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Application of Fly-guard Advice Please

Janey

Warren Veteran
I normally apply rear-guard to Poppy as she gets a sticky bottom. The rear-guard says to apply from middle of back to tip of tail and I believe (as I have always done it), to apply underneath by her bottom/ tummy area. This year I have got fly-guard as it's much cheaper & I've been advised does the same job, the fly-guard however just says to apply from middle of back to tip of tail, it doesn't mention underneath.

This concerns me because she mainly gets dirty underneath, not her back tail/area. Do you think I should do a couple of sprays underneath?
 
I don't know anything about this as I don't have outside bunnies but I wanted to bump this up for you. I am sure someone must know.
 
Thank you. Mine are actually inside to but I'm paranoid about Poppy & her dirty bum. Just bumping again incase any one has advice :)
 
I honestly think you are better off trying to work out what is causing the sticky bum than using a product like this. What are you feeding and in what quantities?

I've had a couple of buns with this problem and after getting their diet right they didn't experience the problem again.
 
I did a couple of sprays on Daisy underneath between her bits and her tail making sure I didnt get any on her bits!! The active ingredient is Ivermectin which most people use to get rid off mites and that is normally applied to the skin behind the neck. Daisy has shown no ill effects from it!
 
I honestly think you are better off trying to work out what is causing the sticky bum than using a product like this. What are you feeding and in what quantities?

I've had a couple of buns with this problem and after getting their diet right they didn't experience the problem again.

I would LOVE to solve the problem but she has always been that way (I've had her for over 4 years). The problem is she's a dental bun so despite trying her with a range of hays she barely touches them, you can actually hear he teeth squeak on the rare occasion she eats hay. As a result I have to feed her more pellets and veg, otherwise she loses weight. It's an on-going battle that I wish I could solve, if anyone can offer anything I could do to solve the problem i'm open to trying anything. I do feed her excel and did change over to Science Selective, however, not long after her and Peter had stasis where they both were at the vets for days. Although it was put down to a virus and they don't normally (fingers crossed), suffer with their tummies, I'm too paranoid to try it again (they were weaned slowly onto it so it wasn't that).

Thanks Boudicca, I will gve her a couple of sprays trying to stay clear of her 'bits', I imagine it is pretty much the same as rear-guard but didn't want to risk anything.
 
You could try Protexin Profibre pellets, I use these for my dental bunny Kenco who was underweight and had problems with his poos. He does eat hay, just not very much. I add a scoop of these to his normal pellets. They have added fibre and help with weight maintenance. You can get them from Vets UK, they come in a big tub and last for ages.

Also have you tried him with fresh or dried plantain? Kenco loves this and is fibrous. Fluffers on here is also selling bags of fresh hawthorn (thread in fundraising section) and that might help with fibre. Have you tried readigrass at all? Just trying to think of different things to suggest.

As with all new foods, introduce gradually.

Just wanted to add that when you clean her underneath area, will that not wash the Flyguard off that area too? I dont know how often it needs to be/can be reapplied?
 
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You could try Protexin Profibre pellets, I use these for my dental bunny Kenco who was underweight and had problems with his poos. He does eat hay, just not very much. I add a scoop of these to his normal pellets. They have added fibre and help with weight maintenance. You can get them from Vets UK, they come in a big tub and last for ages.

Also have you tried him with fresh or dried plantain? Kenco loves this and is fibrous. Fluffers on here is also selling bags of fresh hawthorn (thread in fundraising section) and that might help with fibre. Have you tried readigrass at all? Just trying to think of different things to suggest.

As with all new foods, introduce gradually.

Just wanted to add that when you clean her underneath area, will that not wash the Flyguard off that area too? I dont know how often it needs to be/can be reapplied?

Hello, thank you for the advice.

I will definately get some of the Protexin Profibre Pellets, see if that makes any difference, it would mean at least I could reduce the excel because I know she gets too much at the moment. I have never tried plantain, I am a little scared of things I know nothing about. :roll: So do I just buy it fresh and give it to her like that? I will get some hawthorn also, I think I have seen some growing locally quite high up so will see if I can forage that, if not I'll ask Fluffers if she can sell me some.

I have a whole bag of readigrass but that seemed to make her worse.

Luckily I don't have to wash her, she actually does it herself. I only notice she is dirty on weekends when I am at home during the day, it happens so long after breakfast and so long after dinner so I am normally at work or asleep, I just see the evidence at the bottom of the cage :? I am guessing it is excess caecs-I tell her it's not very lady-like but she takes no notice :)
 
Readigrass can be quite rich if they aren't used to it but is good for weight maintenance, and being dried grass I think it should be as good as normal grass in terms of fibre etc.

You can buy dried plantain in Pets at Home or online, but you may have some growing in your garden, but obviously dont feed if you aren't sure. You can buy seeds from the Hay Experts, and its really easy to grow in seed trays, sprinkled on the surface of some soil/compost. Then you can just snip a little bit off and see if it makes a difference.

You could try switching pellets for a higher fibre pellet - Excel has been known to cause excess cecals. There is a comparison chart near the bottom of this page: http://www.rabbitrehome.org.uk/care/rabbitfood.asp. If you are going to change pellets, do it very gradually, over a 3/4 week period so that there arent any tummy upsets.
 
Readigrass can be quite rich if they aren't used to it but is good for weight maintenance, and being dried grass I think it should be as good as normal grass in terms of fibre etc.

You can buy dried plantain in Pets at Home or online, but you may have some growing in your garden, but obviously dont feed if you aren't sure. You can buy seeds from the Hay Experts, and its really easy to grow in seed trays, sprinkled on the surface of some soil/compost. Then you can just snip a little bit off and see if it makes a difference.

You could try switching pellets for a higher fibre pellet - Excel has been known to cause excess cecals. There is a comparison chart near the bottom of this page: http://www.rabbitrehome.org.uk/care/rabbitfood.asp. If you are going to change pellets, do it very gradually, over a 3/4 week period so that there arent any tummy upsets.

Thank you so much for all your advice.

I think I will start the new diets process in a couple of weeks. I am moving flat then and I am going to start a routine where I feed the bunnies seperately. At the moment I have to feed them together because if they are seperate Poppy is just concerned with why she's not with Peter and doesn't eat, (and the diet I am giving her he really doesn't need and shouldn't have). With everything being new though I'm hoping she won't be bothered and it will just become routine. i will start stocking supplies now :D
 
Good luck with the move, hope its not too stressful for you or them. A change of environment can be stressful for buns, so you might want to wait a little bit til they are settled before changing their diet, but up to you, as you know them best! :)

I know what you mean when trying to feed them separately, it can be tricky.
 
Good luck with the move, hope its not too stressful for you or them. A change of environment can be stressful for buns, so you might want to wait a little bit til they are settled before changing their diet, but up to you, as you know them best! :)

I know what you mean when trying to feed them separately, it can be tricky.

Thank you, they have moved a couple of times before and been fine so fingers croosed they will be ok again-they will have there own room so I'm hoping they won't be complaining :)

Feeding seperately is hard, I think the main reason she won't eat is that she's concerend he's getting something she isn't!! :roll:
 
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