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hi im new

md321

Warren Scout
Hi im new to this forum and im getting a bunny tomorrow. I know the basics of looking after a rabbit but is there any other information i need to know?

Thanks:)
 
Where are you getting it from? What food are you going to be using? Must have hay. What size hutch have you got or is she/he free ranging?
 
Hiya, welcome to RU! What sort of rabbit are you getting, and where from? There's so much info on bunny care it's ghard to condense it at all, but I'll post my basic info sheet - that might help. Be sure to post piccies of your new munchkin!


Thinking of getting rabbits?

Anyone planning on getting a furry bundle or two, perhaps for their little one’s Easter present? Please read on…

They’re a family commitment

Rabbits make absolutely delightful pets, but there are many things to consider before taking the plunge and committing to them. First of all, despite popular belief, they are definitely not "children’s" pets. That’s not to say children can’t enjoy them and learn a lot from them, but they need to be the primary responsibility of the adult who buys them. It must also be appreciated that this responsibility applies for the rabbits' whole lives, which could be 8 years or more.

Expense

You will need to be financially stable, as they’re expensive critters to keep! A good quality setup (it will be far more cost effective to pay for a hutch that will last, rather than keep replacing it) will cost around £150 - £200 for a hutch or shed, and a further £50 - £150 for an attached run. Litter trays, toys, a hutch cover, and other basic necessities will come to between £20 and £50. Overall, it will cost around £350 to set up the rabbits’ living area. ‘Running costs’ are a big factor in deciding whether buns are the right pet for your family. A pair of healthy rabbits will cost a good £400 a year.

A companion

The most important thing a rabbit needs to keep it happy is another rabbit! In the wild, rabbits naturally live in large groups, so it's really only fair to keep them in pairs or groups. I strongly recommend adopting a pair that have already been neutered, vaccinated and bonded (most rescues do this before rehoming) as this will work out cheaper and far less stressful in the long run. Guinea pigs do not make appropriate companions, and in fact keeping the two species together can lead to horrific injuries and a great deal of misery.

Space to play

Buns also need plenty of space as they're incredibly active. The hutch will need to be at least 6ft long, 2ft high and 2ft wide and ideally two or two storeys high. A shed makes an ideal rabbit playground, as it's suitable for use in all weathers and is predator-proof. You can also add different levels to a shed (a storage chest, chair and low, wide shelves for example) to add space and interest to their environment.

The hutch and/or shed will need a large run attached, so your rabbits can have fun and exercise outside even without supervision. This will need to be predator-proof, including having a secure lid and strong mesh buried beneath the grass to prevent anything digging in, or them digging out. Alternatively, the run can be placed on a patio which cannot be dug up


Enrichment

Buns need some good quality toys - tunnels and boxes for hiding in are ideal, and smaller toys they can pick up and throw are important too. Wooden and other natural toys are preferable to plastic as they're less likely to cause harm when chewed, although it's best to buy specially made bunny toys, or build your own, to ensure they're made from rabbit-safe materials. A shallow box filled with sand, soil or compost is a nice addition, as this allows them to dig and roll as they would in the wild.

Neutering

It is vitally important that, if you have bought unneutered rabbits from a breeder or pet shop, their sex be checked again by an experienced vet. Neutering should take place at around 4 months for a male and 6 months for a female. An unspayed female will almost certainly develop uterine cancer, while unneutered bucks have an unpleasant odour. ‘Entire’ rabbits are also likely to spray, mount, fight each other and become aggressive towards humans. A male/female pair will also mate, which will of course produce unwanted and often unhealthy offspring. Rabbits of opposite gender will need to be kept separate from the age of 10 weeks, and until 6 weeks after they’ve been neutered. Same sex pairs will also need to be separated at the first sign of aggression towards each other. They can be rebonded 6 weeks post-op too, on neutral ground. Bonding is a very delicate process which must be researched well before being attempted. Some rescue centres will bond your rabbits for you, for a small donation.

Other healthcare requirements

Rabbits need vaccinating to keep them healthy, and preferably worming and protecting against fly-strike as well. Their claws will also need clipping, and their teeth checking (unfortunately rabbits are prone to dental problems) every few weeks. A knowledgeable rabbit vet is a must, so ask them plenty of questions before signing up with a practice! Unfortunately, buns are very good at hiding illness, so you'll need to keep a close eye on them and give them a thorough check every day to ensure all is well. If a rabbit stops eating, drinking, peeing or pooing it's seriously ill and will need emergency vet treatment. The phrase, "I'll see how they are in the morning" does not apply to rabbits - they could die in this time. It's actually a good idea to get a 'rabbit first aid kit' together, just in case. A small feeding syringe and a packet or two of nutritionally complete liquid feed for sick or convalescent small animals are must-haves.

To prevent illness, you'll need to keep the hutch scrupulously clean. It's best to 'skip out' any dirty bedding and droppings at least twice a day, then scrub the hutch out with rabbit-safe disinfectant once a week to kill any 'nasties'. Rabbits produce a lot of waste so it's best to litter-train them. Do a search for 'litter training' on a rabbit forum for hints and tips.

Diet

A limitless supply of fresh hay is essential. Hay should make up around 80-90% of a rabbit's diet, as it's vitally important in keeping their teeth and gut healthy. Pet shop hay doesn't tend to be very good quality, so check out www.thehayexperts.co.uk (or similar websites) for a decent selection. Pellets aren't vital, but most rabbit owners feed them (about an eggcupful a day for a medium-sized rabbit) to help cover dietary requirements. Pellets are preferable to muesli-style feed, as buns tend to pick out their favourite bits and leave the rest. It's best to scatter these in the hutch to provide enrichment by encouraging natural 'foraging' behaviour. It goes without saying that they need constant access to clean, fresh drinking water. In my experience buns actually prefer a bowl, but a drinking bottle will do. This needs changing at least once a day - after all, we wouldn't like to drink stale water! Raw vegetables are important too, but please research how safe they are before feeding them to your rabbits.

Although rabbit ownership can be physically and emotionally demanding, and expensive, if you enter into it responsibly and with your eyes open it can also bring you years of companionship and fun. For a full list of rescues with available buns, and rabbits up for adoption on a private basis, visit: http://www.rabbitrehome.org.uk/centres.asp
 
How many buns are you getting? the majority of rabbits are MUCH happier in pairs.
Spaying/neutering your bun when it is at the correct age is VERY important, it will prevent pregnancy, behavioural problems and also cancer which is a very high risk in females.
What kind of accomodation, bedding and food do you have? :wave:
 
Dutch rabbits can be very mischievous! So he will keep you on your toes! So be sure to spend lots of time with him.

Bearing this in mind, if you're not getting him from a rescue where he has already been neutered, then I would recommend that you try to get him neutered as soon as he is old enough.

This can help to combat behavioural issues, as well as prevent possible future health problems.

Arrange a vets trip fairly soon too, this enables you to build up a good relationship with your vets, and make sure your bun is healthy from the off. They can also give you advice on vaccinations, neutering and things like nail clipping.

Stick with us here too, as there is an immense amount of information on this site!
 
I still need to get straw and I have already got wood shavings and timothy feeding hay. I'm getting the rabbit from pets at home. Do i need to have straw and hay for his bed? I'm also thinking about putting news paper underneath his bed so if its got poo on it etc i can roll it up and put it in the bin.....is that a good idea?
 
I still need to get straw and I have already got wood shavings and timothy feeding hay. I'm getting the rabbit from pets at home. Do i need to have straw and hay for his bed? I'm also thinking about putting news paper underneath his bed so if its got poo on it etc i can roll it up and put it in the bin.....is that a good idea?

Rabbits are very intelligent animals, and can be litter trained. They will naturally use one place in their home to go to the toilet, so to keep it cleaner, you could put a litter tray in for him to use. You can then use wooden cat litter pellets (no other type of cat litter) in the tray, as these are very absorbent. I would put hay in this tray too as they tend to like to munch and poop at the same time!
 
Hope your bunny settles in well with you. :) I have newspaper underneath hay and straw for my bunny's bed - he uses it as a loo, not a bed. He prefers to sleep on various fleece mats he has about the hutch. :wave:
 
I would personally avoid wood shavings, they can cause respiratory and eye problems for bunnies. If thats for his litter tray, could I suggest you try something like Megazorb or Carefresh? Carefresh you can get in P@H, but I find Megazorb better, you can get that delivered online and it comes in a big sack so lasts for ages and is good value. I get it from the Hay Experts. It absorbs smells better than wood shavings.

Get the biggest hutch and run you can afford - at least 6'x2'x2' with a secure run attached measuring 8' x4', this is the minimum that the RWAF recommends. http://www.rabbitwelfare.co.uk/ahutchisnotenough.htm

I would advise getting him neutered by your vet once he is old enough, and then you could approach a rescue about bonding him with a friend :) as rabbits need company of their own kind, but bonding yourself can be very tricky.

Also remember vaccinations - myxi 6-12 monthly and VHD once a year.

Good luck with your bun. :wave:

RU is great for advice about health and behaviour should you need it :)
 
Why not look into adopting a bun from a rescue instead of buying from a pet shop? :wave: Its a wonderful thing to do as there are so many rabbits without homes :( Also if you go to a rescue the bun will already be spayed/neutered and vaccinated so you wont have to worry about that, and you may even beable to adopt a bonded pair to save you the stress of bonding :D
 
Thanks for all your help, ill go to pets at home tomorrow and get the hay and decide what rabbit im getting, i think i'll still go for the dutch rabbit
 
Sounds like you've made up your mind, but just wondered if you would consider a rescue bunny, there are Dutchies in rescues, and there are also babies in rescues. You will almost definitely be able to find one in a bonded pair, who are already vaccinated and neutered too, so saves you money in the long run and the stress of bonding with another bun. Plus you get that nice feeling of giving a home to unwanted buns :(

Anyway your decision and good luck with it all
 
im getting 1 male rabbit and it's a dutch variety.

if you want a male rabbit, i would ask for them to double check :) as i wanted a female, had to take her to the vets this week, with sneezing and discharge only had her 12 weeks from p@h turns out my little rosie is a male. :oops:

good luck with your new bunny :D
 
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