Thinking of getting rabbits?
Anyone planning on getting a furry bundle or two, perhaps for their little one’s Easter present? Please read on…
A family commitment
Rabbits make absolutely delightful pets, but there are many things to consider before taking the plunge and having them. First of all, despite popular belief, they are definitely not "children’s" pets. That’s not to say children can’t enjoy them and learn a lot from them, but they need to be the primary responsibility of the adult who buys them. It must also be appreciated that this responsibility applies for the rabbits' whole life, which could be 8 years or more.
Expense
You will need to be financially stable, as they’re expensive critters to keep! A good quality setup (it will be far more cost effective to pay for a hutch that will last, rather than keep replacing it) will cost around £150 - £200 for a hutch or shed, and a further £50 - £150 for an attached run. Littertrays, toys, a hutch cover, and other basic necessities will come to between £20 - £50. Overall, it will cost around £350 to set up the rabbits’ living area. ‘Running costs’ are a big factor in deciding whether buns are the right pet for your family. A pair of healthy rabbits will cost, on average, between £500 - £800 a year to keep. This figure doesn't include any unexpected vets fees.
A companion
The most important thing a rabbit needs to keep it happy is another rabbit! In the wild, rabbits naturally live in large groups, so it's really only fair to keep them in pairs or groups. I strongly recommend adopting a pair that have already been neutered, vaccinated and bonded (most rescues do this before rehoming anyway!) as this will work out cheaper and far less stressful in the long run. Guinea pigs do not make appropriate companions, and in fact keeping the 2 species together can lead to horrific injuries and much misery.
Space to play
Buns also need plenty of space as they're incredibly active. The hutch will need to be at least 6ft long, 2ft high and 2ft wide and ideally 2 or 3 stories high. A shed makes an ideal rabbit playground, as it's suitable for use in all weathers and is predator-proof. You can also add different levels to a shed (a storage chest, chair and low, wide shelves for example) to add space and interest to their environment.
The hutch and/or shed will need a large run attached, so your rabbits can have fun and exercise outside even without supervision. This will need to be predator-proof, including having a secure lid and strong mesh buried beneath the grass to prevent anything digging in, or them digging out. Alternatively, the run can be placed on patio which cannot be dug up. A shallow box filled with sand, soil or compost is a nice addition, as this allows them to dig as they would in the wild.
Enrichment
Buns need some good quality toys - tunnels and boxes for hiding in are ideal, and smaller toys they can pick up and throw are important too. Wooden and other natural toys are preferable to plastic as they're less likely to cause harm when chewed, although it's best to buy specially made bunny toys, or build your own, to ensure they're made from rabbit-safe materials.
Neutering
It is vitally important that, if you have bought unneutered rabbits from a breeder or petshop, they be re-sexed by an experienced vet. Neutering should take place at around 4 months for a male, and 6 months for a female. An unspayed female will almost certainly develop uterine cancer, while unneutered bucks have an unpleasant odour. ‘Entire’ rabbits are also likely to spray, mount, fight each other and become aggressive towards humans. A male/female pair will also mate, which will of course produce unwanted and often unhealthy offspring. Rabbits of opposite gender will need to be kept separate from the age of 10 weeks, and until 6 weeks after they’ve been neutered. Same sex pairs will also need to be separated at the first sign of aggression towards each other. They can be rebonded 6 weeks post-op too, on neutral ground. Bonding is a very delicate process which must be researched well before being attempted. Some rescue centres will bond your rabbits for you, for a small donation.
Other healthcare requirements
Rabbits need vaccinating to keep them healthy, and preferably worming and protecting against fly-strike as well. Their claws will also need clipping every few weeks. A knowledgeable rabbit vet is a must, so feel free to ask them questions before signing up with a practice! Unfortunately, buns are very good at hiding illness, so you'll need to keep a close eye on them and give them a thorough check every day to ensure all is well. If a rabbit stops eating, drinking, peeing or pooing it's seriously ill and will need emergency vet treatment. The phrase, "I'll see how they are in the morning" does not apply to rabbits - they could die in this time. It's actually a good idea to get a 'rabbit first aid kit' together, just in case. A small feeding syringe and a packet or 2 of 'recovery diet' or 'critical care' are must-haves.
To prevent illness, you'll need to keep the hutch scrupulously clean. It's best to 'skip out' any dirty bedding and droppings at least twice a day, then scrub the hutch out with rabbit-safe disinfectant once a week to kill any 'nasties'. Buns pee and poo a lot (it's how their bodies work), so it's best to litter-train them. Do a search for 'litter training' on a rabbit forum for hints and tips.
Diet
A limitless supply of fresh hay is essential. Hay should make up around 80-90% of a rabbit's diet, as it's vitally important in keeping their teeth and gut healthy. Pet shop hay doesn't tend to be very good quality, so check out
www.thehayexperts.co.uk (or similar websites) for a decent selection. Pellets aren't vital, but most rabbit owners feed them (about an eggcupful a day for a medium-sized rabbit) to help cover dietary requirements. Pellets are preferable to mixed feed, as buns tend to pick out their favourite bits and leave the rest. It's best to scatter these in the hutch to provide enrichment by encouraging natural 'foraging' behaviour. It goes without saying that they need constant access to clean, fresh drinking water. In my experience buns actually prefer a bowl, but a drinking bottle will do. This needs changing at least once a day - after all, we wouldn't like to drink stale water! Veg is important too, so do a Google search for different kinds they're allowed.
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Always think before you buy - the rabbit's life depends on your care.
If you don't think that you can make the necessary commitment for your rabbits' whole life - then don't buy them.
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