8wk old bunny-U/D-New bunny notes-comments please

A friend has just got an 8 week old bunny and are aware of the risks of myxi. Can she have her jab yet? Also the VHD a couple of weeks after?

I have never had a bunny as young as 8 weeks so any other hints on looking after young bunnies would be appreciated as they want me to go and show them how to handle it later or tomorrow.

Thanks

bunny babe said:

A friend has just got an 8 week old bunny and are aware of the risks of myxi. Can she have her jab yet? Also the VHD a couple of weeks after?

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Yes

Thanks. Also just putting some notes together on feed etc for them.

bunny babe said:

Thanks. Also just putting some notes together on feed etc for them.

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Thats really good of you

My notes

OK - I have tried to summarise how to look after a bunny for a beginner. Any comments/additions would be welcome. I have copied the first aid bit from here and have already told them about this site.

Food

Hay
Should be 80-90% of diet – this should be left for them to eat freely at all times.

Hay is important in their diet as this will help to keep their teeth worn down. Teeth can cause lots of problems if not checked regularly.

Pellets
Only a few in the morning and evening. Should not be the “mix” type as this can encourage “selective feeding”
Use something like – Exel, Science Selective, Oxbow Bunny Basics, Allen & Page

Veg/Fruit
You can start to introduce this SLOWLY, however you need to be careful on the type of veg as some are high in calcium and should not be fed as often (only as treats)

Spring cabbage
Carrots – treat only as they are high in sugar and bunny will put weight on
Kale – treat as high in calcium – may make wee look red too.
Spinach – treat as high in calcium – may make wee look red too.
Herbs – parsley (flat and curly)
Apples, banana can be given as treat as high in sugar.
Cauliflower – this can cause bloat.

Do NOT feed anything from the onion family e.g. chives as these can be poisonous to a bunny.

Housing

Rabbit should be able to “periscope” i.e. sit on back legs so the housing needs to be big enough to accommodate this.
Should have enough room to run round.
Welded mesh should be used as it is stronger than chicken wire which a bunny could chew through and a fox could easily get in.
Consider the floor of the run, if you are not around then the base should be solid so the bunny can not dig out and fox etc can not dig under.
Consider putting mosquito netting over mesh to prevent flies entering.

Health

Myxomatosis
Need to be vaccinated every 6 months.

VHD
Need to be vaccinated every 12 months.

Not eating
If your bunny stops eating this is an emergency. Try to tempt it to eat and take lots of fluids but if after an hour or if things worsen and it is still not eating then take to the vet.
Pure pineapple juice may help to shift any blockage, e.g. hairball.
Infacol may help to disperse gas.

This combination, together with massaging the abdomen, can nip gastric problems in the bud. If it turns out to be more serious, conditions worsen or no improvement is seen after an hour, then consult a vet immediately.

Not pooing
If your bunny stops pooing this is an emergency. Get your bunny to run round and give some gentle tummy rubs, if still no poo take it to the vet.

Flystrike
You can treat your rabbit with Rearguard which will prevent any fly eggs from hatching.
The mosquito netting will prevent flies getting into run (before closing check no flies are trapped in the run)
You should check your buns at least once a day and twice a day in summer months.
If you do find anything on your bunny, take to vet for checkup.


Other signs to look for

Hunched up – bunny can be in pain, so take to the vet.
Grinding teeth – bunny can be in pain, so take to the vet.
Pushing tummy on ground – bunny has tummy problems, so take to vet.
Drinking excessive water – bunny could have infection, so take to vet.

Rabbits are very good at hiding pain as it is their natural defense.
If you “suspect” that your rabbit is not “itself” this will normally mean that it is ill so it is best to get it checked out by a vet asap as they can go downhill VERY fast.

If your rabbit is showing signs of being unwell, make sure you keep it warm and get to vet asap.


Emergency First Aid Kit

AviPro
Water soluable pro-biotic for Rabbits – Like Bio-Lapis but my buns like it better

Rubber Gloves
Essential if the bun has an open wound. Also great for cleaning bums!

Syringes
I like to have a lot on hand so that I am not tempted to re-use. Great for giving meds. Also can be used to syringe emergency foods/fluids.

Puppy Training Pads
I use in hutches over night after a spay/castration so that stitches don’t get aggravated by hay. I also use if bun is poorly and is sleeping with me. I put one on the kitchen counter when I am clipping nails and grooming. I also use to wrap up a bun if they are going to the vet in my arms and not a pet carrier. They are expensive but very handy indeed!

Sterile Wipes
These are good for putting saline/salt water on and wiping eyes. Or use to clean a wound.

Hibiscrub
Antiseptic if they have an open wound or to clean stitches.

Olbas Oil
Great for when your bun has breathing problems. Helps to clear the airway.
I put a drop on each corner of the Puppy pad when my buns are ill. You can also put some on a tissue and leave in the hutch. Never apply the oil directly on to your rabbit.

Critical Care Formula
Emergency support for collapsed rabbits. When they can’t move or eat use this to get water, nutrients and bacteria into them. Syringe required.

Supreme Recovery /Oxbow Critical Care
Soft food for rabbits who are not eating. This can be syringed or fed on a small flat bowl. I use a soy sauce dipping bowl.

Mouse water bottles
I like to use small bottles of water when I am giving probiotics. It is easier to keep fresh and monitor how much they drink.

Baytril – available on prescription from your vet
Bog standard bunny antibiotics. Use on advice from vet for infections.

Bisolvon – available on prescription from your vet
Use this to clear up thick snotty noses. Usually associated with Pasturella virus.

Infacol (drug Simethicone)
Use this if you suspect you bunny has wind. It’s a pain relief med for babies with Colic.

Cornflour
To help stop wounds bleeding.

Cotton wool pads
To help clean areas.

Rearguard
In case of emergency flystrike.

My t'pence worth is that our vet said no veg till 16 weeks old.

The rest is :thumb:

Thanks - I will add no veg until 16 weeks old.

Wow, very informative. Can you check on the only a few pellet thing at this young age? My babies were being fed quite a strict only a few pellets and lots of hay diet and even though their poo was a lovely colour and texture, they were starting to look thin and scrawny. I've just uped their pellet intake because of this.

OK, thanks.

Can anyone else shed any light on the pellets for young buns?

Yeah ted got hers when she was 9 weeks. couldn't take any risks.

wow - looks good, very nice of you writing it all down like that for your friend

bunny babe said:

Thanks - I will add no veg until 16 weeks old.

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I think it depends what they're used to. Alfie's mum ate veg while she was nursing the babies and Alfie himself was also given veg from a young age so he was used to it. But, if in doubt or they don't know the rabbit's history then best to leave the veg till a bit later.