48 hour rabbit bonding?

Hey. I'm new to this forum so i'm not sure if this is where i'm meant to be posting this...

Anyways, I have been told that rather than bonding rabbits in small meetings, it is more succesful to just put them together in a neutral territory for 48 hours...what is this method and how does it work? Thanks. (new rabbit owner)

People do it both ways. Another way is to have them near each other for a few weeks but separated by mesh so they can see and smell each other but can't get to each other. And then bond them.

I think it depends on the rabbits and what you think would suit them. I bonded my two in a neutral space for 48 hours. I used a 3 ft dog crate. :wave:

Welcome to the forum.

Thanks

I currently have them in cages next to eachother, but they aren't really paying much attention to eachother ....i did let them out together in a neutral territory twice, the first time the 6 month old neutered male (quite large) rabbit bit the little one baby unspeyed female (who is around 1/4 of his size!) The second time they kind of ran around in a circle. The little one put her head down next to the big one, then they kind of squabbled around in a circle for a second :S

I really would like them to be bonded sooner rather than later so that they can be moved outside together this spring...Do you think I should just put them in like a large crate or something? Though I am scared that if they do fight the little girl will get hurt, she is so small, but my parents aren't too keen on them being in the house, and so I want them to be bonded so that I can put them outside together in a while so they can keep each other company. Any advice? Thanks

Personally I think you should wait until the little girl is spayed. The reason is it will calm her down and it should be much easier to bond then.

If they're just pulling fur, this is normal and should settle down when they sort out who's in charge, but if they fight properly or lock onto each other you should separate them.

Hopefully someone else will come along soon with some more advice.

I stand by what I said here. Wait until she has grown (and you know she is healthy and her immune system is well developed), and has been spayed and has recovered and then bond.

It would be unfair on her to bond her now.

I always start them off in a carrier and take them around with me as I do other things. After a few hours, as long as they have calmed down and aren't trying to kill eachother (if they keep fighting in a carrier try a diferent pairing) move them to a bigger space. My bonding cages are 8ft by 2ft so they can get far enough away form eachother to take a break and think things through. I put a water bottle each end and a pile of hay each end. Feed and veg goes in the middle at the usual time. Often they will rush over and eat next to eachother despite sitting opposite ends up until then.

Certain behaviours are fine. Mounting is fine, chasing is fine, rolling in a ball is NOT fine. If they are going to really fight you can not leave them together. This is why you need to let your rabbit choose thier partner, don't do it for them. You need to be able to observe them for as long as possible and preferably hear them overnight. I am bonding a trio at the moment. If they get really wild I will hear them through the wall and go and separate them. I used to have a stack of dog crates in my bedroom for bonding overnight but my mother won't let me have one now I live in her house.

If there is a big size difference I would wait until she is a bit older and can be spayed. (edit: just read on the other thread that she's only 7 weeks or so - in which case there's no way I'd do it now; youngsters are at extremely high risk of developing coccidiosis - which can kill - when they are exposed to stress and being taken from mum and littermates, new home and big bunny wanting to eat you will be too much for the little mite).

The "48 hour" technique isn't really 48 hours, it's more that you need to be able to devote 48 hours to pretty constant watching (including sleeping next to them), and be available for several days afterwards to keep a very close eye. In many ways it's absolutely no different to bonding in a series of short introductions - except that instead of being separated and having to go back to the beginning every time you put them together, they work it out all in one go. Personally, whilt it will be stressful to the buns, I think it is far less stressful overall because it is over and done with more quickly and they do (usually!) settle down quite rapidly over the course of the first day and night even if it takes several more days before they actually bond.

You say that when you put them together the second time they 'circled'. I would not let bunnies circle each other while bonding, it is almost inevitably going to end in a fight and possible injury, so if you see the signs that they are going to circle each other, gently pull/hold them apart for 10 seconds and then let them go again.

I wouldn't use a crate to start with as you might not be able to access it quickly enough if they do fight - you can use one after a couple of days when things have settled a bit, but I would just use those panels that are used to make a pen (or block off an area about 4ft * 2ft with something, but keep the top open). Another thing to consider might be to see if there is a rescue near you who would bond them for you in return for a donation, or there might be people here who live nearby and could give you a hand to at least get it started

Have a look around in the 'behaviour and bonding' section in the 'rabbit care discussion' part of the forum - you should find plenty of good advice there

So the doe is only 7 weeks.....you should only try to bond them if the buck is totally placid and has been neutered for ages. If she is much smaller than him he could hurt her mounting. Some adults will accept a baby easily. But only some. I have used foster mums or dads for babies of that age, but only when I know the adult is safe.