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Aquiring rabbits

Athena

Young Bun
Can you talk me through the options please?

Rescues im assuming (if its a good rescue, i would research) rabbits would be fully vaccinated, neutered and possibly bonded

Small ads: (i mean free to good home types id never pay for animals on these sites) im assuming the buns will generally be unhandled unvaccinated not neutered in most cases. Ive never had rabbits before but i have lots of experience with other animals and enjoy taking on 'lost causes' and turning them into happy animals. Are there any other downsides of rehoming through gumtree etc? There seem to be so many rabbits on there surplus to requirements who i can only guess get ignored :(
 
Good rescues do indeed do all of that, and it's a lot cheaper. I paid £45 for my girly bun and she was neutered and vaccinated (she's cost me a bomb since then but thats another story... :lol: ). They will also have pairs or be able to bond for you, and you also have their backup in case the worst happens and you can't keep them anymore. You're also freeing up spaces for other bunnies to go in to.

Free adds... You have no idea if they're telling the truth. Females could be pregnant, missexing is common, had no health check so they could come to you seriously ill/needing dental work. No neutering (even if they say they had it done, they could have lied), no vaccs, and no idea if you're supporting a back yard breeder without knowing about it.
 
We have done P@H adoption, adopted through our vets (homless baby buns) and we are about to adopt our first two from BARC rescue :)
 
Seeing all the free ads is what has made me decide i want rabbits, im a rat peron naturally but often they are all lumped in the same category.

By supporting bybs do you mean they would advertise excess stock as free for want of a better way of putting it

Eta: im always suspiscious of pets at home adoption as i know they move regular stock over when its 'too old' to sell :(
 
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Seeing all the free ads is what has made me decide i want rabbits, im a rat peron naturally but often they are all lumped in the same category.

By supporting bybs do you mean they would advertise excess stock as free for want of a better way of putting it

Yeah, excess stock, wrong colours... Granted it's not the worst thing that they could do but if it is a BYB then it encourages them to do it more
 
This is my article on this (or half of it, rest to follow).

Sky-O said:
Where to get a rabbit from​

There are a variety of places you can get a rabbit from. There are different points to consider for all of them, so it comes down to making an informed choice based on what you want from a rabbit and what you feel is best for your family and any rabbit/s involved.

It is also important to know that you can get amazing rabbits from anywhere, and it can be pure luck. Where you get the rabbit from is not completely reflective of the behaviour and personality of the rabbits, although it can play a part.

This section just looks at the different issues and different things to consider when adopting or buying a rabbit from these various places. The most important thing to remember though, is to go and meet and see the rabbit regardless of where you get it from, before you commit to taking it home.

~A Rescue Centre or a Rabbit Rescue- A variety of different types of rabbits come into rescues. People commonly presume that animals are there because they have been severely neglected or abused. There is, of course, a percentage that have been (especially animals in the care of places like the RSPCA) however there are many others who have not. Rabbits may be there if they have been found as a stray and not claimed, if an owner has got ‘bored’, if circumstances at ‘home’ have changed, if the rabbits are an unwanted and/or accidental litter, if an owner is not fully educated about the needs of rabbits when getting one and is unable to cope with their needs, if an owner gets ill or dies and many other reasons. Getting a rabbit from a rescue does not mean it will be ‘damaged’ or aggressive, or badly behaved or anything different from any other rabbit. You can also find rabbits of all ages in a rescue, including babies and young rabbits.

As with any place, there are good and bad rescues.

A good rescue will vaccinate and spay/neuter (where applicable) and home check potential adopters. A good rescue will be clean, the rabbits will have unlimited hay, the accommodation will be clean, the rabbits will have access to fresh water. The accommodation will be large (but not necessarily meet full requirements because it will be deemed ‘temporary’). The rabbits will generally look in good condition and be bright and alert.

The person who runs the rescue or a member of staff should be able to give you good and detailed information on the rabbit/s. The rabbit should have been at the rescue long enough so that the rescue can be confident it has no health issues (or has health issues that will be discussed with you). Ideally this time will be at least a week, but preferably a little longer. A reputable rescue would not deliberately breed (either rescue animals or other animals) although you may find there are babies there if the animal has arrived pregnant, or the animals are motherless.

Often a rescue will know more about the rabbit than anywhere else might because generally the person running the rescue, or the staff, are very knowledgeable about the personalities and health issues of any rabbits.

Generally when you adopt from a rescue the rabbit will come spayed/neutered and vaccinated, although this does not apply to all rescues, so it is vital to check with any rescue you contact.

Rescues are focused primarily on what is in the best interests of the rabbit which can assure you that their needs are being put first. Generally this means responsible owners and rescues are ‘on the same page’ because all parties involved are looking at what’s best for the rabbits.

You are likely to be able to choose, within a bit, the rabbit/s that you want, however, the rescue is likely to guide you as to which will better suit your household and why. If you are looking for a single rabbit to bond to an existing rabbit of yours, then likely the rescue will be able to help you select the right one. Some rescues even help with bonding and some provide a follow up or ‘outreach’ service to help with any difficulties or problems you have.
It is also likely that you will need a home visit to adopt from the majority of rescues. This is not as scary as it sounds.

Like with any place there are ‘good’ rescues and ‘bad’ rescues; those who neuter and spay, those who don’t, those who vaccinate, those who don’t, those that are badly run, unclean, those that are run brilliantly and the bunnies are well looked after, so it’s important to take each rescue as an individual and find out how they work and their adoption procedure before pursuing anything.

Adopting a rabbit from a rescue is also often a cheaper option, although this should not be a reflection on your choice. Generally you will know what you are adopting, and it will come vaccinated and spayed/neutered, so your main expense initially will be ensuring you have appropriate accommodation for the rabbits.

~A Breeder- Buying rabbits from a breeder can be desirable to some people, especially those who want a specific breed of rabbit.
When choosing a breeder it is important to choose a reputable and responsible breeder, whose rabbits are treated well, live in clean, large environments, are vaccinated and generally have a good life. Generally breeders fall into two categories, those who are responsible with their rabbits, and those who are deemed ‘Back Yard Breeders’ (or BYB).

A responsible breeder will be able to tell you about their rabbits. S/he will be able to tell you about their temperaments and likes and dislikes. The accommodation will be very clean and fresh. The rabbits will have unlimited hay and clean, fresh water available. The accommodation will also be a good size and the rabbits will be able to enjoy the space. The female rabbits will be bred no more frequently than once every six months (which allows 31 days of pregnancy, 8 weeks of raising the kits, and then three months to recover). The genetic history will be known of all the rabbits, and the breeder should have information on the previous four generations (at least) for every rabbit they have bred. All the rabbits sold will be healthy (unless you have previously discussed a condition or issue).

Ideally these breeders will also spay/neuter (although this won’t be possible if s/he is selling baby rabbits) and vaccinate before rehoming to the public and also rehome in pairs. The breeder will also provide a minimum of 2 weeks food. Essentially, the breeder will respect his/her rabbits and treat them according to that respect.

A BYB’s set up will likely differ from this; in many cases by the complete opposite. A BYB’s accommodation may not be clean, it may smell, the rabbits may not have appropriate hay or food, the water may not be clean or fresh. The rabbits that have been bred from may have health issues, may not have a genetic history (such as if they were purchased at a pet shop), maybe have been bred from ‘back to back’ (such as been pregnant, raised the litter, and then made pregnant immediately after the rabbits have been separated, or worse, the female rabbit may be forced to become pregnant as soon as she has given birth to one litter). The baby rabbits may be separated from mum earlier than 8 weeks.
For these reasons it’s important to see the set up the rabbits live in to see whether its clean, whether the hutches are a good size (minimum of 6ft) and to glean a general idea of how the rabbits are kept and also to ask the breeder a lot of questions. Some breeders will allow you to see their Rabbitry, others will not (for very valid reasons). If someone does not allow you to see into their Rabbitry, then ask to see photos of the setup, where you can also see the rabbit/s you are interested in buying, so that you know the pictures are genuinely from their Rabbitry. That will give you an idea of the conditions the rabbits are kept in.

A positive thing about going to a responsible breeder is that you can ask for the history and genetics and any genetic defaults of your rabbit. A responsible breeder would not breed a rabbit with known genetic defaults, but sometimes they can occur as a bunny ages, so would not be known when the rabbits were bred.

A breeder is likely to sell young rabbits and also older rabbits and it’s important to talk to them about what you want from your bunny and what you want to buy and why. Depending on the age of the rabbit and the breeder’s policies, the expense can vary. A breeder may sell older rabbits spayed/neutered and vaccinated, which means the initial cost will be accommodation, but for baby rabbits the expense is likely to be higher (and may include spaying/neutering and vaccinations as well as separate accommodations if you buy two rabbits and they are separate genders, both males, or girls who fight).

Just my opinion :)
 
Rest of it

Sky-O said:
~A Pet Shop- It can be very appealing to buy a rabbit from a pet shop. They can often be easy to purchase and can show themselves off very well in the right environment in a pet shop where they are well cared for.

Rabbits bought from a pet shop have had a lot of upheaval in their early lives, given that they have come from a breeder, and gone to a pet shop, and then will move on to a home, so it’s one more upheaval and stress than if you get them directly from a breeder. Given that stress can affect the immune system, they can be on the ‘back foot’ with health before even arriving.

Often, but not always, rabbits that come from a pet shop have been bred by commercial breeders or BYB’s (see the previous section on buying from a breed) which, again, can affect the health of the rabbit you are buying, but there can be cruelty and/or neglect at the place where the rabbits are bred. You also have no knowledge on their past and any genetic issues that may arise in the future.

You do get the opportunity to choose whichever animal you would like from the selection they have, whereas a breeder is likely to have a smaller selection to choose from.

The cost of buying from a pet shop is likely to be high. It’s not sensible to trust what you’re told about the gender of the rabbit/s because many are sold sexed wrongly. This means you will need two sets of appropriate accommodation if you buy two rabbits. You will also need to factor in the cost of the vaccinations and the neutering/spaying. There is also the added risk/expectation that a pet shop bunny may have health issues because it comes with no knowledge of its background or breeding.

~A Private Individual- Private individuals can rehome their rabbits for many reasons; accidental litter, unable to meet the rabbits needs any more, ill health of the owner, and many more besides.

You might find a private individual via places and adverts on the internet, or via adverts in the papers or at vets or shops. The rabbits being rehomed can be a wide variety, of a variety of ages.

When you rehome from a rescue, the animal will likely come with a vet check. When you buy from a pet shop, the animal will likely come with a guarantee. However, when rehoming from a private individual you won’t know what you are going to get and there is no follow up or back up. It is reliant solely on the word of the individual, and some will be completely honest, good, decent people, but others may be less than trustworthy.

When rehoming from a private individual it is important to make sure you get any vaccination cards (if the owner says they are vaccinated). It is also important to be aware you could be taking on a rabbit with any health issue and be prepared for this, and also be able and ready to quarantine the rabbit for a minimum of four weeks (or five weeks if it is a female you are getting). There is the possibility of pregnancy, and also, if you have been told the rabbit is spayed or neutered, then it is possible that is not the case, so it is important for you to clarify with your rabbit savvy vet what their views are on that particular rabbit.

If you are taking on a single rabbit to bond to an existing one of yours, then you need to be prepared and willing for if the bond does not work and what you will do with the new rabbit then.

Depending on the situation, taking on a rabbit from a private individual can be akin to rescuing a rabbit. It can be incredibly rewarding to take on a rabbit from a horrendous situation, but equally, you will have no back up of a rescue, or any support, and will have to deal with all the consequences of those conditions, yourself. The financial cost may be high, and time needed to nurse the rabbit may be large, the emotional cost is also likely to be high as well.
Equally, you may find a totally healthy rabbit, with a beautiful personality, who has only ever known love.
It’s very much more a pot luck situation when it comes to taking a rabbit on from a private individual, and it important to weigh up whether you are prepared to take that risk or not.

The costs can vary wildly. The initial rabbit may be free, or low cost, but there is a likelihood that vaccinations may be needed, and also clarification of spaying or neutering, or the full procedure. There may be a variety of health issues too. There will obviously be the cost of the accommodation (or two sets if you are taking on babies, or if the rabbit ‘divorce’).
 
I would definitely agree about the last paragraphs -

rescuing a bunny from a bad situation on gumtree etc can be really rewarding if you have the confidence you can cope with visiting and taking the bun out (and refusing it if its a BYB). I have 3 fro those sitiations andhave never regreted it.

But then I also adopt from rescues and have some P@H adoptions as well (no breeders buns though;))
 
Personally I would go with a reputable rescue, I wouldn't mind a bunny with issues as long as I knew in advance and a rescue can tell you that. I don't like surprises!
 
I definitely agree with going to a good rescue. I was mainly a rat person but took Stanley on as temporary measure until he could get to a rescue as they were going to set him loose if he wasn't gone by the saturday :censored:. Less than 24hrs later I was trying to work out if and how I could keep him :lol: In all honesty it would have been much easier getting a pair from a rescue as they will already be bonded as well as neutered and vaccinated. I got Chilli his friend from a great rescue and had lots of helpful advice, they were bonded there but that was his second girlfriend as his first bonding failed which was extremely stressful. A rescue can also advise which pair could be more suited to you. Watching Stanley and Chilli running around the supervised area of the garden is so relaxing, I'm very glad they are with me.
 
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