handful of greens and a small egg cupful each of pellets morning and evening,
-rabbits can be litter trained once neutered.
-after neutereing rabbits must be kept warm as the ga will stop them being able to regulate their temperature
-an average emdium rabbit pair needs a 6x2x2ft hutch and a 6x6ft run as a minimum enclosure size bigger is always better.
-a rabbit who stops eating will be in gi stasis and need immediate vet treatment or death will shortly follow within 24-48hrs due to the nature of -their internal gi system.
-Rabbits should be vaccinated either with the double vaccs once a year or with the individual vaccinations annually for vhd and twice a year for myxi.
-pannacur is a wormer used to treat worms and or ec if given as a 28day dose
-a rabbit will hide illness if it looks it it is generally very severely ill
-fly strike can be prevented using rear gaurd on prescription.
- always clean a litter tray daily and ensure fresh hay to eat.
-bunnies often prefer a bowl of fresh water to a bottle
-a "green" water bottle can be cleaned using rice and water shaken then rinsed out.
-most rabbits hate being picked up because natrually they are prey animals
wire bottemed cages should never be used as they casue feet sores

Hope these help you read up some more information before you go any further in rabbit keeping yes its expensive but worth while when you watch them binky.
Click to expand...

OP is in the US and has numerous Rabbits

If the poor Buck is subjected to the barbaric procedure then he would have been better off left in the Pet Shop. Banding Rabbits is a procedure used for Meat Rabbits which may be why the OP is considering this method.

To quote a well respected Rabbit Vet from a previous thread about this ridiculous and horrific matter


marie_kubiak said:
Just taking the anatomical and physiological aspects into account (I'm not going to start on the emotional/moral bits!)...
Lambs are castrated by the ring method at 1-2 days of age (if I remember rightle, any older and it is not legal and other methods with analgesia are required). At this stage there is less innervation (ie. less sensitivity) in the tissues and the blood supply is not as large as it would be in a sexually mature ram. Rabbits do not have testes descended at this age and so this method should cannot be applied.
Anatomically, rabbits have very different testicular shape - they run more horizontally with no distinct space above them to place a band safely without the risk of catching part of the testicle and risking incomplete castration. Rabbits also have the complication of an incomplete inguinal ring - this means that if the testes 'drop off' after banding and the wound doesn't heal as it should then there is direct communication between the outside world and the abdominal cavity. Really not a good thing. Plus rabbits can retract their testicles through the inguinal ring and if the testicle escapes above the band then it won't be removed.
Rabbits need surgical castration with closure of the inguinal ring, and pain relief. No home methods can replace this!
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