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TOPIC NONE......

I would like to say this though.

my Bunny Poppy will never be Spayed and she is nearly 1 years old. and is a True Love Bunny. she has never bitten me agressively or other. she just follows me around like a dog circleing my legs. when ever you try to walk away from her. she comes to you makeing honking noises at you for attenshion of beeing stroked. and she's like the perfect bunny in my eyes.
she's a Love Bunny truly .

the only thing that drives me up the wall is when she is told off. as she leaves you little prezies on the floor her dropings and some times she wee's on the floor or on the bed in little spots of it in places.
that is the only thing I find anoying with her .

as every one thought she was toilet trained for a long whlie and now she's going back to weeing and droping again out side her indoor cage.

the only thing she has not done is chew the carpet i think she's stopt doing that as she use to do it at the edges of it . :)
which is good. she does not chew any wires now either that is also good .
because she was befor. :wink:

any way this is my rant on here with this .
 
My post from rabbis in need;

"Dwarf Lop Lover wrote:
"but i have a dwarf lop female unspayed.

and never will be spayed unless their is a real problem as it costs so much to have it done.

i can afford the injections .
and i think it's crule to spay her or any female bunny unless they have biten you agressively. which my bunny has not as she's a true love bunny . "



80% of female rabbits will develope cancer by the age of 5 unless they are speyed. I think the cost is well worth saving them from that. "
____________
 
I have all my females spayed & wouldn't consider not doing unless there was a reason they shouldn't have a GA. I must be dead cruel then

I'd rather they live a long healthy life, free from uterine & ovarian cancer & not feeling any of the stressful hormanal phases that unspayed buns go through, phantom pregnancies etc.

Also, spaying can help with litter training.
 
Yes I agree that the 'accidents' aren't anything to do with 'being told off' (how exactly do you tell her off btw?) and much more related to being hormonal and marking her territory. Which neutering is very likely to solve....
 
Not quite understanding this post -
But I agree 100 per cent with spaying unless they are way too old - and the Ga would be more risk than getting the cancer.
My bunnys temperament hasnt changed at all since having her done last year. I would say shes even nicer to have around.
 
I totally agree Angie65

I dont mind if people think this is harsh, but deliberatey not spaying a pet rabbit which isnt intended for breeding is just cruel! I've had 2 rescue unspayed rabbits (which the previous owners couldnt be bothered to spay) they both died due to Uterine cancer related problems (they were spayed too late) I think its extremely selfish not to spay your female rabbit, when the facts clearly state her life with almost definately be cut far too short. This may be acceptable in the wild where rabbits are not expected to live very long, but as a domestic pet, and armed with all the facts, I believe it is our duty to give them the healithiest and longest life possible.
 
You could be right Spacegirl,..... I agree with Snowflakes mummy, I dont totally understand the post either :?
 
Im not sure but I think she refered to another thread in which spaying was discussed, will go have a look :)
 
From the rabbit welfare association:

The RWF guide to having your rabbit neutered
Updated February 2002

Having your rabbit neutered is one of the most important steps you can take to help your pet enjoy a happy, healthy and long life. The main reason to have your rabbit neutered is so you can keep more than one rabbit without them fighting or causing a population explosion. But there are other advantages too. Neutered rabbits are less aggressive and territorial, and are more easily litter-trained if you want to keep your pet indoors as a houserabbit.


Male rabbits

Male rabbits (bucks) make responsive pets, but have the same drawbacks as tom cats if they're not castrated. Most are territorial and frequently sprayurine, and aggression is a common problem. They will also have to live alone, which isn't fair on an animal that needs company. Neutered males are much happier and more relaxed. They can enjoy life without constantly looking for a mate and are less aggressive and smelly! Nearly all neutered males will stop spraying urine even if the operation is performed later in life.


Castration is a relatively minor operation which can be performed as soon as the testicles descend (10-12 weeks) although most vets wait until the rabbit is 4 or 5 months old, when the operation is easier to perform and the anaesthetic risk is reduced. The testicles are removed via the scrotum or lower abdomen.



Female rabbits


Having female rabbits (does) spayed is even more important. Most females become territorial and aggressive from sexual maturity onwards (4-6 months). They have repeated false pregnancies, and may growl at, scratch and bite their owners as well as attacking other rabbits. Keeping two females together - even if they are sisters - can make things worse. Spaying reduces and sometimes eliminates these behavioural problems.


Spayed females are likely to live longer then their unspayed sisters. Up to 80% of unspayed female rabbits develop uterine cancer by 5 years of age. Females who are not spayed when young and in good health may have to undergo the operation in later life if pyometra (uterine infection) or cancer develops, although usually it is too late and the cancer has already spread.


Spaying is a bigger operation than castration. It's usually performed when the rabbit is at least 4 or 5 months old. The uterus and both ovaries are removed via the abdomen.



Is it safe?


In the past, rabbits gained a reputation for being difficult to anaesthetise, but the risks of rabbit anaesthesia have fallen significantly in recent years. Surgery on healthy rabbits is almost as safe as in cats. However, low risk does not mean no risk. Surgery on any animal can have unexpected complications. But for most rabbits the benefits of neutering far outweigh the very small risk.


Older rabbits and those in poor health are more difficult to neuter safely. If your pet rabbit is older than 3 years or has medical problems (such as obesity, dental disease or "snuffles" and related disorders) you must discuss the risks and benefits with your vet in order to choose the best option for your pet.



Choosing the right vet


It's important to choose a suitable veterinary practice to neuter your rabbit. Like any other specialist field, vets vary in their interest and expertise in rabbit medicine. Some questions to ask when choosing a vet include:

• Do they recommend vaccinations for VHD and Myxomatosis?

• Do they regularly neuter rabbits of both sexes?

• Rabbits need special care on the day of surgery. Will the vet use heat pads and warmed fluid therapy? Has the practice invested in modern surgical and monitoring equipment to help make surgery safer for rabbits?

• Do they give pain relieving drugs to all rabbits during and after neutering operations? If not, choose another vet.

• Are rabbits hospitalised away from dogs, cats and ferrets?


If you already use a veterinary practice, ask whether they neuter rabbits. Most small animal vets neuter males, but unless your vet operates on a lot of rabbits you may be referred to another practice to have a female spayed.



How much does it cost?


As a very rough guide, expect to pay £30-60 for a male rabbit to be castrated and £50-80 to spay a female.



Pre-operative care


Take your rabbit to the vet well before the operation date for a health check and to discuss the procedure. Ask if any pre-operative blood tests are advised. Don't change the diet in the week or so before surgery. Rabbits can't vomit, so they don't need to be fasted before surgery. They should be offered food and water right up to the time of surgery and as soon as they wake up.



Post operative care


Your rabbit should be awake, alert and preferably eating when you collect it after surgery. Remember to check:

• Has the rabbit been given pain relieving drugs? If not, request some.

• Who should be contacted if there are any problems?

• Do you need to book an appointment for a check-up, or for stitches to be removed?

• How long should the rabbit be on cage rest? (usually 2 days for males, 5 or 6 for females)


When you get your rabbit home, put it in a disinfected cage indoors with comfortable bedding (e.g. clean towels or Vet Bed) and a clean litter tray or newspapers. Most vets use special suture techniques to prevent rabbits chewing at stitches, but you should still check the operation site daily for any discharge or swelling.


Males usually bounce back from their operation, but females may be quiet for a day or so. The most important thing is to get your rabbit eating, or the digestive system may grind to a halt. Vets try very hard to avoid this complication, using drugs to relieve pain and stimulate the gut, but you should be prepared to tempt the rabbit with nibbles of favourite food. Freshly picked grass or herbs often work. If your rabbit isn't eating by next morning, call the vet for advice. You should also monitor the rabbits' droppings for a few days and contact the vet if few or none are produced.



If you have two rabbits.....


If you have two rabbits of the same sex living together, have them neutered at the same time and keep them together. If you have a male and a female, you need to be a bit more careful. Male rabbits remain fertile for up to 4 weeks after castration. Females must be kept away from males for about 14 days after being spayed. It's best to keep them separate (but in adjacent cages) except when you can supervise them very closely.



Mix 'n' Match


Every bunny needs a friend. It's wonderful watching a bonded pair interact, but rabbits are territorial creatures - introductions must be gradual and carefully supervised!

• Neutered male + spayed female is by far the easiest combination.

• Keeping two males or females together can be difficult or impossible unless they have grown up together. They must be neutered as soon as possible, and never separated, even for short periods of time.

• Seek expert advice before trying to introduce two rabbits of the same sex who are more than 3-4 months old.
 
I had Bandit done after an accident with one of my boys.....at a cost of £66 which I couldn't really afford at the time however I did it, it just meant that I had to go without some things until I recovered the money

Anyway point of this is, she's only just three but the vet found cancerous cysts on her ovaries when she was spayed, so for the cost of £66 and going without things it saved her life, she's so much happier and still with us today :)
 
Hi

I have a 1 & a half year old dutch & when i took her for her myxi & vhd jabs i asked the vet about getting her spayed & he said they don't like to do it unless she were to become agressive.

My holly is really docile & by going on the vets advice i didn't get her "done".

So do you all really recommend this? The other thing i'm worried about is if she doesn't come round from the operation.

Can anyone tell me how long is the operation & how long do they keep her in for & what is the aftercare for this? Thx
 
michelle&holly said:
Hi

I have a 1 & a half year old dutch & when i took her for her myxi & vhd jabs i asked the vet about getting her spayed & he said they don't like to do it unless she were to become agressive.

My holly is really docile & by going on the vets advice i didn't get her "done".

So do you all really recommend this? The other thing i'm worried about is if she doesn't come round from the operation.

Can anyone tell me how long is the operation & how long do they keep her in for & what is the aftercare for this? Thx

Hi :wave:

I would definately recommend girlie bunnies are speyed due to the risk of cancer. I have had 6 girls speyed with no problems, ask your vet lots of questions, if they are good they won't mind this. The main thing is to get them eating post op, so lots of their favorite veg/dandelion leaves etc usually does the trick. With one of my girls I had to syringe feed her for the first 24 hours, and got more painkillers from the vet.

BTW, I hope that your myxi and VHD jabs were done at least 2 weeks apart, or its unlikely that either one will 'take' effectively :wink:
 
Hi

Yeah jabs were done just over 2 weeks apart - vet told me it had to be the case.

Do the vets keep the girlies in over night? and how long roughly does the op take?

My holly is an outdoor bun - would i need to keep her indoors or put her in hutch with vetbed or something?

does their fur get shaved off for the op?

Thx
 
michelle&holly said:
Hi

Yeah jabs were done just over 2 weeks apart - vet told me it had to be the case.

Do the vets keep the girlies in over night? and how long roughly does the op take?

My holly is an outdoor bun - would i need to keep her indoors or put her in hutch with vetbed or something?

does their fur get shaved off for the op?

Thx

I kept mine in a couple of nights after their spay and then put them back in their hutches with vetbed :D Yes they do have a tiny patch of their fur shaved. You can usually collect your bun that night although one of mine stayed overnight, but only because she is a difficult bunny and the vet wanted to keep an eye on her :lol: Both my girls recovered fine from the op, its definetly worth it :D

Im not sure how long the actual operation takes, I dropped Scarlett of in the morning and collected her that evening.

If you are worried about it have a word with a good rabbit savvy vet :D I was very worried that Buu wouldnt come round after the op but I felt a lot better after speaking to my vet (loads of times :oops: ) In the end I decided the risk of going under anasthetic was not as bad as the risk of cancer and she was fine :D And remember there are a lot more spays that go fine with no problems compared to the ones that dont go well :wink:
 
To be honest do not get a rabbit as a pet if you are going to tell them off for having accidents, any rabbit has little accidents every now and then even whn litter trained a few poops will go out of the litter tray.
 
I adopted a little girlie bun (6-7 mths old) from the RSPCA around 6 weeks ago, she was done on the Tuesday afternoon and they said I could collect her Wednesay morning, most vets wont need to keep them in over night. I decided to leave her there for an extra day jusy to make sure she wasnt pulling at her stitches or anything, but she was fine when I collected her. She was due to be an outdoor bunny but I kept her indoors, fairly confined in a dog crate, so she couldnt jump/run about too much and hurt herself, but to be honest she acted like it had never been done, it didnt seem to bother her at all and she was flying round the lounge at every opportunity. I decided to get her a boyfriend so didnt actually put her in the outside hutch until he arrived, but she could have gone out in a few days really.

I cant believe some people dont have their rabbits neutered because of cost??? Surely if you cant afford 60 odd pounds, you cant afford a pet at all, what about those unexpected vets bills we all get, my last bunny needed an op to remove a lump, I got a bill for £180. Pets are not cheap.
 
Thanks for advice will definately make some enquiries with the vet. Just so attached to my holly now that anything worries me!

only thing is my dad won't let me have her stay in the house so would she be okay going straight out into her hutch? As weather is now a bit warmer?

I think i would have to take a few days off work when i get her done - so i can keep an eye on her. Give her some tlc.

how much is the cost roughly? Obv depending on vets.
 
my girls were £50 each, some are more, some less. If you have to keep her outside I would maybe leave it for a month or so, to be sure there are no more frosty nights :wink:
 
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