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Top Tips xx-U/d Might Wanna take a peep, my hands are killing! x

Rabbits Are The 3rd Most Poplure Pets In The UK:) && Since We Are on a rabbit forum i want to tell you (alittle:lol:) about rabbits, Like Any other pet, rabbits have 5 most important things you have to make sure of that:
They Have A Sutibal Home (Hutch..Ect..)
In the wild, rabbits have a home territory the size of 30 tennis courts! So, to get enough exercise, pet rabbits should have as much space as possible. Sadly, many hutches sold for rabbits are too small for them.
Rabbits need a large weatherproof home, raised off the ground, out of direct sunlight and strong winds. It needs to be moved indoors in very cold weather. The hutch should be tall enough for rabbits to stand up on their back legs without their ears touching the top, and long enough to allow at least three hops. A suggested minimum size for most rabbits is 6ft x 2ft x 2ft high.
Rabbits also need a large run on a grassy area, so that they get enough exercise. This must be safe from predators and offer some shade. They need an indoor run in cold weather. A run should be tall enough to allow the rabbits to stretch up to full height and they should be able to run, rather than just hop. A suggested minimum size of run for most rabbits is 8ft x 4ft x 2ft high.
A hutch should be lined with newspaper or clean woodshavings, with soft hay or straw on top. The sleeping area should contain clean, dry hay as bedding.
The hutch should be cleaned at least once a day, with all the bedding changed weekly. From time-to-time the hutch should be completely stripped out and scrubbed, with the rabbit only being allowed back into the hutch when it is completely dry.

Need A Perfect Diet
Many of the problems that vets see with rabbits are caused by their diet. It’s extremely important that you give them the right food. Lots of people have become used to feeding rabbits a bowl of ‘rabbit mix’, which resembles muesli. But these muesli-type mixes can cause real health problems, especially with the teeth.
How to feed rabbits
In the wild, rabbits eat virtually nothing but grass. So most of a pet rabbit’s diet should be hay.
Rabbits should be given at least their body size in hay each day (so if you put the daily
amount of hay next to the rabbit, it should be at least as big as the rabbit!)
They should be fed a handful of fresh vegetables, morning and evening
They should be fed one tablespoon of commercial rabbit pellets once daily (or twice daily if they weigh over 3.5kg).
Aim to feed a few different greens/vegetables each day. The list below shows some greens that are safe to feed, and some that aren’t.
Safe
,Broccoli,Cabbage ,Carrots,Cauliflower ,Parsnip,Peppers ,Radishtops ,Rocket ,Spinach
Unsafe
,Foxglove,Lily of the valley ,Laburnum ,Poppies ,Privet Ragwort ,Rhubarb
leaves
Fruit
You should only give fruit occasionally and in small quantities because it is high in sugar. Apples, grapes, pears and strawberries (including the strawberry leaves) are suitable in small amounts.
Changing a rabbit’s diet suddenly can upset their digestive system, so always introduce new foods gradually.
Rabbits do eat their own droppings so that they can get the full goodness out of their high-fibre food, so don't be concerned if you see this.
Water
Fresh water must always be available and should be supplied from a suitable water bottle with a metal spout.

Normal Behaviour
Exercise and toys

Rabbits need lots of exercise. They can get this if they have a large hutch and run (see A suitable environment). As well as lots of space, they also need things to do, so they don’t get bored. Toys for rabbits are available from pet stores, and include things like large tubes and platforms to climb on. Cardboard boxes and safe, untreated logs are also good for rabbits to explore. By offering different toys in different weeks you can make sure your rabbits stay stimulated. When a particular toy isn’t being used, this also gives you a good opportunity to clean it.
Digging
Rabbits love to dig, and a great way of letting them do this is to give them a planter filled with potting compost. Because they like burrowing so much you should sink their enclosure in to the ground so that they can’t burrow out!
Handling
Rabbits should be handled gently from a young age to make them more confident when handled as adults. Always be calm and gentle when handling them. On the whole they are fairly docile, but if handled incorrectly they can struggle quite vigorously, which can result in serious injuries to their spinal cords. Never lift a rabbit by the ears.
Lift your rabbit by putting one arm underneath the bottom and the other arm across the back of the head, holding them close to your chest. Make sure the rabbit can’t fall during handling, as even a small fall can damage their bones.
If they struggle when you handle them, carefully place the rabbit on a firm surface, hind-feet first, or back into their hutch.
Training
Rabbits can be trained to use a litter tray. Put a litter tray where you want them to toilet and place some of their droppings in it. Use a paper-based litter and offer a food reward, such as a small piece of carrot, each time your rabbit jumps into the tray and uses it.

Need Company-From There Own Kind
Rabbits are very social animals and need the company of other rabbits. The best combination is usually a neutered male with a neutered female. Un-neutered males and females shouldn’t be kept together, as they will breed and it can be difficult to find homes for the young.
Female rabbits reach sexual maturity between 4 and 5 months of age, male rabbits reach sexual sexual maturity between 5 and 8 months of age, and smaller breeds may reach maturity earlier than the larger breeds.
Rabbits and guinea pigs shouldn't be kept together as bullying can occur and they both need company from their own kind.
 
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continied...

Need to be protected from pain, uncomftbalness---CARE!!
Vaccination
Rabbits can be vaccinated against myxomatosis and viral haemorrhagic disease. These viral diseases are almost always fatal, but can be prevented through vaccination. Every year vets see cases of myxomatosis in unvaccinated rabbits. Your vet will advise you the right time to vaccinate.
Neutering
Female rabbits
Spaying is important for female rabbits because it reduces the risk of cancer of the uterus. It also allows them to live with another rabbit (e.g. a neutered male) without having unwanted litters. This is important because rabbits need company.
Spaying can help to reduce aggression, but you should get advice from your vet about any problems you have with your rabbit’s behaviour.
Did you know…? Up to 80% of rabbits that haven’t been spayed can develop cancer of the uterus.
When?
The operation is often done at around six months of age but you should ask your vet about the best time for
your rabbit. A rabbit doesn’t need to have a litter before she’s spayed.
Male rabbits
Castration allows male rabbits to live with another rabbit without having unwanted litters. The best combination is a neutered male with a neutered female. Castration can also reduce problem behaviour linked to hormones, such as urine spraying and aggression. If your rabbit is behaving like this, you should get advice from your vet.
When?
The operation is often done at around three-to-four months of age – ask your vet when the best time for your rabbit is.
Groming
Rabbits should be groomed from an early age so that they become used to it. Long-haired breeds will need to be groomed daily, whereas short-haired breeds will usually need grooming just once a week.
Most rabbits will groom themselves, but regular brushing keeps their coats healthy and prevents fur balls.
Using a stiff-bristled brush, gently brush the coat with gentle strokes in the same direction that the fur grows.
HealTh
You should check your rabbits each day for any signs of illness, such as a change in appetite or water intake, weight loss, diarrhoea, skin problems, scratching or any change in behaviour. If your rabbits develop any of these signs you should always contact your vet.
Fly strike
Check under the tail daily in the summer, as rabbits are prone to maggot infestations (‘fly strike’) in warmer weather. This is a very unpleasant condition caused by flies laying their eggs on dirty fur. These hatch into maggots which eat into the rabbit’s flesh. Vets see cases of fly strike every year. Most at risk are rabbits that get dirty around their back end, so you should make sure the hutch and living environment are cleaned out regularly. If a rabbit isn’t grooming their fur properly and is allowing it to get dirty, this can be a sign of a health problem, so you should visit your vet.
Teeth
Rabbit teeth grow continuously throughout their life. This is why they need to eat lots of hay to keep the teeth worn down (see A suitable diet, above). Overgrown teeth can be painful, cause drooling and a poor appetite.
Respiratory problems
Lung and breathing problems are some of the most common seen in rabbits. Signs include a runny nose and runny eyes. A mild respiratory infection can lead to serious pneumonia if a rabbit is stressed. Causes of stress in rabbits can include a poor living environment, being persistently scared by other pets, or another illness.
Skin
Crusting and scaling of the skin, together with fur loss, can be caused by skin mites or ringworm. Both of these conditions can be passed to people. Rabbits can also develop abscesses, which can be caused by a skin wound or problems with the teeth.
Digestive disturbances
Rabbits have very sensitive digestive systems, so remember - any dietary changes must be made very gradually. Your vet will be able to advise you about this.
Diarrhoea can be caused by a change in diet, or stress. You should take your rabbit to the vet if it has diarrhoea, especially if it is a young rabbit with jelly-like faeces. This can be due to a serious condition called ‘mucoid enteropathy’.
There are your top tips:)
 
Do you have any tips for bonding or know a thread that does?

I got my first rabbit 2 years ago and its about time I gave him a friend. So going to try get him a neutered female very soon. So i'm more thinking about getting my home ready to handle the bonding bunnies.

I'll have 2 large cages to keep them apart but any tips on how long they should be let out together at a time and cleaning home of traces of existing rabbit so they have a fresh start, I've heard vinegar is good.

Cheers
 
Bonding x

Bonding Tips and Tricks
Like any relationship, a new pairing of rabbits can be slow to develop or be love at first sight. Almost all rabbits can work out their differences and enjoy the companionship of another rabbit. Still, the process of bonding two rabbits will take time, patience, commitment and a little work on your part.
I Consider:
• Relaxing! Take a deep breath and relax. If you are a nervous wreck, the rabbits will be, too.

• Males & females you seem to have the best luck in pairing neutered males with spayed females. Usually the males appear to be dominant at first with their excessive mounting. The female will put up with this for a short while, but will usually assert her dominance by mounting the male or nipping him to show she is the one in charge. At this point, the male usually backs down and they start on the road to friendship. Same-sex pairing is not out of the question, but requires at least one submissive rabbit in the group and a little more patience on your part.

• Spaying & neutering It is considerably easier if BOTH rabbits in the pairing have been fixed. In fact, you may not be successful with the match if they are not. Once fixed, you are working with temperaments and personalities, not hormones and uncontrolled desires! If the rabbits are newly altered, (6 months or less) they may still be quite amorous towards each other. This behavior should dissipate the longer they are fixed.

NOTE: If your rabbit has just been spayed or neutered, it is highly recommended that you wait at least two weeks (a month is better) before introducing him or her to another rabbit. This will prevent the male from possibly impregnating an unspayed female (or continuing to exhibit hormonal behavior), and a newly spayed female from fighting off the male due to being uncomfortable from her recent surgery.

• Time Although the average length of time until most rabbits are pretty well bonded is about one week, i have seen rabbits take as little as one afternoon or as long as many months to become friends. Neutral territory is imperative. YOU MUST put the rabbits (and keep the rabbits) in a small, neutral area for about one week. Beginning the bonding in a small, neutral territory is vital to this relationship working out. A kitchen, bathroom, or portable exercise pen all work well. DO NOT put them in a cage together until they have been getting along perfectly for several days. If a serious fight breaks out in a cage, it is generally difficult to separate them.

• Fighting, nipping & mounting Although these behaviors may look similar to you, they are all very different and it is important to recognize the different ways rabbits speak. Fighting is usually an instantly, purposely vicious attack. Rabbits sometimes attack the other rabbit's face, underside or genital area. DO NOT separate the rabbits unless they are truly fighting. Every time you separate the rabbits, you will have to re-introduce them, making this process take even longer.

Nipping at each other in a playful manner is not usually serious and is done for several reasons. Remember, rabbits sometimes communicate by nipping and this could be done to say "Hey, pay attention to me" or "Who are you?" and "Get out of my litterbox!" or "Hey There!" This too should dissipate as they learn how to approach and communicate with their new partner.
Both sexes may mount each other. Although mounting can escalate into circling, which could develop into a little fight, mounting usually dissipates after the first week and is only for the sake of asserting dominance. It is important to allow the rabbits this very important part of their courtship. Be watchful of backwards mounting, though. We have had a couple of serious nips in one's most vital areas! If your rabbits are mounting each other a lot, instigating fights, stop them, DO NOT SEPARATE them; place them side by side. Pet them together and talk to them quietly. Do not let too much chasing ensue.
Check your rabbits for injuries each day even if they appear to be getting along well.
If They Groom Eachother Then This Is GRATE!
 
Thanks again Ash very helpful.

I'm a it afraid of nipping cause my fella had his front 2 teeth taken out so it'll be an unfair contest lol
 
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