Bonding methods and age difference in bonding

Hi all,

I was wondering if anyone, especially people who are experienced with bonding, could help me out. I went to two rescues today to see if they had any potential girlfriends for Zion. Both rescues said that they won't bond the bunnies but that I will have to take the female home and bond them gradually over a few weeks. They said they will have to be kept in separate houses but can see and smell eachother in a run and then gradually introduce them over a period of weeks.

I'm just a bit confused as I have heard so much conflicting info on bonding bunnies. Obviously I don't want either bunny to hurt each other but I don't want to stress the bunnies by prolonging the process. Both bunnies will be outdoor bunnies but the only neutral territory I have is my bathroom or spare bedroom. I don't want to keep them indoors for weeks and then put them back out once they have bonded due to the cold.

I can do the run thing. I haven't attached my run to the playhouse yet and my old hutch is still attached to the run. So I could attach the hutch/run combo to the playhouse and put a mesh panel in the middle but bonding without barriers will mean coming inside. Argh I am so confused. I don't know what to do.

Another question I have is there is a possible female bunny (there seems to be a distinct lack of female bunnies in the south west) but she is only about 8-9 weeks old. They have said I could bring Zion there and see if they get on but full blown bonding would be up to me. Is she too young to be bonded to Zion (neutered male, almost a year old).

Thanks for any advice given.

Shiv

thats a shame i dont see why these places wont bond, personally i dont like any of mine to leave without being bonded first and most people acept this as i would hate the bunnies to be stuck in a home where it didnt get along with the bunny and they felt attached to it where they wouldnt bring it back (i donty let bunnies go to be solo bunns personal choice) , plus bonding is relatively easy you tend to know whether a bond is going to go well within the first half an hourish then its just a waiting game....

i would insist that you bring your bunny along and at least try them therer first and if they seemed to ie.. all the usual signs then i would put them in neutral territory until the bond is strengened...

age between bunnies has no relivance!! all this is just my opinion!

Eve x

Kay (kayj) said Pippa's bonding with MJ was easy but even so, I took Pippa, we introduced them in a run keeping a very close eye on them. There was a bit of chasing and humping and then they settled down eating together. Kay said after about 15 mins it was looking promising and we probably stayed for about another one and half hours before bringing them home.

I'd keep looking for a rescue that will bond, it really shouldn't be that complicated should it?

Ok well the place where I may be getting the female from say Zion must be brought to the rescue to try them out together in neutral territory first so thats good and better than the other rescue.

I am glad age isn't an issue. I was just worried about her being a 'baby' and Zion maybe taking advantage of that (although I cannot imagine he ever would as he is so placid but hey you never know).

The rescues excuse for not bonding bunnies is because they think it should be a gradual process and should take at least 2 weeks (meaning they should touch noses through mesh for 2 weeks before being in the same area together) which doesn't make sense to me after everything I have read on here. One said they have had numerous bunnies that have come back with horrendous injuries by just bunging bunnies in together.

It's so hard getting conflicting information.

Say everything goes well with the 8-9 week old (she was a stray found wondering around and handed into a volunteer who works at the rescue) at the preliminal meeting at the rescue, what do I do when I get them both home? Let them run around the kitchen (large) together? I could leave the windows open to keep the room cool and leave them in there overnight? (although not sure if next doors cats would be tempted to jump in).

Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Shiv

kayjay said:

Kay (kayj) said Pippa's bonding with MJ was easy but even so, I took Pippa, we introduced them in a run keeping a very close eye on them. There was a bit of chasing and humping and then they settled down eating together. Kay said after about 15 mins it was looking promising and we probably stayed for about another one and half hours before bringing them home.

I'd keep looking for a rescue that will bond, it really shouldn't be that complicated should it?

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There are only two rescues (excluding the RSPCA in Exeter but they won't rehome to Plymouth) in my area so I am not really spoilt with choice. I could probably press the rescue who will let bunnies meet in their neutral territory run to keep them in there for about an hour. I suppose that is better than nothing.....

personlly i ask all adoptors to get here early of the morning of the bonding then they spend all day in a run together, if that goes well i bring them in and put them into a indoor cage where i can keep and eye on them until i go to bed then i put them outside my bedroom door, i am a light sleeper and can keep and ear out for them!

Wouldn't it be better if you got a neutered female for Zion? If you take a baby, and then have her neutered later, she may change again and not get along with him any longer. I don't know if that can happen, I just assume it might. :?

Bavarian Bunny said:

Wouldn't it be better if you got a neutered female for Zion? If you take a baby, and then have her neutered later, she may change again and not get along with him any longer. I don't know if that can happen, I just assume it might. :?

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that doesnt happen very often, the only problem there is she will be prone to uterine cancer if not speyed but that can be done at a later date when there bond is established and she is old enough of course, i take the bonded patrner to the vets also when i am getting one of a pair neutered!

bunnylove said:

Bavarian Bunny said:

Wouldn't it be better if you got a neutered female for Zion? If you take a baby, and then have her neutered later, she may change again and not get along with him any longer. I don't know if that can happen, I just assume it might. :?

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that doesnt happen very often, the only problem there is she will be prone to uterine cancer if not speyed but that can be done at a later date when there bond is established and she is old enough of course, i take the bonded patrner to the vets also when i am getting one of a pair neutered!

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Yes my intention is to get her speyed as soon as she would be old enough and he would go with her to the vets if they are bonded. I have been told that sometimes unspeyed females bond better to neutered males but I know this will depend more on the bun than the fact that they're an unspeyed female.

Ideally I would love to get Zion a speyed female but the availability of females down here (let alone speyed) is ridiculously low and I can't really send Zion up north for a dating session.

Thanks for your thoughts though.

Bunnylove - if only you was based in the south west I understand your stance on bonding and if only every rescue adopted this method but unfortunately they just don't. Considering what I have to play with re: amount of time they will have in the rescue, what would you suggest when I get them home if all goes well? :?

Thanks in advance

Hi,

I totally agree with all Eve has said and consider bonding a very important part of my rescue.

One of the good aspects with this partnership is that as the doe is so young she will not be a threat to your bunny and, therefore, should be easier to bond than an older doe.

I am more than happy to send you the RWA leaflet which explains a little bit more how to bond.

I have taken in quite a few bunnies from your area recently. A friend of mine has moved there and chooses to bring them to me rather than trust the local rescue facilities. Are the bunny rescues close to you just rabbit rescues or do they need to cater for cats/dogs as well etc? If so, this could explain why they do not assist with the bonding. It can be a drawn out experience, depending on bunnies previous assosiation with other rabbits, and some rescues just do not have the time to do this. I have recently sent two extremely happy rabbits off to their new home. It took me 5 weeks to bond them. Luckily their new mum was aware of the diifficult background of one of them and understood why I took so long.

Alice

The rescues excuse for not bonding bunnies is because they think it should be a gradual process and should take at least 2 weeks (meaning they should touch noses through mesh for 2 weeks before being in the same area together) which doesn't make sense to me after everything I have read on here. One said they have had numerous bunnies that have come back with horrendous injuries by just bunging bunnies in together

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I got loads of diff advice when I was re-bonding Honey & Harly (they were apart 8 weeks when neutered, and had been aggressive 2 each other previously), some people said just put them 2gther and hope for the best, i was a bit dubious about this. In the end I got advice from a lady at a rescue that was really helpful, this is wht she said (and wht I did)

1)Put runs as close 2gether as poss so can see/smell each other, or if have only 1 run section it off (well) in2 2 parts

2) give them a litter tray each, swap this over regularly (gets used 2 scent in 'their' place

3) swap over their hutches if possible (I did this twice a week when did a full bedding change for 3 weeks) also gets them used 2 scent

4) finally take them to a neutral place 2gether, it needs 2 be pretty small so cant totally be away frm each other, but big enough so can get away if want (I used my bathroom),give them a car basket each, & put them in it. Have food, water & toys there 2 distract them. Can sit between them at first if nervous, speak 2 them calmly and slowly & stroke them. Let them come out of their baskets to each other in their own time. Expect a scuffle & some fur pulling, especially if 1 goes in2 anothers basket, as long as not hurting each other its ok. If feel going to far, u can seperate them and say no, try to distract them with toys and food. If getting on, keep them 2gether as long as poss (remember 2 take a book in with you if getting on :lol: ), if not, aim 2 build time up gradually - say 30mins 1st night, 45 2nd, till feel can leave them overnight together. Treat them after each time, learn them being together is a gd experience. Finally, leave them overnight when u feel they'r ready, at least tht way if scuffle does break up through night you'll hear it and can stop it (it only took me 2 meetings 2 get 2 overnight, but I left them in bathroom 4 nights more, 2 be sure, 1st night left 2 baskets in, rest just left 1). Meantime, give hutch and run good scrub and disinfect to remove scents, if possible move the run 2 new part garden. Then try in hutch!

Good luck

I too offer a bonding service and think all rescues should.
The only possible problem with her being a youngster might be her size...if she is much smaller that your boy she may get hurt if the bonding is one of the more lively ones! Just my opinion :?

Awwwww thank you Lucy you're a star. I think I will probably go with those instructions as I am then being faithful to the rescues and how they suggest I do it and its sounds like a pretty comprehensive way of going about it. Only thing I won't be able to do is move the run as it will be attached to the playhouse which can't be moved shock but I am sure that won't be too much of a problem. At least if I bond them in the bathroom I can leave the window right open so they will still need their wooly coats for when they go back outside.

Hi Alice - thank you for your advice. I am sure I will be able to get hold of the RWA leaflet on bonding but if I cannot I will let you know. The rescues I am talking about are 2 of those on the RR website under Devon. If you know of any specific rabbit rescues in the Plymouth area then please let me know. May be worth getting them put on RR as well, as rescuing rabbits seems to be a significant problem down here - unfortunately with availability in the public eye. I thought the same with the fact the bunny is young and so will probably be easier to bond. Only thing that concerns me is as she gets older and more hormonal before she is spayed she may get more bolshy with him and cause fights :?

HB - yes I understand what you're saying about size. Unfortunately I didn't see the bunny today as it was still at the ladies house. The staff who deal with the rabbits are specific to the rabbit section so they are pretty knowledgeable and I am sure they wouldn't put a bunny in danger unnecessarily. They know Zion as he came from the rescue in question and he has always been placid and friendly and they remembered him so they must think its worth a try. I will keep a close eye on them as well. Last thing I want is an injured bunny but I do want a girlfriend for Zion

Thanks guys - I am feeling much happier. You're all stars!!

I do bonding here as well if the owners want me too and it takes on average three days for them to be loving towards eachother. I dont agree with long drawn out bonding. There introduced in a run together to start as sometimes theres an instant dislike [ i would change the rabbit if that happened], if all goes well in the run they are put in a nuteral cage or the bucks cage and stay in there hutch for three days. Sometimes there is fighting but if no blood is drawn then leave them but watch them. Alot of the time they need to sort out whos the top dog. If you watch carefully when they fight it hair pulling and not biting that takes place. After a couple of tiffs its resolved and there friends. Ive bonded a lot of rabbits this way and theve lived happily ever after. As for introducing a baby rabbit to an adult i dont agree with that. Most males carry on humping and this would not be fare on a baby rabbit. To add to this theres more chance of a serious fight because adult rabbits carnt easily tell what sex the baby is because the smell like neither male or female. The buck may presume its a male and there could be serious fighting, again not fare on a baby rabbit.I would pick an adult doe and check with the rescue that it can be changed if the worst happens. When you get them home introduce them in a run for a while then if alls well put them together and keep an eye on them for the rest of the next couple of days. val

Thank you Val. This site can put me in a bit of a predicament sometimes :lol: I dunno. I think I may just go and see how they get on at the rescue and if I am uncomfortable with any slight factor of it I will definately pull out.

One issue is I work full time, 9-5.30 Mon-Fri so I could start a bonding on a Friday night in the hope I can keep an eye on them all weekend but I can't watch them for longer than that.

I once bonded a baby male with a 1-year old female. I had the female first, and then got the male about 8 months later. Luckily there was no fighting or anything. The female would hump the male once in a while and defend him when I tried to reach into the cage, but they never had a serious fight.